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AEA200LE no arc

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  • timw
    replied
    I didn't see it in the previous posts or I might have missed it but I worked on some 70's miller portables and they have a 12V exciter wire that if I remember correctly ran to the + side of the coil and was energized with the ignition.

    Leave a comment:


  • moe1942
    replied
    No arc

    Pensive,

    Since I stated my problem It has mysteriously corrected itself. I don't know what I did to make it start functioning other than removing and installing connections for troubleshooting. I have welded with it so I know it is working. For AC it sure is sweet. If I didn't know better I would swear that it is DC.

    Thanks for your input. I know this is an antique and really didn't expect as much help as I got, including Scott from Miller.

    moe1942

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    assume you checked...

    your post mentioned you checked
    the voltage. how about the current?

    also, is your machine heating
    up anywhere unusual which might
    show a short? if you have a IRtemp
    gun, you could check the unit while
    in use. assume it is making the correct
    engine and gen speed.

    are all the leads-cables the correct type
    and gauge?

    Leave a comment:


  • Scotth
    replied
    Moe, give me a call at 920-831-4851. I should be able to walk you thru this fix pretty quickly. Do you have access to a load bank? It would really help. What is the name of the distributor you are dealing with. I may be able to work something out so you can bring the machine in and load it down for a minimal charge?

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Moe
    this may sound simplistic.. but that governor spring May be the root of your entire problem... may try to have an assistant work the throttle while you try to strike an arc... or temporarily replace the spring with a known good one off the other machine (a better option) and see how it behaves... it is quite possible that we were barking up the wrong tree...
    let me know
    thanks
    Heiti

    Leave a comment:


  • moe1942
    replied
    No arc

    H80N.

    The governor isn't responding to the load. I meant to replace the gov spring during the rebuild but got side tracked. With the right spring it will maintain governed RPM.

    Glad to hear you find this challenging fun. Was afraid newbie jumped in and was making a pest of himself. I am certainly learning.


    I will check the rectifier tomorrow and report back to you.

    Thanks

    moe1942

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Moe
    we are having fun and figuring out a few things ....glad to at least give it a game try..
    email me at [email protected]
    am quite curious to see how that rectifier ohms out.. if bad it can be replaced with a silicon one and a heatsink....
    on that voltage drop that you observed... you said a governor spring might fix that.. is it pulling the engine down under load.. or just not coming up to speed?
    thanks
    Heiti

    Leave a comment:


  • moe1942
    replied
    No arc

    H80N

    Actually the rectifier is in the 61. The earlier unit just had a wire wound resistor, I forget the value.

    Since my last post I fired the unit up and as you suggested plugged in a small ceramic heater.(1500 watts). At 125 AC the heater made the voltage drop 10 volts. I think a new governor spring would take care of that.

    I have to find a adapter plug before I can check the DC circuit. The polarized plug won't work in that antique receptacle. Will I check the DC voltage drop at welding voltage (95-135)?

    Where should I send the scanned material?

    Also I will take the rectifier out tomorrow and put a meter on it. Will trace the wiring at the same time.

    Once again, thanks for taking the time and having the patience to deal with this problem.

    moe1942

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Moe
    I am making a rather large assumtion.. that even if your machine were physically different.. that it is probably electrically similar.. and that assuming those values are actual ohms of resistance and not impedance.. you should be able to determine the integrity of the windings by taking the measurements ... we are walking pretty far out on the plank here... and may indeed need to wait till the guys from Miller can research it... would think that they must have a copy of the proper schematic in their library.. and that would sure help... you mentioned a Selenium rectifier.. so am guessing that we are talking about the 1956 machine and not the 1961.. as by then they were being replaced by silicon devices in all applications but high power.. could you scan and email me a copy of the schematic that you have.. and pencil in where the Selenium device is? Depending where it is IT may be the culprit... those old finned devils would develop a high resistance across the junction over time... think it might be worthwhile to take a resistance reading both forward and back across that device.. with it out of the circuit..
    thanks
    Heiti

    Leave a comment:


  • moe1942
    replied
    No arc

    H80N

    I went to pg 3 of the pdf but it doesn't look like the circuit I have. Would taking a reading across the slips rings give any indication of the integrity of the armature?

    Also, I just found this in the back of my manual. A fax from Miller some years ago said the circuit for my welder is not in the manual they sent and is circuit diagram no. A-149-C2.

    To add to the confusion the diagram that was with it doesn't show the selenium rectifier, although the rest of the circuit looks the same.


    moe1942

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Moe
    the pictures are probably of a newer machine.. there is a schematic that seems to come close to your machine in the manual that I found.. just ignore the pot (note #24 pg 6 of the pdf) and assume that it is jumpered.. that should give you 100percent of amperage available at each tap of the choke (AC-Z)... found a schematic of a similar machine that give resistance values for some of the windings... you might try pulling the brushes and taking readings directly off of the slip rings... removing the brushes will isolate the windings and preclude false readings and ground loops from other circuitry... Now
    assuming that the values listed are actual resistance and not impedance.. your readings should be similar.. If the windings are healthy..(schematic with OHM values is on pg 3 of the pdf listed below)

    http://www.millerwelds.com/om/oi411a_mil.pdf

    hope this is helpful
    thanks
    Heiti

    Leave a comment:


  • moe1942
    replied
    No arc

    H80N

    Thank you for your patience. I checked the PDF file you attached. The only similarity between that machine and mine is physical size and appearance.

    Mine has the 115 and 220 outlets on the left side (looking fwd) no range control handle or fine current adj pot. The back panel has the DC outlet top right and the row of work taps and the ground tap.

    If there is a way to post pictures here I can take some confusion out of the mess i've created. My original thought was there was a universal solution to this problem. So much for thinking..

    Please let me know what I can do to make your trouble shooting easier..

    moe1942

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    No Fault No Foul

    Moe
    not to worry.. think I have the proper manual for your machine now... sometimes data plates get pretty beat up... here is a link to the pdf.. could you look at it and confirm that we are talking about the same machine?? ... then we can get on with figuring it out... and if nothing else we have worked through the chaff so that the "Official Miller" guys can figure it out... static resistance for the windings would help.. think I saw them for a similar machine will look them up and they should be at least in the ball park...
    hope this helps
    Heiti

    http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o410j_mil.pdf

    Leave a comment:


  • moe1942
    replied
    No arc

    H80N

    I might have egg on my face. I hope I didn't run you down the wrong path with a bad model number. I have two of these same units. One made in 1956 and the other in 1961.

    I took the data plate off when I painted it. I have it in my hand. It has the following info.

    Ser#K206203

    Model AEA-200L(?) I added LE in earlier posts based on the manual I got from Miller. The data plate is pretty beat up and on close examination I can't tell if there ever was anything after the L.

    It's an A.C. Power and welding generator. (I was told by a local expert that it was a DC welder.)

    Max OCV- 80

    Amps-225

    Duty cycle- 100%

    This machine does not have the adjustable pot, just different work taps.

    I apologize for giving you wrong info.

    moe1942

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Moe
    are you sure about the right model# ??? ....the machine that I came up with is an AC only welder.with aux power.. we may have been talking apples and oranges all of this time not apples and apples...a double check of model# might simplify things...(serial # would help too) could yours be the Blue Charger version? that one has DC only welding output...(but would still have the fine current adjust knob)...if it were a blue charger.. ser# would probably start with JF9...
    thanks
    Heiti

    Leave a comment:

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