SMAW Fillet Welds?!!!
One thing I do that might help if the actual size of the fillet weld is important is mark out where the toes of the weld should come to with soapstone then just run a grinder or zip cut line just inside the soapstone mark so you know you just have to cover that grinder line and your good. And ya about the dig feature. It helps if your machine has it. But it would be better to know how to weld it without any features. I find a lot of times you get old machines with on off and heat settings and that's it. And about the convex and concave beads. I've never been asked to do that in 8 years. But I guess there could be times for cosmetic reasons. Good luck.
-
I work with the same guys for years who do not know what they are. Then again our Foreman once said 90% of the welders at work are junk-yard welders and it is probably true. I don't think that is unique to our shipyard per se, but simply because most welders care only about the pay and not about improving their skills.Originally posted by ryanjones2150 View Post
Never be afraid to speak up. Today there is a better knowledge of electricity and welding manufacturers such as Miller are providing more and more features to control that arc. There is no substitute for practice, but some of the features can make a significant difference in weld quality.Leave a comment:
-
Lots of good info here..
worth your while to do some studying...Leave a comment:
-
SMAW Fillet Welds?!!!
Months? Does there happen to be any other knobs you've been staring at and don't know what they do?Leave a comment:
-
I was asked to do it in horizontal position and im now getting the hang of it. and thanks so much on the concave-convex info. ive wondering for months what the dig nob on the welders was for and now I know thanks.Leave a comment:
-
What positions are you being asked to weld?
At our work, we are generally allowed to over-weld fillets if there are gaps in the fit-up and for visual inspection purposes like added weld for undercut, and lack of fusion. Sometimes though we are NOT allowed to overweld fillets welds if we are welding weight critical ships (mostly Frigates). As a side note, no butt-welds can be over-reinforced by 3/32 of an inch.
As for placing weld beads, whether it be with stick, mig, pulse or tig; I have always found 1 in; 2 over to look the best. In fact, 95% of the welds I make, though not required to be more than 1 pass, I do in 3 passes. I just do not like the way 2 pass welds look. Weaving beyond perimeters does not look very good either so always run stringers...
As for achieving the concave and convex welds, that can be done using the Dig feature if your inverter has one. Dial it down for a more pronounce "humped up weld" (less penetration) and up for a "flatter weld" for more penetration...just be careful about how much undercut you are getting. You can also use a bit of weaving to get the weld to flatten out, or no weave to hump it up a bit. And never forget this too...you can always use a grinder to form a partial groove so that your weld has something to flow into and be at the right height and smoothness when you are done.
As a side note form a old welder to a newer one, your instructor is right in that weld shape is important. It helps primer and paint adhere better, but in my line of work where the ships that we build could potentially see battle, weld shape (smooth concave) helps dissipate the reverberations of an explosion. For the 300 sailors aboard, weld shape matters!Leave a comment:
-
SMAW Fillet Welds?!!!
im currently taking a welding course at my local welding school and I am stuck on the assignment the instructor has given me, which is fillet weld t-joint with a 1/8" electrode. what is the best way to achieve a specified size weld. im having trouble getting the multi-pass fillet welds the right size. also he mentioned that there are occasions in the field that they will call for either a convex or concave type weld. could anyone tell me how convex and concave welds are produced when stick welding?
Leave a comment: