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Need help with my dialarc 250 hf

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  • #16
    Well just started tearing into this machine now and found the cr1 relay isn't pulling in I also found the end wire if the 150 watt rheostat ( part number 083671) stake on connection had come appart. What would that connection cause the welder to do? It's the high end wire of the rheostat.

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    • #17
      Ok so the cr1 relay is good but don't have power to it

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      • #18
        Well, how are you testing the relay, unit on, and in remote with foot pedal depressed.

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        • #19
          A bud of mine had a good relay that is basically the same as the original that's in the welder so I swapped them with the same result. I then tested the two incoming lines that fire the coil. With switch on hf start there isn't any voltage at the leads with the pedal pressed or depressed. When i switch it to hf constant both of the other two relays pull in as they should(cr2 and cr3 i believe)

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          • #20
            And switched to remote

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            • #21
              CR1 only comes on when the output comes on. So if it isn't working, the small bridge or wiring to it is damaged or loose. That's the only reason for that relay not to work

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              • #22
                Hey cruizer not sure what you mean by the small bridge sorry for the stupid question but could you let me know what you're referring to. Also i checked all over and the only loose or bad connection is one of the terminals on the rheostat that I still need to fixThanks Kevin

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                • #23
                  Bridge Rectifier

                  Originally posted by kevin4578 View Post
                  Hey cruizer not sure what you mean by the small bridge sorry for the stupid question but could you let me know what you're referring to. Also i checked all over and the only loose or bad connection is one of the terminals on the rheostat that I still need to fixThanks Kevin
                  Bridge Rectifier.... a package of 4 diodes in a bridge configuration.. designed to convert AC to DC

                  typical package and also the electronic symbol you would see on a schematic..
                  Attached Files
                  .

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                  • #24
                    Ok thanks I actually did do a visual check on that it has a couple capacitors tied in there aswell. I didn't notice any broken or disconnect wires there but now that I know this is the part cruizer was referring to I'll look into it a little deeper. What's the best way to test this part, should I disconnect the wiring to it?

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                    • #25
                      Either going to need a diode testing meter, or merely replace the bridge for like $10 bucks. Will want to check wire #47 to R3.

                      Unknown how you tested CR1 being a 12Vdc unit. It still is suspect, as the coil on these craps out.

                      Now the center of the control rheostat must have made some contact as, you would not have had ANY output

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                      • #26
                        Ok will check #47 wire when I get home. I checked the rc1 relay by removing from welder and putting 12 volts to it, coil pulled in so figured it is fine. When I had that relay out I installed another relay that has the same rating as the original. New relay didn't pull in either. I'll also see if i can locate a new bridge locally to try aswell

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                        • #27
                          Ok have some good news and some bad the good is i got the post flow gas working turns out the nob probably got smacked hard and broke the connections at the board so i re soldered now working, the bad is i replace the bridge rectifier and double checked the 47 wire but the cr1 relay still isn't pulling in wtf? The cr1 should be pulling in the same time as the cr2 and cr3 correct? I need a beer!

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                          • #28
                            OK, we have the machine ready to go, we hit the pedal, CR3 comes on, if a thermal is ok, then the main contactor comes on, CR2 comes on, allowing power to the gas solinoid through TD1

                            Once that main contactor is on then CR1 engages. powered off bridge SR3 and controlled from a sliding resistor R3. (the latter may be your problem).

                            Once the arc is struck CR1 turns off, opening the circuit path on the HF start/continuous switch.

                            Whew, there ya have the functions in a nutshell....

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                            • #29
                              Thanks bud for the brake down it really helps when you know how everything functions. Hopefully tonight I'll have time to work on it. Do you know what the voltage is supposed to be coming out of the center terminal of the slide resistor (wire 47). After going through the schematic this has to be where the problem is as I've changed the other components down the line and still no 12 volts

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