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Question on welding cast iron

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  • monte55
    replied
    No I didn't. Turns out the guy he got it from had another one and let him have it.

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    Question on welding cast iron

    Did you ever fix that thing?

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  • monte55
    replied
    [Thanks to all that replied

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  • monte55
    replied
    Originally posted by ja baudin View Post
    Monte, good to see you back on the forum. Thought we had lost you. Ja
    Thanks. I still visit every day just had nothing to say.

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  • walker
    replied
    Clean it up, clamp it, flux it and use silver solder.

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  • ja baudin
    replied
    Monte, good to see you back on the forum. Thought we had lost you. Ja

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  • fjk
    replied
    You can weld it, but you must 100% follow the proper procedure, if not ... you get more cracks than you started with...

    You can get Ni MIG wire ... several years ago I looked into it and it was very very expensive and you could only get it in the big (11#) rolls ... I only needed a little bit, even the 2# rolls would have been overkill...

    Brazing also works. So would JBWeld.

    With JBWeld I'd worry about the fix not being strong enough; with brazing and welding, I'd worry about warping and distorting the plane body (brazing less so as it's not as hot). Pick your poison.

    Frank

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  • ryanjones2150
    replied
    Question on welding cast iron

    Ya, we talked a little about this a few weeks ago with someone that had a problem with an exhaust manifold. Wonder how that came out?

    If you're positive it's cast iron and not cast steel, then TIG braze your handle doohickey. I prefer aluminum bronze, on AC with the balance around 70-80% EN and the freq around 100. That's how I'd most likely do it. The aluminum bronze flows nicely once you get the puddle going and it machines back down pretty easily too.

    I would certainly agree that pre and post heat is a good idea. Peening the aluminum bronze I haven't found to be necessary.

    Let us know how it goes.

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  • Portable Welder
    replied
    I roark when welding on finales set them down tight and lift them up a little so the weld is not pre stressed

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  • jroark
    replied
    Stainless

    I've welded cast finials on hand rails by pre-heating and using stainless welding rods. Peening it afterwards and they worked out. The finials were rather cheap but held up to the heat pretty good.

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  • Portable Welder
    replied
    I'm sure they make a nickle mig wire but its not as easy as mig welding it up, you need to do the prep, preheat, weld, peen and post heat to do a good repair.

    I just gave instructions about this a few weeks ago.

    Dont waste your time with epoxy if its a tool meant to use, epoxy is a great product under certain circumstances, this is just not one of them.

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  • Meltedmetal
    replied
    I'd remove the blade, maybe the handle, vee it out and clamp it to something flat and rigid and braze it but I'm not into mig. Been a while Nick, nice to know your still alive and kicking.---Meltedmetal

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  • Cgotto6
    replied
    Definetly something to find out. No reason to make things more complicated than they have to be

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  • monte55
    replied
    Originally posted by Cgotto6 View Post
    I would really consider a high grade epoxy. If you can fit both pieces keyed perfectly you likely would have an undetectable repair.
    I wonder if he wants to use this for static display. If so, even ca glue might work.

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  • Cgotto6
    replied
    I would really consider a high grade epoxy. If you can fit both pieces keyed perfectly you likely would have an undetectable repair.

    Leave a comment:

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