Aluminum/Dynasty

[ASKANDY]

Sounds like a fine idea. Also look at the end of the fitting on the regulator that goes in the tank and you'll see a wear line where it seats to the tank, see if there is any shiney or areas where it looks like it didn't seat properly.

A-

[Wheels]

Andy

This is the same tank I used just yesterday with the Regency200. Had no leaks, As amatter of fact it will hold pressure over night.I think what I should do is hook the Dynasty up to the Regency regulator and see if the problem goes away.

[ASKANDY]

If I understand you correctly, the high pres side drops quick after shutting the valve?
If this is so, it does sound like there is a leak at the tank where the regulator is screwed in. Could be a tank defect or something is impeding the seal of the fitting. In either case, you may want to spray soapy water at the fittings.

Andy

[Wheels]

Andy

I dont know if there is a problem or not , but whed I turn the gas off at the tank the pressure drops off pretty quick . I have the contractors kit installed and all conections tight. Since I noticed this I turn it off if i am not welding for even a short time . Question is am I going to loose argon if I don`t? I hear no leaks and thought I`d ask before spraying on any kind of leak detector.

[ASKANDY]

Wheels,
Congrats on the new Dynasty!

A couple of hints on machine set up. The unit was designed with variable frequency to fine tune arc width. The higher the freq, the narrower the bead profile and more root penetration. As a rule of thumb, set your freq based on joint design. For example, 3/16 outside corner would run great on 90-110 on the freq cause it would tie in both edges without having to move the torch back and forth or by stepping up the amperage to get the arc to go wider if the freq was set too high. Some people like the wide open freq at 250 all the time but that wasn't the original intent. At that high freq, you would have to really have to give it some amperage to compensate for the narrow bead profile. Now with thinner material, upping the freq is cool or doing tight included angles where you need a tight arc to keep it from slapping the sides of the base metal is a great place to run it 220-250. A great starting point for most stuff is around 110-150. And a Balance of 70-80 depending on base metal quality. Try to stay above 60 as much below that will cause the tungsten to ball up or erode quicker. The only times I really run the freq way up is thight spots, welding something that I need a finer edge weld like in Alum heads near the valve seat area is a great area where I don't want larger beads. You'll have to play with it to find your sweet spot. That machine also likes the 5356 filler. It will do well with all fillers but for some reason the 5356 shines.

Have fun.

Andy

[Wheels]

Bob.....Bet you I have done something you havent thought of yet. Took a break to feed the face, turned the gas off, came back and proceeded to melt my tungsten because I forgot to turn it back on.

Little bit of Homer Simpson in all of us I guess.

[Bob Sigmon]

Wheels,

I have found, in my very limited experience, that I have to back the foot pedal off quite a bit by the end of a run. The heat really builds up in the aluminum and the bead will widen and flatten out pretty quick.

I still really suck at welding aluminum but I have found the Dynasty very easy to setup and control. Any problems rest solely on my shoulders.

Bob Sigmon

[Wheels]

Yes I was running too hot, I just couldn`t get it in my pea-brain that a toaster-sized machine has the punch this one does! I`ll take Hawks advice and go down with the heat and up with h/z this evening.

Mike

[arcdawg]

wheels

from you pic it looks like your to hot, i am not very familiar with the dynasty but i would heed all of hawks advise and then i would watch your heat input, so you get the stacked dime effect, brian

[Bob Sigmon]

Now that would really look great with a nice stacked nickel bead!

Bob Sigmon

[Wheels]

One more. A shot out the back of an 18 foot dump bed . This is a liner installation finished up last week.

[Wheels]

Should I have tigged this?

[HAWK]

Wheels,

Well you got it posted and we all make mistakes. I figured you ran a lot of AL mig from your bead profile. This is not a bad thing! Sometimes I pour it in like you did this one and sometimes I stack the dimes or go wider and stack nickles. It just depends on the application. Once again it looks like 2 hours has really been kind to you with the Dynasty. I believe you will like the way it responds to the increased arc frequency. Let me know. The ceriated will weld better and it is not radioactive when you grind it as is the thoriated. It also works better when you have to lower the EN balance. If you are running at 65 or better the thoriated does fine. Somewhere around 50 on the EN and you will really appreciate the ceriated. I hope don't have such nasty alloys as to need the 50% EN, but it happens.

[Wheels]

Yea Hawk I meant to say the plate was 5454. Left over from a dump bed floor job . I always have scrap aluminum around here. That is a good thing for practice. I ordered some ceriated over the weekend. This flowed so well it is hard to believe the ceriated could be any better,. It`s kinda funny ,I do a lot of mig al. and am always concentrating on starts, now i have to work on my stops!
I could also use some practice on posting pictures, I screw-up enough to keep everyone entertained for days.

Thanks Mike

[HAWK]

Mike,

Pick up some 3/32" ceriated tungsten. Grind to a point and put a flat on the end. Kick your arc frequency up to 150HZ. Give the torch a little more counterclockwise movement as you advance it. You might even turn the amperage down by 5-12 amps with the frequency kicked up. Try it. I think you will be surprised. Keep us posted. If you don't need the 5454 alloy, try 4043 for the smooth flow. Although the 5454 fell in nicely.