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Flux cored wire drive roll

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  • Flux cored wire drive roll

    I purchased a Miller Flux Core wire drive roll for my flux core 0.030 wire for my new Miller Multimatic 200, It stated that it would fit the Miller Multimatic 200, part # Miller#202926. I can't get it to roll over the hold in pin. I did notice that the one that came with the machine has a machined area removed behind it, allowing it to push on just a little farther, allowing the drive roll to be placed and turned over the pin, the new roll doesn't have the back hollowed out it's flat. Did I purchase the wrong drive roll for my new Miller Mulitmatic 200?


  • #2
    202926 is what I purchased for mine since that is what is listed in the MM 200 Parts List. I have not had a problem with it. Can you post photos of it from both sides and I will compare it with what I have tomorrow. It's always possible you received the wrong one......

    The post you started in another thread says you are ":....ready to purchase a Millermatic 200....". So, did you buy a Millermatic 200 (an older machine) or the Miller Multimatic 200 (which is what I have)??
    Last edited by mbramble; 02-28-2015, 11:20 PM.


    • #3
      Mbramble, I received my new Multimatic200 on Tuesday, however, I didn't get home to look at it until late Friday. SO, today I started looking at all the items and registering the serial numbers. I placed the small roll of .030 flux wire and when I went to put in the .030 flux roller, it wouldn't go on far enough to allow the pin to pass the front to turn and lock. The one that came with the machine has a hollow back that has been machined out, the new one is flat on the front and on the back, so it will not go on as far as the one that came with it. Is the original drive roller on yours dished out on the back like mine? And, is the one you purchased flat on the front and back like my #202926?


      • #4

        My flux core drive wheel does not have the hollowed out area like the solid wire wheel does. However, when installing it, you can push it in far enough that it clears the pins by at least 1/8". Make sure nothing is getting in the way and preventing you from pushing the drive roll far enough to clear the pin.

        My flux core drive wheel is exactly like the one in this video starting at about 1:30.
        Specific how-to instructions for setup of the Miller Multimatic 200 for flux cored MIG welding on steel. See how easy it is to switch from one process to ano...

        You're gonna love that Multimatic 200!!!

        Last edited by mbramble; 03-01-2015, 09:55 AM.


        • #5
          Mbramble, I would be willing to bet that they put a thicker spring on my drive roll. When I push down on the washer by hand behind the pin, I can see that it bottoms out before the drive roll clears the pin. The spring stacks on top of its self and can't compress any farther to clear the pin to turn the flux core roller. I don't believe that the shaft moves in and out to allow for that roller to go on when in the flux core mode.
          I really thank you for all your help. Looks like you live in Fl, I live in Pollock Pines, just West of South Lake Tahoe. I will let you know what I find out, and for any other
          I will have to contact a sales rep or the repair shop in Roseville Ca, close to where I live on Monday.
          Mbramble, I took another look at the drive roll and it looks as if the washer behind the pin is very thick, or that the black keeper at the very bottom of the drive roll needs to go around the spring instead of the spring sitting on top of the black keeper. Either way, the spring bottoms out on itself before the drive roll can turn to lock onto the pin.
          Last edited by a56nomad; 03-01-2015, 11:12 AM.


          • #6
            I'll go next door and take some pics of mine so you can compare........


            • #7
              1st and 2nd photos just show the shaft, spring, washer and pin. The 3rd photo shows my solid wire drive roller pushed all the way in and the 4th shows the flux cored roller pushed all the way in.

              They both act the same way. Though the solid wire roller is 'dished out' on both sides, it doesn't help the roller push on further because the backing washer is larger in diameter than that dished out area. So the washer comes in contact with the same part of the roller on both rollers. When pushed all the way in, the coils of the spring are pushed right up beside each other without them stacking up.
              Attached Files
              Last edited by mbramble; 03-01-2015, 02:10 PM.


              • #8
                Sounds more like something is damaged or displaced. Does the solid wire roll still fit?---Meltedmetal


                • #9
                  Mbramble, I spent over an hour trying to download the photos from by email to the pictures file in this new windows 10 computer. NOT FUN!!!!!

