Magnifying Lenses

[whatter]

I have been going to the local Junior College and learning to Tig. One of my biggest hurdles was seeing the puddle. My instructor suggested that I purchase a set of "cheater lenses". Anybody have any experience with these? Any suggestions on what diopter to buy? How do you tell which side faces you and which side goes out?

thanks
W. Hatter

[Blondie_486]

W. Hatter,

I have the same problem when doing TIG welding. At the moment I have a Jackson helmet with a 4x5 lens in it and I can't run a magnaview lens in that helmet so I'm putting my reading glasses on to weld. Which there's another option for you wear reading glasses under your helmet. I'm going to get one that will accept a magnaview lens however I have to decide whether to get a standard 2x4 flip front or if I want to put out the cash for an electronic helmet. The new Miller Big Window Elite is supposed to be able to accept a magnaview lens so if I go with an electronic helmet I'll probably give the Miller a try. Most welding suppliers the magnaview lenses and they're not expensive (under five bucks at my supplier). Take a book with fine print with you as well as your helmet and flip up the filter lens and put the magnaview in and try to read the book at the same distance you'll be from your work. If you can see the fine print clearly you have the right diopter. I've been welding a long time now so I'm nearly blind and myself I need a +3.25 diopter (and could go stronger), those are a little hard to find but up to 2.75 to 3.00 are pretty common. They work great as far as I'm concerned!

I hope this helps you.

Blondie_486

[HAWK]

whatter,

Try starting on a low maginification and working up. Most dealers will let you try them. Take it out of the case and try to simulate the distance to your eyes as it will be in your helmet. Try to read something like a welding catalog. If it makes you dizzy, then it is too much magnification(the higher the number the more magnification). Try a 1.5, 1.75, and a 2.0 to see which if any improve your vision. You may be lucky and find a 1.25 mag lens. Most dealers I have checked don't carry it. The mag lens will usually have writing on it in the corner. Turn it so you see the writing correctly. This is the way to put it in your helmet. On some brands it may not matter which side is facing in.

Something else you may try is check the amperage versus lens shade chart and see if you are using a lens that is too dark for your welding amperage. This will make the puddle hard to see. Most charts recommend a #10 for less than 50 amps. I have found a #9 shade works better for me. This is a personal preference and not a recommendation that you use a #9. Here is a chart from Miller:

TIG Less than 50 amps #10
50-100 amps #11
100-200 amps #12
200-400 amps #13

If you don't wear glasses or need glasses, chances are the mag lens will not help your problem. Are you using a standard or electronic hood? I hope this does not sound like and advertisement for Miller, but I must say the new Miller Big Window Elite is a killer helmet for low and high amp TIG. I recently had the opportunity to evaluate one of these new helmets and was thouroughly impressed. If you would like to read my evaluation, please see the post: Miller Helmet: Big Window Elite. I put this hood to the test on low light AC/DC TIG and it did the job. I like it so much I have temporarily laid aside my Optrel Satellite (an extremely fine welding hood) to get some more experience with this new Miller Big Window Elite. Anyway I suggest you give this or one of the new updated electronic hoods (made for low level TIG amps and inverter arcs) a try. I think you will see a difference. Even if you don't weld with an inverter the hood will still make a tremendous difference.

[HAWK]

Blondie_486,

I did not mean to rehash part of your post. Apparently we posted at the same time. When I checked there were no responses and now when I hit submit I see your post. Sorry.

[Paul Seaman]

Hawk thanks for the shade vs. amperage table I think this will help me. Recently when welding at 100amps on 11 shade I got a little morning eye gravel, this explains that. I felt I was safe but you never know. Thanks much

[HAWK]

pjseaman,

You are welcome. These numbers are from booklet supplied with the Miller Big window Elite. I too tend to use a lighter than recommended shade. When I get it too dark I have eye strain from trying too hard to see the puddle.

[Paul Seaman]

Hawk I get the eye strain also but my eye troubles seem to more prevlant with stick than mig.

[HAWK]

pjseaman,

I run 1/8" rods with a #10 up to 140 amps without problems. I usually go to a #11 with a 5/32" rods. I don't burn anything larger unless it is procedure specific because anything larger is too difficult to run out of position.

