Wheels,
Congrats on the new Dynasty!
A couple of hints on machine set up. The unit was designed with variable frequency to fine tune arc width. The higher the freq, the narrower the bead profile and more root penetration. As a rule of thumb, set your freq based on joint design. For example, 3/16 outside corner would run great on 90-110 on the freq cause it would tie in both edges without having to move the torch back and forth or by stepping up the amperage to get the arc to go wider if the freq was set too high. Some people like the wide open freq at 250 all the time but that wasn't the original intent. At that high freq, you would have to really have to give it some amperage to compensate for the narrow bead profile. Now with thinner material, upping the freq is cool or doing tight included angles where you need a tight arc to keep it from slapping the sides of the base metal is a great place to run it 220-250. A great starting point for most stuff is around 110-150. And a Balance of 70-80 depending on base metal quality. Try to stay above 60 as much below that will cause the tungsten to ball up or erode quicker. The only times I really run the freq way up is thight spots, welding something that I need a finer edge weld like in Alum heads near the valve seat area is a great area where I don't want larger beads. You'll have to play with it to find your sweet spot. That machine also likes the 5356 filler. It will do well with all fillers but for some reason the 5356 shines.
Have fun.
Andy
Congrats on the new Dynasty!
A couple of hints on machine set up. The unit was designed with variable frequency to fine tune arc width. The higher the freq, the narrower the bead profile and more root penetration. As a rule of thumb, set your freq based on joint design. For example, 3/16 outside corner would run great on 90-110 on the freq cause it would tie in both edges without having to move the torch back and forth or by stepping up the amperage to get the arc to go wider if the freq was set too high. Some people like the wide open freq at 250 all the time but that wasn't the original intent. At that high freq, you would have to really have to give it some amperage to compensate for the narrow bead profile. Now with thinner material, upping the freq is cool or doing tight included angles where you need a tight arc to keep it from slapping the sides of the base metal is a great place to run it 220-250. A great starting point for most stuff is around 110-150. And a Balance of 70-80 depending on base metal quality. Try to stay above 60 as much below that will cause the tungsten to ball up or erode quicker. The only times I really run the freq way up is thight spots, welding something that I need a finer edge weld like in Alum heads near the valve seat area is a great area where I don't want larger beads. You'll have to play with it to find your sweet spot. That machine also likes the 5356 filler. It will do well with all fillers but for some reason the 5356 shines.
Have fun.
Andy
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