Stick Welds

[JWELD]

Not too much on the board ref. stick weld as I guess everyone except me are pretty well qualified.
However, how does one "pipe" weld or form a weld that (etc: liquid holding tanks) which will hold "liquid/pressure"???
Mine have always leaked/porous.

Thanks Again

[scott]

jweld... what material are you welding what machine are you using and what rod type knowing these parameters you may get a few responces

[JWELD]

Steel pipe, Trailblazer 280nt and 6010, any suggestions on changes

[Canuck]

If your welding a section of pipe that has a thick wall you might want to use 6010 for your first pass and then cap it with 7018 this method can make some nice looking joints. Also when using 6010 make sure to keep a rather short arc and use lots of rod movement.

[HAWK]

JWELD,

On steel pressure welds I use 6010 rods for the root, hot pass (fill) and cap. Pay attention to get complete penetration by working the rod in and out of the puddle. If each time you stop the weld you have a key hole in the steel, you are getting complete penetration.

[aametalmaster]

Lots of practice is the biggest thing in pipes not leaking. I used to weld hydraulic lines on the high pressure side 3200#+ with 7018 single pass there was not enough room on the little blocks the pipe was welded to for 2 passes so the first one had to count. Make sure your steel is clean and oil free also..Bob

[HAWK]

Bob,

Were you working with 1" or under in diameter? I used to do a a lot of 1" API5L--- methane piping. The first was pass was your root and fill with a 6010. I had to run a cap on every joint, but there was no room for a hot pass fill. The joints were 3/32" open root with 37.5 degree bevels.

[scott]

jweld this is my .02 cents pipe bevel should be around 35 degees landing may vary on diameter of pipe some guys want to land a jumbo jet on it( try the thickness of a nickel)try to set your gap 1/16+-1/32 thats probaly fairly tight...watch your hi low try not to have any.. for bead rod go with 5p+ some guys say it wont push ...i asure you it will.. try to keep a small key hole some times i have no key hole and just soak it in.. at this point of the game you should not see a lot of sparks from the outside nor any rooster tails from the arc ..(the arc is buried in the pipe)when beading, rod angle should be staight... of coarse this is after youve have ground out yor tacs..now wire brush your bead and grind off the hi spots for hot pass i switch to an 8010 or 7010 although lots of guys or gals use 6010 turn up the heat to burn out the wagon tracks try up 20 or more on your box or machine you can whip or drag slightly side to side but WET the sides of the bevel use rod angle at the 3 oclock position to push puddle back if using side to side.. at 5 oclock turn heat down 5 comlete bottom ..do a fill pass if necesary then turn your heat back to bead heat and try capping jweld this is for down hand welding and my disclaimer..if you ask 5 pipe welders how to weld you will get 25 different anwsers on any given day.. ps always 3 pass min

[aametalmaster]

Hawk, The pipe I welded was 1 1/2" seamless. Originally it was tig welded but years of use and vibration caused leaks. The only option I had was to grind out all the old weld, cook out the oil and reweld. I didn't have a tig to use in our maint dept. Happy welding..Bob

[JWELD]

What is a "KEYHOLE??

[HAWK]

scott,

Amen to 5 pipe welders and 5 answers. If you don't do it, it is hard to understand.

JWELD,

A keyhole is the opening left at the end of the weld. It shows you 100% penetration because you are just hot enough and running fast enough to be burning in and slighty through the base metal at the root. It looks lile a little round hole you can stick the rod through. When starting a new rod strike the arc in front of the key hole and back up into it to continue welding. This will prevent cold lapping (poor fusion).

[revpol]

Hawk: Actually if you feather your stops you should restart your next rod on the previous weld then you are coming into the keyhole hot and this prevents cold laps or lack of fusion. By starting your arc in front and coming back into the weld you take the chance of loosing the keyhole or leaving slag entraments at the tie-in. After the root is in then just knock the high spots off and fill and cap the joint. revpol

[HAWK]

revpol,

Makes perfect sense. I was taught the other way. We were not allowed any grinding or way knocking off the high spots before proceeding with the fill and cap.