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No Penetration Welding Flush Butt with Millermatic 211

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  • Sberry
    replied
    This is a 3/16 plate with similar machine and 030. I left a little boog in the back so you can see there was a gap. This is welded from 1 side, the back is the backside.
    Attached Files

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  • BD1
    replied
    Check for a good ground area too. A upgraded brass ground will help too.

    Leave a comment:


  • DATEC
    replied
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...-was-new/page3


    That's one heck of a starter unit for sure. If you have problems with getting a good feed with it take a look at my post in the other thread about the 211. After I did my fix I found my welds looked night and day better. Like the others said a bevel grind in the edge is what you need along with a grind across both faces of metal you are welding will solve that one.

    Dave
    Last edited by DATEC; 06-03-2015, 08:02 PM.

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  • H80N
    replied
    Originally posted by mbmast View Post
    Ok, the message is pretty clear. I failed in the joint prep. That God I don't build airplanes! I mentioned in the title of my post that I'm using the Millermatic 211. I'll add that to my signature as well. Thanks everyone for contributing.
    Not to worry...

    All part of the learning process..

    We all had to start somewhere..

    Leave a comment:


  • mbmast
    replied
    Ok, the message is pretty clear. I failed in the joint prep. That God I don't build airplanes! I mentioned in the title of my post that I'm using the Millermatic 211. I'll add that to my signature as well. Thanks everyone for contributing.

    Leave a comment:


  • MinnesotaDave
    replied
    "Penetration" is achieved through metal prep (grinding).

    Grind a bevel and leave a gap and you're all set (chart included).
    Note: double "V" is less grinding and less weld metal than single "V".
    (1/2 the weld metal)

    Click image for larger version

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    Wire Feed Speed - adjusts amperage: the higher the speed, the more amps to burn the wire off.

    Volts - adjusts the weld bead profile: more volts = wider, flatter bead profile.

    They have to work in a balance to each other for a good weld bead profile with proper amperage.
    Last edited by MinnesotaDave; 06-03-2015, 01:01 PM.

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  • Meltedmetal
    replied
    These guys can advise you better than me cause I'm not a migger yet. But turn your wire speed up to increase amps not down. Also share what equipment you are using it will give those trying to help you more to work with.---Meltedmetal

    Leave a comment:


  • Cgotto6
    replied
    By the sounds of your post I would guess you have either a 180 or 211, in which case both of these machines start to get a bit of a harsh arc in the upper voltage range. This is probably the audible change you are hearing. As the other guys have said, there is no way around it, you must give some space for the weld to lay to do a butt weld properly. Good luck, keep practicing and doing research.

    Also, those settings on the door chart are rough guidelines. They are by no means "the correct" settings for the stated material. Joint prep, joint style, weld position, stick out, and many other factors come into play to properly adjust the welder.

    With your current work piece, I would not waste any time with the oxy rig, just grind your beads off, seperate the parts, do proper joint prep and try again.
    Last edited by Cgotto6; 06-02-2015, 08:12 PM.

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  • H80N
    replied
    Originally posted by aametalmaster View Post
    Either bevel the part on both sides or leave a small gap between them...Bob
    as Bob has stated... you need to do some joint prep..

    I would further suggest that you grind the mill scale off of the metal at the area you are going to weld..

    You might also watch Jody's MIG Basics video series.. starting with this one..

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KrwmK7df-s

    Leave a comment:


  • mbmast
    replied
    Yes.... that's a beginner for you. If there's no way to get any real penetration with the MIG at this point, given that the butt joints are flush, should I go over any existing welds with my oxy/acetylene rig? That'll at least get some heat in there with no added material.

    Leave a comment:


  • aametalmaster
    replied
    Either bevel the part on both sides or leave a small gap between them...Bob

    Leave a comment:


  • mbmast
    started a topic No Penetration Welding Flush Butt with Millermatic 211

    No Penetration Welding Flush Butt with Millermatic 211

    I'm a beginner and I'm doing something wrong. I'm trying to flush butt weld two pieces of 3/16 inch steel and I can't get any penetration. I'm running .030 ER70S-6 solid wire and 75/25 gas on 230V. When using the 'matic's auto setting, I get that nice "bacon sizzling" sound, but the bead just runs on the surface and is high (like a mountain range). In manual mode at 5/75 (which is what the chart says I should be using), I get the same results. I tried upping the juice and slowing the wire, running at 6/60 and still got no improvement. I had problems running at 7/60; the sizzling sound turned into a bit of popping. At 7/70 I was able to push a puddle, but still no penetration. What am I doing wrong? How do I up the heat while not piling on tons of wire?

    Click image for larger version

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    Here's the 7/70 weld. I bent it apart slightly to reveal the total-lack-of-penetration.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by mbmast; 06-02-2015, 03:38 PM. Reason: clarity
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