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Advice on Chosing Correct Steel Grade for Repairing Rotted Steel on Talbert Lowboy

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  • theweldor
    replied
    I have used 572 gr 50 or gr70 for that repair on lowboys. Have repaired about 20 of them ovet the years and never had a problem. I have always bought it in plate and cut the sections out of it. Have always used 8018c3 for rod.
    Hope this helps.
    It is a poor design that there is no way to pressure wash that out to keep it fom doing that. Although it is a tough thing to design any other way.
    Last edited by theweldor; 09-23-2014, 08:36 PM.

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  • gscales123
    replied
    I rebuilt the neck and extended the frame on my 90 model lowboy. I called talbert and they said mine was made from mild steel, it is a mech. detach 50 ton, i had to arch the beams to match theirs I welded everthing with 12vs 0.45 er70-s replaced all of the attachment in the neck to loadking style large drop down pin on air ram. have tried to kill it moving heavy equip since rebuild so far so good, hope this helps

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  • Sberry
    replied
    I bet this section is common steel.

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  • HighFly27
    replied
    MMW and All

    MMW and All,

    I did not call Talbert, thinking that my 1978 Talbert Trailer would not be serviced by them... do to it's age, it's 36 years old. However, I have nothing to lose by calling them to find out for sure. I expect this reply as well...... " We do not Sell... Main Frame Structure Members. " You need to take your Talbert Trailer to an authorized repair dealership. They'd charge me more than the trailer is worth to do this nose section repair job.

    My Talbert trailer is in great shape (no other frame damage) other than this nose section that set in the dirt and became severely rotted over a 36 years time period.

    I'm thinking, someone on the forum is/ has worked on building or repairing lowboys. They may know the correct grade (cert's) steel for (main) structure members on lowboy trailers. Anyway, I'll call Talbert today and see what they have to say. In the past, I called Trail King when I repaired my 48 ft. lowboy and they were sort of tough to deal with. I could buy... only cross members from Trail King; anything else (main structure) was special order and had to be installed/ repaired at an authorized Trail King dealership.

    _______________________ Up Dated Information _____________________________

    I called Talbert and was Surprised to Learn that I could Buy this Replacement Nose Beam. The parts department will email me a parts drawing of my Talbert Trailer. I will select the Parts I need and email my parts request back to Talbert. Talbert will refer me to the closest Talbert Dealer for pricing and pick up.

    All sounds good, but I bet the Sticker $$ Shock is going to be Fairly Expensive.... We'll See ?!?

    ___________________________ 2nd Up Date ____________________________________

    I called around today to the largest steel suppliers in the AL/ FL area. No One sells T-1 in Structure Steel, they sell T-1 plate steel (only).

    I learned that -- ASTM A36 Beam Steel is the highest strength steel in -- I Beams, Channels, etc. (structure steel) in our AL/ FL area.

    Tensile Strength, KSI is -- 58-80, yield point 36

    I'd love to know what Talbert is about to sell me in Steel Grade ___________(A-36 ?) for this Replacement (nose) Cross Beam ? ! ?

    Avery
    Last edited by HighFly27; 09-12-2014, 01:13 PM. Reason: Up Dated Information

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  • MMW
    replied
    Have you called Talbert directly & asked specifically? Even ask them if you can buy that pc. from them for a repair? If they won't sell it to you then ask where is the nearest Talbert dealer who does repairs & sells parts.

    I have always had good luck calling mfg. direct about items.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tryagn5
    replied
    call the steel supplier...

    Originally posted by HighFly27 View Post
    Kevin and All,

    I understand, you're message.. don't reinvent the wheel.

    However, when buying replacement steel. What cert's. am I looking for ?

    I've trucked with a 48 ft. Trail King Lowboy. I've hauled heavy, and watched the trailer flex. when I passed over rough places on the road. Also, trailers are rated at their maximum load weight at lower speeds of -- 45 to 60 MPH.

    I just started to look at Steel Cert's; I saw (1) I beam that was rated at 180,000 PSI. I don't know if this I Beam was the equivalent rating of what I'm replacing or not ?

    This Nose I beam is a Critical Structure. The (4) Long Wise Beams attach to this Nose Cross Beam. The Trailer Neck attaches to the Nose Cross Beam. The Trailer is rated at 80,000 lbs. GVW; so it's going to be stressed and well (loaded) tested at the replacement I Beam location.

    Anyway, I'm not trying to rap myself around the axle on the I beam replacement. I've welded and plated a number of booms on excavators. If I knew what steel grade cert. I needed, then, I'd be A Ok with this repair.

    Avery
    When i need steel i call my supplier, and tell them t1, they supply the steel. Thats all which is required.

    Leave a comment:


  • HighFly27
    replied
    Kevin and All

    Kevin and All,

    I understand, you're message.. don't reinvent the wheel.

    However, when buying replacement steel. What cert's. am I looking for ?

    I've trucked with a 48 ft. Trail King Lowboy. I've hauled heavy, and watched the trailer flex. when I passed over rough places on the road. Also, trailers are rated at their maximum load weight at lower speeds of -- 45 to 60 MPH.

