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Synchrowave 180 SD low TIG output problem, OK in stick mode

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  • Synchrowave 180 SD low TIG output problem, OK in stick mode

    Hello,I apologize if this is better in an existing thread. My search turned up no such thread. I have also posted this over in weldingweb, but that thread is years old. I hope it's not bad manners to post in both places.Thank you in advance for your time reading this...I will reply below with the serial number, as I'm away from the shop. I know it begins with the digits "LC". I bought the machine new in 2001, and it has the digital display for V and A, has adjustable post flow, fan-on-demand, and balance control.I just moved to a new shop location (the 180 SD took a moderately bouncy ride on a trailer). I strung a shiny new branch circuit to the welder on a 50A breaker. I discovered the following problem: When in DCEN or AC, the welder will only output 35-40 Amps, as indicated on the display, and the heat is correspondingly low. HF is working for DCEN start, and continuous with AC. If I put the machine in stick mode, it blazes away with 120-130 Amps no problem. There are no HLP codes showing, and the machine is in the default medium start power mode. The machine has fewer than 57 hour, and ~10K cycles. All visible connections inside the machine appear clean and tight. I cleaned and confirmed 0.012" spark gaps. With no load on the supply wiring I see 248 VAC on my DMM.Here are the conditions: (A) I have the knob on the front panel pegged all the way to 180 Amps, foot control connected. 3/32" 2% thoria, mild steel. All connections from machine to torch, collet, tungsten, ground clamp are clean. Argon is the gas.(B) Front panel knob at 180 Amps, foot control disconnected, jumper between pins A and B on circular connector. Same result, 35-40 Amps on the meter.I spoke with Miller. The tech said that the main board (of course) is the "problem". He said that since I have good output in stick mode that the SCR's are probably ok, and that I have plenty of input power (I was briefly worried that I under-engineered my supply wiring but satisfied after seeing good output in stick mode). He suggested I check the reference voltage across pins C and D on the front panel connector, and that if I have something other than 10 V, then a main board problem is confirmed. I am hoping to get to an answer more specific than "replace the main board". I am silly enough to pull the conformal coating off and remove and replace an offending component, if I can get advice supporting that. I have the skills to do so, but I'm also more adventuresome than is sometimes good for me. If it's just a voltage regulator or a Hall sensor, I would gladly get in there and attempt the repair. If the majority opinion here is that I should cough up the $ for a new main board, then so be it.I will post later today with the serial number and the results of the pin C to D voltage check.Thanks again.rS

  • #2
    You bought the machine New in 2001, yet the serial# reads LC. Well that interesting as "LC" is 2002". Yes I will need the serial #

    The voltage reg is internal to the control board, the hall is working as the stick is working. May be a foot control problem, which would be more likely.

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    • #3
      The serial number is LC578879. I measured voltage from C to D at 2.2 V with the knob fully clockwise, set to 180. I really appreciate your response!

      rS

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      • #4
        The 2.2V measurement was open circuit, just pinning the Amphenol plug on the front panel with the pedal disconnected. I could measure the resistance at the pot in the pedal if that helps. FWIW, the pedal appears mechanically sound. The pot and the belt look fine to me.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by rws08a View Post
          The 2.2V measurement was open circuit, just pinning the Amphenol plug on the front panel with the pedal disconnected. I could measure the resistance at the pot in the pedal if that helps. FWIW, the pedal appears mechanically sound. The pot and the belt look fine to me.
          Well remote ampenol removed you should read 10 ish volts at the machine "C" to "D". absolutely no idea at what your trying to do. You have to use a couple pieces of wire or a couple paper clips cause the probes WILL NOT fit into the amphenol.

          If the remote potentiometer is damaged, your not going to read much from it. Maybe take a resistance measurement on it from C to D and a varience from C to E.

          your unit was apparently old stock cause it didn't leave miller till after August 2003

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          • #6
            Originally posted by rws08a View Post
            The 2.2V measurement was open circuit, just pinning the Amphenol plug on the front panel with the pedal disconnected. I could measure the resistance at the pot in the pedal if that helps. FWIW, the pedal appears mechanically sound. The pot and the belt look fine to me.
            Measure the resistance of the pot on the foot pedal, disconnected from the welder. I would probably measure at the Amphenol connector if possible. You should see a smooth variation of the resistance as you push the pedal. I would probably use an analog meter if I had one, or maybe look at it analog and digital to better understand it. I believe that the resistance should go near zero at the ends of travel, but ask the experts. It is a simple center tap pot.
            Syncrowave 200, Millermatic 211, Victor torch, Propane forge....

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            • #7
              Originally posted by cruizer View Post
              absolutely no idea at what your trying to do.
              ...

              your unit was apparently old stock cause it didn't leave miller till after August 2003
              Thanks. What I'm trying to do is discover if this board is repairable by me, and try to carefully explain my observations. Sorry if it was not clear. I measured C to D on the front panel with the pedal disconnected and got 2.2 V instead of the expected 10V

              i'll look at the foot pedal today. I was guessing at my purchase date.

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              • #8
                I do sincerely appreciate your attention to this.
                rS

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                • #9
                  Pot in pedal shows smooth response from near 0.0 to 1K Ohms C to E, and 1K to near 0.0 D to E. No changes while moving/bending the cable. Cable has no obvious damage.

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                  • #10
                    Check Machine A to machine G , if its not 24 Volts DC, check the circuit board molex plug RC6, even remove it and plug it back in. Also might want to check incomming power in Volts AC at the other side of the on/off switch.

                    So if the 24VDC is low or missing, as is the 10Vdc to the remote. And the 230Vac is present. The control board is toast, and to send it out for repair.


                    I'm thinking that your missing a phase on the input voltage.

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                    • #11
                      Thanks. Will do.

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                      • #12
                        24 VDC confirmed A to G on the front panel. 240 VAC at cord.

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                        • #13
                          Board is no more good, send it out........

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