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Synchrowave 250 problem

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  • Synchrowave 250 problem

    Hello everyone,
    I am new to this forum and have a question I hope someone can help me with. I have a Syncrowave 250 serial # JK618511. I bought it from a co-worker in the 90's and it has been trouble free (until today). It is kept in my dry basement, and is rarely used. This morning I went to weld something and it comes on at full power no matter where the pedal is. I tried switching to panel with the amps set at 10 and it still comes on hot...so hot it melts the 3/32" tungsten. AC is the same. What are the chances that this is a bad board ? If so, do you think I should take the chances of replacing it myself and hoping it works, or should I call a tech in case it's not the board. I know they are not returnable, and would hate to be out the $ for a board if that's not it.
    Any help is appreciated !

    Thanks, Scot

  • #2
    I've got a syncrowave 250 with the same problem several people from Miller have told me the circuit board is the problem.

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    • #3
      Have you tried disconnecting the remote and stick welding?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by walker View Post
        Have you tried disconnecting the remote and stick welding?
        I have not tried stick welding, only switching remote to panel and TIG welding...same results.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by gawelder View Post
          I've got a syncrowave 250 with the same problem several people from Miller have told me the circuit board is the problem.

          Did they hey give you a price for a new board ?

          I'm wondering where the best place is to buy a board. I know I've heard some people use re-manufactured boards... They replace whatever is bad in them and test them before selling the board.

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          • #6
            I have a schematic for my 300, a 50 cent transistor on the board was a problem and my TV repairman bud fixed it.

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            • #7
              If the unit goes full blast 99%of the time its a failed hall device (lem), it's separate from the control board.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by cruizer View Post
                If the unit goes full blast 99%of the time its a failed hall device (lem), it's separate from the control board.
                I have been looking around for a hall device on different parts supplier websites, and am not having any luck finding it. Are they expensive ? Is it probable enough that I should take the chance and replace it ? Also, where is the best place to buy it ?

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                • #9
                  Well, that machine is using a amp shunt to tell the board the amperage, not a hall like the later versions. pretty much reliable. so guessing that there is board damage. However, you can send the board in for repair as schematics are available

                  its a 122-272, any circuit boar rebuilder will easily fix this board.
                  Last edited by cruizer; 12-28-2014, 05:02 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by cruizer View Post
                    Well, that machine is using a amp shunt to tell the board the amperage, not a hall like the later versions. pretty much reliable. so guessing that there is board damage. However, you can send the board in for repair as schematics are available

                    its a 122-272, any circuit boar rebuilder will easily fix this board.
                    Thanks cruizer

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