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MM 135 Wiring

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  • HAWK
    replied
    JWELD,

    You won't have to keep swapping liners and wire sizes with all those machines. However, I must say I like the 12RC suitcase powered by the Trailblazer. I run .035" non copper coat wire in the 44lbs spools and weld from 1/8" up to 1' on a regular basis. .045" or even 1/16" up to 5/64" flux cored wires are really handy on the heavier stuff, but the .035 " will do it if you are careful with you interpass temp and multi-pass sequence.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    The Lincoln 100 I used at my shop in Phoenix was a real little workhorse and paid for itself many times over each month, so no one should underestimate the use of the 115V units. I plan to start tommorow with my new MM 135 building benches and shelves.
    Again, I will set up as follow: MM Vintage solid wire .035,
    MM Chalenger 172 .024 solid wire, new MM 135 .030 Flux wire.
    I think this gives good coverage. Will use the MM 135 also off the Trailblazer until I can afford a "Suitcase.

    Any coments or suggestions??

    Leave a comment:


  • HAWK
    replied
    Canuck,

    I am not advocating the MM135 can take the place of its larger cousin like the MM210, but you will be surprised what it can do with a little creativity. I usually stay with 1/8" and under with these 120VAC MIGs, but occasionally they are all I have access to and the creativity begins to flow. In addition to things we've talked about you might try a 250 degree preheat. You will flat be amazed at how much easier your puddle will flow. It can be a lot of trouble working the 1/4" joints with this machine and I would not use it for trailer hitches or anything that may endanger human or animal life, but they are fun little machines.

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  • Canuck
    replied
    Thanks Hawk I am running 0.30 wire and 75/25 gas. I am going to give it a try on monday and the the rest of the week and will get back to you maybe even post some pics!

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  • HAWK
    replied
    Canuck,

    I would use .030" bare wire with 75%argon/25%CO2 shield. If you are using 100%CO2 that's fine too. It will give a bit better penetration and additional spatter. You can do any joint design you want. The fillets will take more time and attention to detail. If possible groove your base material as well as beveling your plate on the fillets. Just run a grinding wheel on its edge to get your groove. Let me know how it works out.

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  • Canuck
    replied
    Thanks Hawk for the reply I'm going to give it a try as soon as I can. My friends won't beleve me when I say that I can weld 1/4 plate with my little 135! Also what wire size do you recomend and is it possible to do any other joints such as inside corner with a fillet weld. Once again thanks for the great post!

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  • HAWK
    replied
    Originally posted by Canuck
    This is a question for Hawk. I have Hobart 135 MIG and would like to know how you set up the joint on the 1/4 plate to get a sound weld. I have never gone over the rated 3/16 capacity but have wondered if it was capable of 1/4.
    Canuck,

    Good Question!

    Here is a copy of a post I wrote a while back on 1/4" plate and the MM135. I hope you don't think I am taking a short cut here,but this is exactly what I would write again. Thanks for asking and good luck.


    DOUBLE V-GROOVE BUTT JOINT

    Hard core penetration on 1/4" butt joint with the MM135:
    Bevel both sides of each plate to 45 degree angle. Butt the plates with 3/32" open root. Tack into position every 1" on both side. Alternate the tacks: Tack side A beginning at the back edge. Tack side B beginning 1/2" from the back edge. This will help prevent warpage. Weld a 2" root pass on side A near the middle of the butt length. Weld a 2" root pass on side B near each end of the weld length. Alternate root passes in 2" intervals on Side A, then Side B. Burn this first pass in as hot as possible with a good crisp "crackling" arc. Then proceed to a slight weave as pj suggested. The hold 1-2 seconds on each side of the weave is to assure filling in the under cut on each side of the weave. When making the weave hold on the sides at pj stated and pick up speed across the center of the weld. Otherwise you will form a blob or some excessive build up of weld in the center over your root pass. Make your first weave 3/8" or so in width. Again do so on both sides. Alternate sides and length increments if you notice heat warpage being a problem. You can make a second weave pass if you deem necessary. If so, make the second weave 5/8" or so. Do this properly and I doubt a vise and 20 oz ball peen hammer will do any damage. You must burn in the root (first pass) with out much side to side for the initial penetration to be effective. It sounds long and drawn out, but is not really. Practice and let us know how it goes.


    __________________

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Hawk:
    I had a Lincoln 100 in my tranmission shop and machine shop plus the Vintage, MM172, and the little 115V got the most usage. I am sure the MM135 will get the same use.

    Thanks for everyone's input.

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  • Canuck
    replied
    This is a question for Hawk. I have Hobart 135 MIG and would like to know how you set up the joint on the 1/4 plate to get a sound weld. I have never gone over the rated 3/16 capacity but have wondered if it was capable of 1/4.

    Leave a comment:


  • hankj
    replied
    Factory cord

    JWELD,

    I second the HAWK. The MM135 is the MIG I have, and I started from know-nothing-never -welded to today (whatever that means) with it. In seven months, we have become well acquainted - approx. 30# of .030, and I run it every chance I get. It's usually plugged into a 50' 10/3 cord, but on occasion I've run it on 100' of 10/3 with no noticeable degradation. I have not modified the machine in any way.

    You'll love this little guy - it's VERY forgiving, and it tells you very quickly by the way the arc sounds if you're doing wrong.

    Enjoy.

    Be well,

    hankj

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  • HAWK
    replied
    JWELD,

    Here is an easy effective way to get the job done right. I do work for a client that owns a Lincoln SP135+ similar to the MM135. I run it from my Trailblazer quite often on 16 gauge work in his warehouse. I use the factory cord and plug on the machine and plug into a 50' 10 gauge Yellow Jacket exrtension cord. This way you have compensated for any current drop due to the extension cord length. The machine works great and I have welded 1/4" mild steel with ER70S-6 and 75Ar/25CO2 after properly preparing the joint. I do not see a need to change the factory cord.

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  • mecharm1
    replied
    I took my mm175 to my local Authorized miller repair guy and he changed cords for me, for a nominal charge. i now have 25 feet or so coming out of my machine of 10/3 wire with the plug end that i needed , a 110 machine i would imagine u could go a little bigger cord than came with it and make it longer as well very handy to reach around the garage with out an extention.....

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  • GTA/SPEC
    replied
    If you want to run an extention of 20 ft or more, it would be a good idea. Unfortunatly, the 115v goes directly onto the PC board via 1/4" spade terminals. I modified my MM130XP so that it had a male 115v connector on the rear panel of the machine, and 10ga connecting it all. Just be cafeful, install a better strain relief for the new cord, and make sure your hot and neutral polarity dont get switched. Remember white to wide on the male plug. (white is neutral, black is hot)

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  • arcdawg
    replied
    j, dont do it !!! im sure that you will void the warrenty and from what you will gain its not worth it

    i also think that when you do that you will exceed the duty cycle and the power output of the machine

    good luck with a great little machine !!!

    brian

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest started a topic MM 135 Wiring

    MM 135 Wiring

    Received a new MM135 today, Question. The unit comes with a 14 Gauge wire which plugs into the power supply (115V), is there any advantage changing this to say a 10 guage? I intend to run this off my trailblazer
    Thanks
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