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Dynasty 200DX-FINALLY!

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  • HAWK
    replied
    Hey Guys,

    H80N has some computer problems and is unable to post pictures for the present time. Here are his torch pictures he described earlier in this post.
    Attached Files

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  • HAWK
    replied
    Carl,

    See attached picture. Small, light, flexible, 200 amps all day long. Will cary addtional amperage no problem.
    Attached Files

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  • HAWK
    replied
    Carl,

    The stiffness I am referring to is the torch power cable, not the amptrol cable. As far a a water cooled torch goes: Once you use one you will never go back to air cooled, even for low amperage welding. It is hard to explain ; but it has to do with the ergonomics, comfort and the ability to reduce tungsten erosion. If you spend 45 minutes or more at a session, you will really appreciate the Miller Diamond Back DB20 water cooled torch and either the Coolmate 3 or 4.

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  • Carl
    replied
    Dynasty 200DX hand control

    I've read up on the reply's, and I want to make sure I've got this straight. A couple of people have said the cable feels to "Stiff" for the hand control, maybe I have something different than everyone else? The cable for the control is very small and flexible, it's the rotary knob I have a problem with. I didn't know there was differences between them, as well. The one I got rotates essentially W.E., I gotta imagine that with as hard as it is to rotate this one with any kind of accuracy and feel, One that operates N.S. would have to be one of the most aggravating ways of controlling. MILLER, listen up, $3000 for this unit that has 2 hand controls that nobody is raving about, what will it take to make a hand control that is a mini version of the foot pedal, it just seems natural. So much so that I'll be looking into making one myself, wanna buy the patent from me?! As far as the reply's on the torch itself, I was skeptical at first, as it feels really rinky-dink, but a friend that used it here really liked it as well. I don't know that I'll ever need a water cooled torch, the few people I've querried about them say that I won't ever need it, so we'll see. Until i get the foot control, or work out my own hand control, This situation is like owning a Lamborgini that is sitting on 13" rims with Firestone tires. It works, but you sure can't use all the car can give!!!

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  • H80N
    replied
    sorry pic did not go first time have some graphics problems will try to send after sorted

    Heiti

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  • H80N
    replied
    on aircooled.... here is a pic of three of mine... look similar but behave differently...
    from right to left

    little Italian TKSR9V.. very supple and easy to use but light duty

    Lincoln LA9... Heavier duty but much stiffer action (from my Squarwave Tig 175)

    WP-26V... 200amp.. but clunky to use (use it on the Trailblazer 301G for mobile)


    there are as many variations of these as there are people that make them... both #9 torches look about the same but are totally different in feel and useable amperage range... the big #26 was included just to show the upper range of the aircooled family.. on the whole the watercooled is a better way to go... and as I have said before.. the #20 series covers about the most useability with a good feel... at least for me..
    hope this helps

    Heiti

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  • H80N
    replied
    HAWK
    think we are in agreement here... the #20 is my favorite all around torch and while the little Italian #9 that I have is about as small and easy to use... it is not capable of the same type of work..
    they rate it at 125amps %100 duty cycle... which to put it politely is somewhat optimistic... this one goes on the little toaster inverter.. and rarely sees over 35 amps... it gets plenty warm at that... suspect if I put it on a machine that could give it 125amps for an extended period that it would melt down and kentucky fry my hand in short order....... while a #20 can go at 200amps all day no sweat....
    take care
    Heiti

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  • HAWK
    replied
    DEA,

    Here is a picture of the #20 water cooled torch. The old #9 I am thinking of has a 8" or 9" plastic handle and is hard to manipulate. There is a new #9 series that has a about a 7" body length, 2 7/16" head length with the same medium back cap as shown with the #20, is air cooled and rated at 125 amps. Is this the torch you have? I am running 1/4" wall x 2" x 2" square tube to 1/4" 3003 plate fillets with 75%helium/25%argon. It is a large surface area and takes a lot of heat (12 square feet or more of plate surface). The material puddles easily at 200 amps, 215HZ, 75% balance. I have to back off the amptrol pretty quick once I get going or it will puddle out. The machine has more to go. I am NOT preheating or thermally insulating the weldment. I will be testing some 3/8" material this weekend. I think that will the limit with this set up for a single pass weld. Using 100% argon I can do 1/4" plate butt, lap, and corner welds with a little patience. The 1/4" fillet just takes too much heat. That is where I switch to the He/Ar mix.
    Attached Files

