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Using the spool gun on cast Aluminum

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  • cityjack
    replied
    Bit in it will be

    Originally posted by H80N View Post
    You are right.. the aluminum will not stick to the steel...

    but it seems you are making a lot more extra work for yourself..
    I have the bit and upside down it fits perfect. I'll try it. If it fails I can always try to fill it. the part is in the oven right now and almost done.

    Thanks again H.

    Sid

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Originally posted by cityjack View Post
    I'd like to try to keep the hole. Its .196 x 1/2 dp and straight. It then needs to be tapped. Not sure if I can fill it successfully at the bottom and then if I do not drill in the exact same spot again my hole for tapping will not be strong. The hole is exactly where I want it, only thin wall on 1/2 the side. I just thought I read somewhere that aluminum weld will not stick to steel.

    Sid

    Thanks H
    You are right.. the aluminum will not stick to the steel...

    but it seems you are making a lot more extra work for yourself..

    Leave a comment:


  • cityjack
    replied
    Keeping the hole

    Originally posted by H80N View Post
    why not just build up enough weld then just redrill it..??

    is there some problem..??

    why try and preserve the hole..??
    I'd like to try to keep the hole. Its .196 x 1/2 dp and straight. It then needs to be tapped. Not sure if I can fill it successfully at the bottom and then if I do not drill in the exact same spot again my hole for tapping will not be strong. The hole is exactly where I want it, only thin wall on 1/2 the side. I just thought I read somewhere that aluminum weld will not stick to steel.

    Sid

    Thanks H

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Originally posted by cityjack View Post
    Hey guys,

    I was successful building up the broken boss on the casting. I drilled out the newly built up boss where it was needed getting it ready for a tap. But looking at it now, I probably should have built up more on one of the sides because after tapping I'll have a thin wall on one side and it'll probably break again.

    How can I build up more with the spoolgun without filling in the already drilled out hole? Can I put a drill bit in the hole and reweld? Will the aluminum not stick to the drill bit and keep my hole good?

    Thanks

    Sid
    why not just build up enough weld then just redrill it..??

    is there some problem..??

    why try and preserve the hole..??

    Leave a comment:


  • cityjack
    replied
    Spool gun works!

    Hey guys,

    I was successful building up the broken boss on the casting. I drilled out the newly built up boss where it was needed getting it ready for a tap. But looking at it now, I probably should have built up more on one of the sides because after tapping I'll have a thin wall on one side and it'll probably break again.

    How can I build up more with the spoolgun without filling in the already drilled out hole? Can I put a drill bit in the hole and reweld? Will the aluminum not stick to the drill bit and keep my hole good?

    Thanks

    Sid

    Leave a comment:


  • cityjack
    replied
    Advice taken

    Originally posted by Tryagn5 View Post
    No thats not me. Also 4043 would be your best guess at wire. If possible mill out that broken piece through the case. Then weld up the bushing on the outside. Then weld up the inside. Remember aluminum welding with a spool gun is not like steel. You must move fast and find the proper travel speed. Travel speed will go from slow to fast very quickly. Or the weld pool will be on the floor.
    kevin
    Thanks guys. getting off early today to go pick up my Argon.

    Have a good day.

    Sid

    Leave a comment:


  • Tryagn5
    replied
    Originally posted by cityjack View Post
    Sir, you wouldn't be Kevin Caron from youtube would you?

    Just curious.

    No thats not me. Also 4043 would be your best guess at wire. If possible mill out that broken piece through the case. Then weld up the bushing on the outside. Then weld up the inside. Remember aluminum welding with a spool gun is not like steel. You must move fast and find the proper travel speed. Travel speed will go from slow to fast very quickly. Or the weld pool will be on the floor.
    kevin

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Originally posted by cityjack View Post
    All I have access to is 6061-T6 bar stock. No cast. Will the settings for the barstock be comparable? Also type of .030 wire you think would act best for this cast work? The 4043 or 5356?

    Thanks

    Sid
    No Cast available..??... ??? how about dead Briggs.. Tecumseh motors etc??
    neighbors..??... local outdoor power products repair place have a scrap bin..??
    (used castings will give you real world experience with oil soaked castings too)

    If it were me......
    NO 5356.... it will see service above 150-F.. so that is out..
    4943 if you can get it.. otherwise 4043...
    others may have a better idea..
    but that would be my 2cents..

    FWIW... Given the choice... I would TIG it... 99 out of 100 times...
    but I do understand that you do not have that choice
    Last edited by H80N; 03-16-2015, 10:14 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • cityjack
    replied
    Practice

    Originally posted by H80N View Post
    Yes ABSOLUTELY purge your lines... you want ALL of the CO2 mix out of the lines... about a minute should do it...

    Also... please do yourself a favor and practice for a couple of hours on some aluminum scrap first ... make sure you can run a decent bead on something that does not count... instead of trying to learn on something important...
    Aluminum spoolgun is not as easy as it looks... the practice will be time well spent...
    All I have access to is 6061-T6 bar stock. No cast. Will the settings for the barstock be comparable? Also type of .030 wire you think would act best for this cast work? The 4043 or 5356?

    Thanks

    Sid

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Originally posted by cityjack View Post
    Evening,

    When I pick up my argon tomorrow, can I just swap my gauges from my mixed tank to my straight argon tank? Do I need to do anything in particular before I get going with the spool gun as far as purging gas or anything if I can swap the gauges?

    Thanks

    Sid
    Yes ABSOLUTELY purge your lines... you want ALL of the CO2 mix out of the lines... about a minute should do it...

    Also... please do yourself a favor and practice for a couple of hours on some aluminum scrap first ... make sure you can run a decent bead on something that does not count... instead of trying to learn on something important...
    Aluminum spoolgun is not as easy as it looks... the practice will be time well spent...

    Leave a comment:


  • cityjack
    replied
    Gauges?

    Evening,

    When I pick up my argon tomorrow, can I just swap my gauges from my mixed tank to my straight argon tank? Do I need to do anything in particular before I get going with the spool gun as far as purging gas or anything if I can swap the gauges?

    Thanks

    Sid

    Leave a comment:


  • cityjack
    replied
    Caron?

    Originally posted by Tryagn5 View Post
    If it were me i would machine out that broken piece, make an aluminum bushing, weld the bushing then drill and tap it. Your biggeet probelm is going to be getting the aluminum clean enough to weld. Likely will need to do a full cleaning, then place it in the oven at 300 degrees for a few hours.
    Kevin
    Sir, you wouldn't be Kevin Caron from youtube would you?

    Just curious.

    Leave a comment:


  • aametalmaster
    replied
    I have fixed those types of cases. You will learn lots from your first one. Clean clean and more clean. Unless 100% of the oil is gone you will have a tough time. Good luck..Bob
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • H80N
    replied
    Was hoping you had a friend with a mill...

    certainly doable by hand... but much more time consuming and difficult...

    Leave a comment:


  • cityjack
    replied
    Excess metal

    I have made a fixture/jig to locate the proper spot for drilling and tapping. To clean up I have plenty of different burrs for my die grinder plus a nice little air dremel of sorts.
    I apologize for the duplicate question about how long in the oven too.

    The only Aluminum I have to practice on is 6061-T6 bar stock. No casting material other than the casting in question. I just do not want to do more damage than good. Ugly is ok since its covered by a alternator cover. The repair just need to be solid and work.

    300F for a coupe hours it is then. When all the impurities come to the surface around the welding area, what do I use to clean them with? Solvent, the stainless brush or a combination of both. Should I bake it twice do you think?

    Thanks

    Sid

    Leave a comment:

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