Hey all,
I have an older (I believe mid year 2000) syncrowave 250 that will not strike an arc. I used it successfully on stainless using a scratch start but it does nothing on aluminum.
I adjusted the points to .008" but no there is no visual arc at all with depression of the pedal.
I read there should be an audible buzz noting the HF is working, but I do not hear anything other than the solenoid for the gas click on when depressing the pedal. Tried adjusting the HF intensity control (up to 100, down to zero) but it makes no difference. The only way I can get the points to spark is if I switch the Output-Contactor switch from remote to panel, and I see a quick blue arc jump between the points.
I read this could be a transformer or capacitor problem within the high frequency unit. I took the side panel off and found the capacitor, it has the markings .002uf 10,000V .If this capacitor is bad, are these available from miller still or will I have to find an equivalent to put in?
If there are any other things I could check for before tearing into this machine to test those components that would be great. Hopefully I am just overlooking something simple.
PS. It welds stick great, and if you scratch start it does a fine job on stainless.
serial # la302755
I have an older (I believe mid year 2000) syncrowave 250 that will not strike an arc. I used it successfully on stainless using a scratch start but it does nothing on aluminum.
I adjusted the points to .008" but no there is no visual arc at all with depression of the pedal.
I read there should be an audible buzz noting the HF is working, but I do not hear anything other than the solenoid for the gas click on when depressing the pedal. Tried adjusting the HF intensity control (up to 100, down to zero) but it makes no difference. The only way I can get the points to spark is if I switch the Output-Contactor switch from remote to panel, and I see a quick blue arc jump between the points.
I read this could be a transformer or capacitor problem within the high frequency unit. I took the side panel off and found the capacitor, it has the markings .002uf 10,000V .If this capacitor is bad, are these available from miller still or will I have to find an equivalent to put in?
If there are any other things I could check for before tearing into this machine to test those components that would be great. Hopefully I am just overlooking something simple.
PS. It welds stick great, and if you scratch start it does a fine job on stainless.
serial # la302755
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