ICE-55C Torch issues

[shadyluke]

I have a Miller 2050 Plasma cutter that started acting on me tonight. The symptom is that I can pull the trigger and no pilot arc. If I smack it with my knuckle once while holding the trigger then she sparks and functions.

I'm running that same setup I have since I bought the machine. I bought it brand new as a left over in Jan 2014 and very rarely use it. Although, it has been getting a workout this week. I have enough air and I'm running a dryer. I put in new consumables and still the same. Once in a while it will work as it should.

Looking for some advice on what to try to get going again. I guess one thing to note is the dryer has been pulling a lot more air out this week than normal (I use it with all my air tools).

Thanks in advance,
Luke

[jimcolt]

That is a Blowback style torch that relies on a spring loaded electrode moving back away from the nozzle (as soon as air flow starts) to ionize the cutting air and start the plasma process. Here are the things to look at if it requires a "whack" to get it to fire!
- Consumables are worn past their useful life. Electrodes and nozzle wear first. The swirl ring wears over time....and it acts as a bearing for the electrode to slide in. Try replacing the swirl ring.
-Overtightened retaining cap. Too tight and it distorts the swirl ring and inhibits electrode movement.
- Worn out retaining cap.
- Torch plunger pitted. This is the silver contact that makes electrical contact to the electrode. If it is dirty or pitted (caused by dirt/grease in the torch) then it will make poor contact and cause misfiring.
-Low air pressure, water in air. Inlet must be between 90 and 120 psi when air is flowing. Set the front panel cut flow LEDs until they are satisfied....do this with air flowing at the torch.
-Make sure you are using genuine Miller consumables. Aftermarket copies have poor tolerances and can cause torch damage.

Jim Colt

[Sberry]

I have been fussing with mine, is all broke and beat but it works. I was never all that impressed with it to begin with. I liked the cut on my old Linc better but the torch and its safety were nothing to write home about either.

[shadyluke]

That is a Blowback style torch that relies on a spring loaded electrode moving back away from the nozzle (as soon as air flow starts) to ionize the cutting air and start the plasma process. Here are the things to look at if it requires a "whack" to get it to fire!
- Consumables are worn past their useful life. Electrodes and nozzle wear first. The swirl ring wears over time....and it acts as a bearing for the electrode to slide in. Try replacing the swirl ring.
-Overtightened retaining cap. Too tight and it distorts the swirl ring and inhibits electrode movement.
- Worn out retaining cap.
- Torch plunger pitted. This is the silver contact that makes electrical contact to the electrode. If it is dirty or pitted (caused by dirt/grease in the torch) then it will make poor contact and cause misfiring.
-Low air pressure, water in air. Inlet must be between 90 and 120 psi when air is flowing. Set the front panel cut flow LEDs until they are satisfied....do this with air flowing at the torch.
-Make sure you are using genuine Miller consumables. Aftermarket copies have poor tolerances and can cause torch damage.

Jim Colt

Sorry I haven't gotten back to this, the fall was crazy in the shop. Once again Jim you hit the nail on the head. It seems I was over tightening the retaining cap. I haven't had any issues since (knock on wood). However, I do have a pitted plunger. I have been searching the interwebs for the plunger kit 202932 as listed in the manual and can't seem to find it. Guess I am going to call my local dealer.

I have always used genuine miller consumables. I'm hoping to find a deal on a machine torch for this thing as I feel a plasma table could really benefit my shop.