                  To the last comment. Yes! Something isn't right. There might be two locations to place that split lock washer onto that drive to make it stick out a tad bit farther. The compression of the spring piles onto itself just before the pin can slide over the roll. The spring looks to be the same size as Mbramble's photo and the washer looks to be the same thickness. If the spring wasn't as thick as it is it would compress a little farther and go on. I work for another 6 weeks 5 days a week until the project comes to an end, so I won't be able to have it looked at until then at a service center. I will place a call to see if they have had this occur before.
                  Thanks for everyone's help. I will let you all know what they find.


                  • #10
                    It would be nice to see some photos of the problem you are having. I don't understand how the flux core wheel won't go on if the solid wire one will. As I mentioned above, the 'dished out' area provides no advantage to getting the solid wire wheel on because it is smaller than the washer. If both of your rollers are the same thickness, I don't see how one can fit and the other won't....


                    • #11
                      Mbramble, The dished out roll allows the washer and spring to go farther into the back side of the roll, making it seem smaller, cause the washer and spring doesn't have to travel as far back as would the flat one.
                      I found out and called the service center for my area and it is open on Saturdays, I will take it there this Saturday and see what they think. They had a welder there like mine, and they said that was the correct roll for that machine. They tryed to put it on there machine and it went right on with room to spare. They are even stumped about my problem over the phone.
                      Now, I purchased my Miller from Cyberweld. just wondering if Cyberweld purchases machines, like walmart does from TV and purchases seconds from Companies and can sell tham cheaper, just wondering if that is what I have?


                      • #12
                        The wallowed out portion -- at least here -- is smaller in diameter than the washer so the washer/spring do not recess into the roller at all. The washer is up against the flat side of the roller exactly like it is for the flux cored roller. There is no difference in where the washer contacts either of the 2 rollers and they both push back onto the washer/spring the exact same way and distance. On my machine, the wallowed out area does nothing to allow the roller to push further onto the shaft.

                        As far as buying more cheaply from Cyberweld -- I have told this story here before: When I decided to buy the Multimatic 200/TIG contactor kit/spoolgun, I priced it several places online and I think it was Cyberweld with the cheapest price. Then I went to the local LWS down the road and checked on their pricing. Including sales tax the price they quoted me was $75 more than CW. I decided to buy from the LWS since I knew if I had problems I could bring it directly to them and not have to deal with an online store. The welder arrived 2 days later and they called me to come pick it up. They GAVE me a bottle of Argon, bottle of C25, 10 lb roll of MIG wire, 2 lb spool of aluminum wire, 1 lb package of 3/32" TIG filler metal. I said to the guy, jokingly "I can do all welding but stick!". He said "Oh yea" and walked in and brought out a 5 lb box of 7018! When I asked how much extra this was he said don't worry about it, you're gonna need all this to get started.... And I am not a welder, with a good relationship with them. I had only been in the store 3-4 times to buy a few odds and ends for a welding class I was taking. They even offered to come to the house and show me how to set everything up.


                        • #13
                          There must be something different with that shaft, spring, or it is shorter that supose to be.
                          I plan on buying my plasma cutter from a local weldin store just to get that same service. I called them and told them that I was just getting started and would like to take som classes, so they cut the price of the Hypertherm Plasma cutter for that of a student for me. I told them that I could purchase it cheaper on line, however, I want to give my local store my business and in return, get good service and deals just like you are talking about. I told them that I will need bottle gas in maybe four forms for welding gases, for Mig, Tig, Plasma cuting and for my tourch set. They told me that they will make it worth my time to shop close to home. But I couldn't find a better price for my Multimatic 200, it came with a free Miller Tig set-up in a cary case with two gauges, extra tips and allot of other items. yes, shoping close to home at a store like that is much better deal, and yes, I did think of that before I ordered the plasma cutter, so I will be getting it from them, even though it will cost me over $100 more, it willl be cheaper in the long run. I think that they are called Air Gas. Take care