Millermatic 35 no arc!

[Popscott]

Hello, this is my first post. I have been reading in the forum here and am intrigued by the wealth of knowledge. I am hoping to tap into some of that to get my welder going. Saturday I went to a yard sale and picked up a Millermatic 35 for $40. Serial # HJ 13331, Guy said it had no spark. Brought it home and plugged her in and of course no spark but the fan and drive motor are working. I noticed the main contact relay points were badly worn all the way down to the copper. Can I just jumper the contact to see if it welds. I checked the output of the main rectifier with a VOM and read 14VDC. Should it be more like 30VDC? 240 VAC at the switch, wire feeds fine.The POS and Neg plugs on the front panel show no voltage. But the yellow taps show the same 14 vdc.I think at one point I was getting 1.5 vdc at the torch tip and work. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! S[ATTACH]35395[/ATTACH][ATTACH]35396[/ATTACH]ome pics included

Do you have a diagram?

HJ 13331... there usually is 6 numbers.

[Popscott]

HJ 13331 s/n needs 6 numbers.

Do you have a diagram?

[Popscott]

When triggered and contactor pulled in.....
There should DC (18 to 32) as shown in pics.... Be aware there may be voltage present even with machine unplugged. This should adjust with different yellow front plugs. The front yellow plugs will be AC voltages (14 to 24) common being #21 in diode pigtail in rectifier. (remember to be sure no voltage present with machine unplugged) The AC voltage will adjust to the rectifier when measuring between both seperate rectifier diode pigtails. If AC present there and DC present as in pic, then unplug machine (check for voltage) and ohm between front red plug and the positive metal plate on the rectifier for the stabilizer. It should be low ohmage. Do you have a wiring diagram?

[Popscott]

When triggered and contactor pulled in.....
There should DC (18 to 32) as shown in pics.... Be aware there may be voltage present even with machine unplugged. This should adjust with different yellow front plugs. The front yellow plugs will be AC voltages (14 to 24) common being #21 in diode pigtail in rectifier. (remember to be sure no voltage present with machine unplugged) The AC voltage will adjust to the rectifier when measuring between both seperate rectifier diode pigtails. If AC present there and DC present as in pic, then unplug machine (check for voltage) and ohm between front red plug and the positive metal plate on the rectifier for the stabilizer. It should be low ohmage. Do you have a wiring diagram?

[ryanjones2150]

Millermatic 35 no arc!

Well, at the very least, you should be able to your money back at the scrap yard. I have no idea where to start, but I hope you get it going.

[Popscott]

HJ 13331...usually 6 numbers are in millers s/n's. It does not recognize that s/n.

Don’t do this unless you are comfortable around electricity and take precautionary measures. Please!

The yellow taps on front will be an AC voltage, not DC. The contactor is pulling in, I assume, or the motor would not run. If you are reading the rectifier correctly, (see picture) which is top metal and bottom metal there should be 18 to 32 volts DC and will adjust by swapping the yellow plug around on front. (When triggered)

When tiggered and contactor pulled in.

If there IS a DC voltage (18 to 32) there on the rectifier metal and not on your front red and black output terminals, then you need to unplug the machine and measure ohms from the red terminal back through the stabilizer (big wire # 24) which will be the positive on the rectifier. It should be a low ohmage. If it is an open circuit the stabilizer is bad. The black term. Should measure 0 ohms to the negative rectfier side

If there IS NOT DC voltage (18 to 32) on the rectifier metal, then you need to go back the other direction and pick up what is going on with the AC transformer and contactor. Unplug the machine and get an insulated alligator clip jumper and make a temporary connection on the # 21 wire , which will be a big wire from transformer leg to one of the other non metal connection inside the rectifier (diode pigtail).......Insulate all well and then when turned on and triggered you should pick up AC voltages (14 through 24) on the front yellow plugs, the # 22 on the contactor, and #23 on the other side of contactor right back to the other rectifier non metal diode pigtail.

You could jumper the contactor for test purposes only with a decent sized wire. You could jumper the stabilizer for test purposes also, but it will weld poorly.

[Chdhpkns]

Hello, this is my first post. I have been reading in the forum here and am intrigued by the wealth of knowledge. I am hoping to tap into some of that to get my welder going. Saturday I went to a yard sale and picked up a Millermatic 35 for $40. Serial # HJ 13331, Guy said it had no spark. Brought it home and plugged her in and of course no spark but the fan and drive motor are working. I noticed the main contact relay points were badly worn all the way down to the copper. Can I just jumper the contact to see if it welds. I checked the output of the main rectifier with a VOM and read 14VDC. Should it be more like 30VDC? 240 VAC at the switch, wire feeds fine.The POS and Neg plugs on the front panel show no voltage. But the yellow taps show the same 14 vdc.I think at one point I was getting 1.5 vdc at the torch tip and work. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Some pics included