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  • H80N
    replied
    DEA
    for what it is worth... the torch numbers are a carryover from the old Linde/Weldcraft standards and describe a general class of torch..
    so one manufacturer can build one that is larger than another one may.. for instance... I have an Italian version #9 (Arc-One TKSR9V) that is as dainty as some of the microtorches.. While some of the other manufacturers make the same class of torch with a larger handle, better heatshielding.. more robust cable assy... etc... yet both use the same consumables... but if you put them next to each other you would think that they were totally different animals...
    And if you go to the difference between an aircooled and watercooled... like #9 vs #20 both use the same consumables... but the aircooled tend to be bulkier because of the extra heatsheilding that they require as opposed to the watercooled where the water does the work and can be slimmer and easier to handle....
    hope this makes sense
    Heiti

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  • orgalmeister
    replied
    Carl

    Congrats on your new Dynasty. the hand control does take some getting used to. I use the Miller N/S hand control on my TA185 exclusively. I haven't even used the foot pedal yet. On the hand controller, I mount it upside down, hold the torch like a pencil and use my little finger for support while ramping up. It took some time to get this method to work me but well worth it.

    Steve

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  • DEA
    replied
    Hawk
    Being new to the "sport" I'm still learning these things.
    I should have thought the #9 and #20 use the same consumables they would be the same size or the #9 smaller.
    The #9 is smaller than the #17 that comes in the kit.I mainly bought it for when I get into tubing someday.So the 20 is smaller than the 9?
    How thick of metal are you doing with your DX200? You mentioned cylinder heads or walls.
    DEA

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  • HAWK
    replied
    DEA,

    The #20 is a smaller more ergonomic torch. It is a 200 amp water cooled torch with extremely flexible leads. It comes standard with a long and medium back cap. Put 3/32" tungsten in this torch and weld anywhere you want including cylinder walls. Don't let the rating fool you. It will handle 300 amps no problem. Just run a good closed loop cooling system. The #9 is considerably longer and and bulkier.

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  • DEA
    replied
    The torch cable is just as bad
    I'd like to try the super flex cable by C-K.I think thats who makes them
    I did pick up a #9 torch on E Bay.If I had known what I was doing I would have gotten a #20 Aren't they about the same size?
    Also found a new T/A foot controller on there also. And rewired it to a Miler 14 pin connector.With the help of other board members.
    Mainly one whoe didn't need the Miller con. He has a T/A

    Leave a comment:


  • HAWK
    replied
    I have the HD foot pedal and learned with a foot pedal. I picked up a RCCS-14 hand control at a "road side" sale. It was hard to catch the feel, but I really like it doing mobile work. Since it is a bummer to put one hand on the torch, one on the pedal, and try to float filler by mouth without getting the $%^& knocked out of you, the hand control is pretty handy! They both have their place. If you don't like the stiff cable on the controller, what do you think of the typical air cooled torch cable?

    I finally made the plunge to a #20 water cooled torch and a cooler. It is a smaller, lighter, more flexible set up. Try it and you won't go back to an air cooled torch of any brand. It is a real plus when welding above 140 amps for extended periods too!

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  • DEA
    replied
    I agree
    The hand control is the pits.
    The cable is to stiff feels like solid copper 14-2 wire.I had and still have a hard time getting comfortable with the hand control.
    However I did use the east-west(wheel)on a miller machine at a night class I was taking.It also had the stiff cable though.And liked it a lot better.I wish that I would have gotten it instead of the north-south
    Doug

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