200 millermatic fuse blows

[AAH]

i`m new here any help would be great,i have a 1984 millermatic 200 ser#je778273 that blows the 5 amp fuse,i found a bad spot where the yellow lead goes into the front(low side)it the one i use the most.i think where it shorted to the case it messed up something else if i unhook the wire from the fuse holder that goes back where the fan is,there is about 5 or 6 wires there,it will not blow fuse may be a diod 1wire leavig it goes to the fan motor have no idea what to check next

[M J Mauer]

Welcome to the forum.

[H80N]

Welcome aboard...

Here is a link to the manual...

http://www.millerwelds.com/service/locate_om.php?regexp=&product_name=MILLERMATIC+200&serial=&submit=Search

[cruizer]

Ahh, that breaker protects the drive motor from over load. Likely you cranked down on the sprindle too much. as for the loose winding, I just pull and redrill it to fit back on the stud. If you had a closed diode,( they generally blow closed) then your primary wall breaker would blow.

[duaneb55]

5A fuse F1 protects the pilot light, fan, gas valve, contactor coil and drive motor circuits. The pilot light, fan, gas valve and contactor coils are AC and the motor drive circuit is DC with the changeover from AC to DC being at full wave bridge rectifier SR1.

If F1 blows immediately upon turning the machine on I would start by checking SR1 for one or more shorted diodes.

If you can't test SR1, you can isolate the problem to the AC or DC side of SR1 by unplugging one of its DC output leads. If F1 still blows, the problem is on the AC side. Unplug one of its AC input leads and if F1 doesn't blow, SR1 is shorted and the problem. If F1 still blows with an SR1 AC input leads unhooked, the problem is in one of the AC circuits listed above.

[AAH]

checked it to the sr1.seems to be the problem with the ac side unhooked it don`t blow fuse so i ordered a new one from our miller dealer thanks guys i`ll let you know how it goes

[cruizer]

Well, yeah the bridge converts AC into DC to run everything else. Soooo, might be the problem, but.... If you have a diode testing meter handy, it's easy to test.

[AAH]

new rectifier

ok i gone the new parts in todayonly problem is the new rectifier is marked different than the old one old one has ac//ac//+ i marked my wire accordingly the new one has +and~ on the edge of it anyone know how to wire it without the indian`s famous smoke signal coming to say (wrong)!!thanks alan

[duaneb55]

The ~ terminals are the AC, the + is DC+ (of course) leaving the last as DC- (again, of course )

[AAH]

thanks looks like only 2 are marked but if you take a mag glass you can make out a + and - on opposite corners and ~on 1 other so it goes without saying for the other. i`ll put it back together tonight and see what happens thanks for the help