What am I doing wrong? TIG Stainless

[DamageInc-ND]

Should be getting a nice Stainless Rainbow effect with this am I correct?Using a Dynasty 350 on DC at 150 amps, 5/32 Tungsten, 3/16" 316-SS Filler Rod. Argon-Helium Gas. Pre flow for about 1 second and post flow for about 10 seconds. Stainless is 1/8" 304 Stainless to 304 1/8"x1-1/2"x1-1/2" Angle IronIs it not clean enough? Contaminated? I seem to have this problem a lot, but then every now and then I get the "nice shiny rainbow" beads. I would really like to figure out what is wrong so I can be more consistant.Thanks in advance.-AK

[MinnesotaDave]

I don't weld stainless hardly ever, but on mild steel for 1/8" material I use a 3/32" tungsten and 1/16" filler rod.

I use the same setup for 3/16" material too (up to 190-200 amps).

What flow rate and cup size are you using for the Argon-Helium mix?
What made you choose 316 filler over 308 filler?

[snoeproe]

Don't worry about not getting a rainbow look to your welds. That doesn't mean your welds are bad.

[Ltbadd]

Should be getting a nice Stainless Rainbow effect with this am I correct?Using a Dynasty 350 on DC at 150 amps, 5/32 Tungsten, 3/16" 316-SS Filler Rod. Argon-Helium Gas. Pre flow for about 1 second and post flow for about 10 seconds. Stainless is 1/8" 304 Stainless to 304 1/8"x1-1/2"x1-1/2" Angle IronIs it not clean enough? Contaminated? I seem to have this problem a lot, but then every now and then I get the "nice shiny rainbow" beads. I would really like to figure out what is wrong so I can be more consistant.Thanks in advance.-AK

Why are you using such a large diameter tungsten and filler? Also I see no benefit using an argon/helium mix (with the cost of helium), if anything use a argon/2% hydrogen mix, or straight argon

Actually if you could achieve a "perfect" shield the weld would be a silver color, which indicates no contamination.

On the post flow, when the gas shuts off, if you notice the weld changes color at this point, then you need a longer post

[H80N]

Typical rule of thumb for Argon postflow is 1 second per every 10 amps of current...

So at 150 amps.. you should start out with at least 15 seconds of postflow... watching your bead color.. if you are getting excessive color... increase your flow and make sure that the finished bead cooling behind is getting enough trailing gas coverage as it cools

That has always worked for me....

[Nathan128]

What am I doing wrong? TIG Stainless

For welding 1/8" material a 5/32 tungsten seems big and 3/16" filler wire is a little big. There's a couple ways to weld stainless (this is what I have found anyway). Weld real hot and move quick so as to minimize the time the material is hot or go fairly cold and slow. Stainless shouldn't be welded too hot for too long as it will essentially burn the chrome out. I would go with pure argon. Down to a 3/32 wire or even 1/16" and either 150 ish and move real quick and dab quick. Or go down to about 50-70 and work it. Just my 2 cents from what I've found to work for me. Good luck. Oh and stainless ideally should come out a salmon color.

[Country Metals]

3/32 tungsten
1/16" filler
150 amps (1 per thousand + 25 for extra control)
15 argon flow

Stainless steel holds heat like a mofo. I know I weld it every day. Stainless needs to weld fast or pulse, slow and steady is not going to win this race. If you need to adjust while welding, bring amps down to minimal on foot control. Torch angle also can mean the difference between gold and multi.

I personally use 1/32 filler for everything through 3/16. I flows just as fast as I can feed it.