Millermatic 130, need some help. Beyond the jump off cliff threshold

[xcursion88]

Pulling hair out here.
Through the help of the miller tech guys on the phone...
we tried to figure out why the motor would only work at 80 wire speed and above...
so through some testing we thought it was the relay. Put in the new one. NO. Did not resolve it.
Then we suspected the rheostat. Put in new one. NO. Did not resolve it.

Something I noticed was that the longer I let the motor turn ( with a clamp) on the gun trigger...the lower I could dial the wire speed down and the motor still turn. So in other words as the motor got warmed up the better it worked. Or the more normal it worked. So I took apart the motor and found one of the magnets inside the tube was not attached any longer. There are four and one of them was loose. What I was dreading ( a new motor) was now a reality. I tried to fix the old one and re-glued the one magnet but got it a little offset. I tested it after the fix on a car battery. It stopped working all together.

So I angrily ordered a new $200 motor. I put it on tonight, hook up the wires. Hit the trigger and nothing. No motor turn. I took the wires back off the motor and put some leads on those two wires. I see nothing on those two wires. No voltage. No matter tap 1 thru 4 or rheostat setting. No voltage. Nothing.

I have no idea what has now happened to this welder.

It has a new relay, new rheostat, and now a new motor.

Frustrated would be an understatement.

If anyone can offer anything thanks x 100.

[bigtow30t]

At this point, push it out side and set it on fire, call insurance company and make a cliam.

[walker]

I had to pull apart the transmission in mine and clean and grease it. Pull the motor and see it if runs with no load, measure the power at the motor and chase it backward until you see where it goes up, and there is your problem. I assume you have checked input voltage, and tried a different cord. Also check the contactor points.

[cruizer]

Did you remove the gun trigger wires from the machine and jumper it with a paper clip or piece of wire?

[xcursion88]

Did you remove the gun trigger wires from the machine and jumper it with a paper clip or piece of wire?

No I had not done that, but when I pull the trigger now, I can hear the machine click...i can see the relay inside open its contact..or close I forget which, just like it always sounded when it ran...but no motor turning.

Please explain what you mean about the paper clip jumping thing.

Another question I have is with the two wires off the motor when the trigger is pulled I should see some voltage there...NO? I poke in the insulation of the wires before the spade clips to the motor thinking maybe one of the female clips could be the problem but nothing. I still get nothing. No matter the setting on the meter.

[Miller Kevin]

The first thing to do is to make sure the weld contactor is staying engaged. If it is staying in skip these 2 checks but if it's not staying in then here is what you need to check for:

1) Check the heat selector switch to make sure it is locked into 1 of the 4 heat ranges.
2) If it's locked in then check for voltage feedback to the little circuit board at pins A and D, you should have weld voltage there when the contactor is engaged, you may have to hold the contactor in to make this check.

If the contactor stays in then I would start with the fuse on the board. They don't always visibly look bad so you would need check it with a meter or continuity light. Either remove it completely from the board or at least pop 1 end of it out of the holder to isolate it. If the fuse is good then the rheostat would be the next place to look, a quick check with a meter can confirm good or bad. The last possible cause in this case would be the motor itself, a 12 volt battery or variable DC power supply would be the simplest way to check it.

[xcursion88]

The first thing to do is to make sure the weld contactor is staying engaged. If it is staying in skip these 2 checks but if it's not staying in then here is what you need to check for:

1) Check the heat selector switch to make sure it is locked into 1 of the 4 heat ranges.
2) If it's locked in then check for voltage feedback to the little circuit board at pins A and D, you should have weld voltage there when the contactor is engaged, you may have to hold the contactor in to make this check.

If the contactor stays in then I would start with the fuse on the board. They don't always visibly look bad so you would need check it with a meter or continuity light. Either remove it completely from the board or at least pop 1 end of it out of the holder to isolate it. If the fuse is good then the rheostat would be the next place to look, a quick check with a meter can confirm good or bad. The last possible cause in this case would be the motor itself, a 12 volt battery or variable DC power supply would be the simplest way to check it.

Kevin as per our conversation today, ( I assume that was you I spoke with on the phone) this is now fixed. The fuse was the problem here.
Thanks for the help.