[ASKANDY]

MILLER mag lens part numbers

212235 .75mag
212236 1.0mag
212237 1.25mag
212238 1.5mag
212239 1.75mag
212240 2.0mag
212241 2.25mag
212242 2.5mag

Hope this helps!

Andy

[Blondie_486]

Hawk,

Don't worry I didn't think you were rehashing my post. Besides you had the shade recommendations that I don't have to give. I usually try on some scrap and see if my filter is going to work and change accordingly. It's what works best for me.

Andy,

Why doesn't Miller make anything above a 2.5? Some of us are blinder than that!! My bifocal diopter is supposed to be a 3.0 but that's been 5 years ago since I had my glasses changed. Although I might be able to get away with less strength with my regular glasses on, I haven't tried lately because I haven't decided yet which helmet I want to get. Lately it seems that I've been getting into a lot more TIG work than I had in the past and more plas cutting as well. Those factors make me tend to look at the electronic helmets a little stronger than I had in the past. Based on Hawk's review of the Miller Big Window Elite I'm more inclined to try that helmet if I go with a electronic helmet. I can't find any dealers in the Cleveland area that carry the Optrel or the Speedglass helmets. They can all order them but I like to see what I'm buying BEFORE I put my money down. Needles to say I don't buy much online or from catalogs unless it's a product that I know and the savings are substantial. For me there's nothing like holding it and examining the workmanship and quality, something you can't do from a catalog page or a website.

Well that's all I have to say today.

Blondie_486

[HAWK]

Blondie_486,

The big difference between the Optrel Satellite and the Miller Big Window Elite is the the Elite controls are inside and do not include a grind function-turn down the sensitivity and grind away is what I found-.

The Optrel Satellite also has 2 shade ranges 5-9 and 9-13. I do like it for plasma cutting. I use a shade 5 or 6 though should probably use a 9. All controls are outside.

Both helmets are quality craftmanship. I honestly do not know which I would lay down if I had to choose. I think the Miller is lighter and more comfortable. However, you must realize I have a bad neck and back from a vehicle accident a few years back. If I say a helmet is comfortable, then I think anybody would agree. The Optrel Satellite also feels very good, but the Miller Elite edges it out. It's tough decision. Good luck

[ASKANDY]

Blondie,

Take a 1.75 and a 1.25 and glue 'em together

just kiddin.

Not sure why they stopped at 2.5.


A-

[whatter]

Magnifying Lenses

Hi,

After reading all the good advice here I visited my local welding store and bought 1.5, 1.75, and a 2.0 lenses. They were only about $5 each. After trying all three, the best overall for me was a 1.75. A 2.0 was just a little too much. I was finally able to make a decent Tig weld! The only oddball thing was that Hornell recommended putting the lense between the front of the auto darkening module and the outer shield. Seems kind of weird but it works. Now maybe someday I'll be able to make some decent AL welds!!

Thanks for all the good info,
W. Hatter

[Blondie_486]

Hawk,

I too have neck and back problems, a car accident and being pushed off a loading dock and what really did my neck in was the blow to he top of the head with a full garbage can. My neck usually hurts pretty bad by the end of the day. What will be the deciding factor for me as far as electronic helmets go is the flexibility with the shade variables. It sure beats the heck out of changing filters 3 or 4 times a day.

Andy,

How much distance to I need between the 1.75 and the 1.25? Sounds like something Tim "The Toolman" Taylor would do! If it were only that easy!! Tell the Miller execs that you've got people out here that have been welding for years with Miller welders, and can't see worth a flip anymore. I't like arcdawg says. "I weld therefore I can't see". So you're coming up on a generation of blind welders out here and they need to come up with some more powerful magnifiers for us blind buzzards.

Blondie_486

[HAWK]

Blondie_486,

I have given the new Elite a great review and a warm spot with my welding gear. However, the Optrel Satellite has more shade adjustment and can be done while wearing the hood. You can adjust within the 5-9 range or the 9-13 range with a gloved hand, but switching ranges requires the naked well practiced hand or removing the hood. I do mean well practiced! I still have to give the Miller Big Window Elite the upper hand in comfort!!!