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Need help with my dialarc 250 hf

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  • kevin4578
    replied
    Thanks bud for the brake down it really helps when you know how everything functions. Hopefully tonight I'll have time to work on it. Do you know what the voltage is supposed to be coming out of the center terminal of the slide resistor (wire 47). After going through the schematic this has to be where the problem is as I've changed the other components down the line and still no 12 volts

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  • cruizer
    replied
    OK, we have the machine ready to go, we hit the pedal, CR3 comes on, if a thermal is ok, then the main contactor comes on, CR2 comes on, allowing power to the gas solinoid through TD1

    Once that main contactor is on then CR1 engages. powered off bridge SR3 and controlled from a sliding resistor R3. (the latter may be your problem).

    Once the arc is struck CR1 turns off, opening the circuit path on the HF start/continuous switch.

    Whew, there ya have the functions in a nutshell....

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  • kevin4578
    replied
    Ok have some good news and some bad the good is i got the post flow gas working turns out the nob probably got smacked hard and broke the connections at the board so i re soldered now working, the bad is i replace the bridge rectifier and double checked the 47 wire but the cr1 relay still isn't pulling in wtf? The cr1 should be pulling in the same time as the cr2 and cr3 correct? I need a beer!

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  • kevin4578
    replied
    Ok will check #47 wire when I get home. I checked the rc1 relay by removing from welder and putting 12 volts to it, coil pulled in so figured it is fine. When I had that relay out I installed another relay that has the same rating as the original. New relay didn't pull in either. I'll also see if i can locate a new bridge locally to try aswell

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Either going to need a diode testing meter, or merely replace the bridge for like $10 bucks. Will want to check wire #47 to R3.

    Unknown how you tested CR1 being a 12Vdc unit. It still is suspect, as the coil on these craps out.

    Now the center of the control rheostat must have made some contact as, you would not have had ANY output

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  • kevin4578
    replied
    Ok thanks I actually did do a visual check on that it has a couple capacitors tied in there aswell. I didn't notice any broken or disconnect wires there but now that I know this is the part cruizer was referring to I'll look into it a little deeper. What's the best way to test this part, should I disconnect the wiring to it?

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  • H80N
    replied
    Bridge Rectifier

    Originally posted by kevin4578 View Post
    Hey cruizer not sure what you mean by the small bridge sorry for the stupid question but could you let me know what you're referring to. Also i checked all over and the only loose or bad connection is one of the terminals on the rheostat that I still need to fixThanks Kevin
    Bridge Rectifier.... a package of 4 diodes in a bridge configuration.. designed to convert AC to DC

    typical package and also the electronic symbol you would see on a schematic..
    Attached Files

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  • kevin4578
    replied
    Hey cruizer not sure what you mean by the small bridge sorry for the stupid question but could you let me know what you're referring to. Also i checked all over and the only loose or bad connection is one of the terminals on the rheostat that I still need to fixThanks Kevin

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  • cruizer
    replied
    CR1 only comes on when the output comes on. So if it isn't working, the small bridge or wiring to it is damaged or loose. That's the only reason for that relay not to work

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  • kevin4578
    replied
    And switched to remote

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  • kevin4578
    replied
    A bud of mine had a good relay that is basically the same as the original that's in the welder so I swapped them with the same result. I then tested the two incoming lines that fire the coil. With switch on hf start there isn't any voltage at the leads with the pedal pressed or depressed. When i switch it to hf constant both of the other two relays pull in as they should(cr2 and cr3 i believe)

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Well, how are you testing the relay, unit on, and in remote with foot pedal depressed.

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  • kevin4578
    replied
    Ok so the cr1 relay is good but don't have power to it

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  • kevin4578
    replied
    Well just started tearing into this machine now and found the cr1 relay isn't pulling in I also found the end wire if the 150 watt rheostat ( part number 083671) stake on connection had come appart. What would that connection cause the welder to do? It's the high end wire of the rheostat.

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  • Miller Kevin
    replied
    It is most likely the CR-1 relay. You could put a meter on the CR-1 coil leads and look for 12-15 volts DC when you have open circuit voltage. If the voltage is there and CR-1 isn't pulling in then the relay has failed and tf the voltage is not there then you would need to track down why.

    If it is pulling in and the HF is not working it could be the points on the relay are just shot. The relay has 2 sets of points so in this case you could swap the leads over to the other set of points and see if it works. The CR-1 relay part number is 059267 and we do stock it here in Appleton.

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