    I just started to look at Steel Cert's; I saw (1) I beam that was rated at 180,000 PSI. I don't know if this I Beam was the equivalent rating of what I'm replacing or not ?

    This Nose I beam is a Critical Structure. The (4) Long Wise Beams attach to this Nose Cross Beam. The Trailer Neck attaches to the Nose Cross Beam. The Trailer is rated at 80,000 lbs. GVW; so it's going to be stressed and well (loaded) tested at the replacement I Beam location.

    Anyway, I'm not trying to rap myself around the axle on the I beam replacement. I've welded and plated a number of booms on excavators. If I knew what steel grade cert. I needed, then, I'd be A Ok with this repair.

    Avery

    Leave a comment:


  • Tryagn5
    replied
    t1 steel....

    Originally posted by HighFly27 View Post
    11 Sept., 2014

    Hello All,

    (1) I have a Talbert Lowboy Trailer that has a damaged nose section. The Steel has deep corrosion where the trailer nose set on the ground and requires replacement.

    (2) I copied some Steel Spec's from a Lowboy Trailer Manufacture:

    T1 & High Tensile Steel, 100 KSI Flanges & 80,000 Webs.

    (3) I was talking to a good friend that has been welding on heavy equipment and trucks for over 30 years. He said, that my choice of steel would not be -- T1 Grade Steel. He did not know the correct series grade of steel.

    He said, that T1 was hard steel, wear resistant and not fun to weld up. He said, that mild (higher grade) steel would be the correct choice to weld in, to replace the rotted out section.

    The rotted out steel is like a -- 5/8 T., 6 inch I Beam, 102 inches long. It's rotted out where it touched the ground. It's joined to (4) long I Beams that run length wise on the trailer frame.

    I asked about choice of Welding Rod, he recommend 7018, or 80/90 series. Start off with -- 1/8 for 1 to 3 passes and then larger dia. after that.

    I use to weld a lot as a heavy equipment/ truck mech. but now retired, since 2009. I kept all my tools -- MM 251, (2) Trailerblazer 250 G, Miller Big 40, Lincoln 400, and Lincoln 300 Classic/ Gas.

    I'm a bit rusty (5 years.. retired) and need some advice on:


    a. Correct Steel Grade Choice for Replacement of Steel on Tabert Trailer.

    b. I read (here) that a guy used his MM 251 to weld 1 inch plate with .045 wire. I've been told that you can't beat stick welding for strength. Also, that all important root past. It's a longer time process with cleaning between each rod pass. I'm a aware of Preheating to 350 degrees and slow cooling as well to prevent cracking.

    c. One thing for sure, welding this replacement section in is No Joke. Having a Structure Failure is/ could be Death & Destruction when going down the road with a weld or steel failure.

    Thanks in Advance,

    Avery

    T1 steel is oem. 7018 or 71 outershield wire in .045 or .052 will be fine. Try to weld where the oem welds were. Also keep in mind the trailer needs to flex dont reinvent the wheel on this one.
    kevin

    Leave a comment:


  • Advice on Chosing Correct Steel Grade for Repairing Rotted Steel on Talbert Lowboy

    11 Sept., 2014

    Hello All,

    (1) I have a Talbert Lowboy Trailer that has a damaged nose section. The Steel has deep corrosion where the trailer nose set on the ground and requires replacement.

    (2) I copied some Steel Spec's from a Lowboy Trailer Manufacture:

    T1 & High Tensile Steel, 100 KSI Flanges & 80,000 Webs.

    (3) I was talking to a good friend that has been welding on heavy equipment and trucks for over 30 years. He said, that my choice of steel would not be -- T1 Grade Steel. He did not know the correct series grade of steel.

    He said, that T1 was hard steel, wear resistant and not fun to weld up. He said, that mild (higher grade) steel would be the correct choice to weld in, to replace the rotted out section.

    The rotted out steel is like a -- 5/8 T., 6 inch I Beam, 102 inches long. It's rotted out where it touched the ground. It's joined to (4) long I Beams that run length wise on the trailer frame.

    I asked about choice of Welding Rod, he recommend 7018, or 80/90 series. Start off with -- 1/8 for 1 to 3 passes and then larger dia. after that.

    I use to weld a lot as a heavy equipment/ truck mech. but now retired, since 2009. I kept all my tools -- MM 251, (2) Trailerblazer 250 G, Miller Big 40, Lincoln 400, and Lincoln 300 Classic/ Gas.

    I'm a bit rusty (5 years.. retired) and need some advice on:


    a. Correct Steel Grade Choice for Replacement of Steel on Tabert Trailer.

    b. I read (here) that a guy used his MM 251 to weld 1 inch plate with .045 wire. I've been told that you can't beat stick welding for strength. Also, that all important root past. It's a longer time process with cleaning between each rod pass. I'm a aware of Preheating to 350 degrees and slow cooling as well to prevent cracking.

    c. One thing for sure, welding this replacement section in is No Joke. Having a Structure Failure is/ could be Death & Destruction when going down the road with a weld or steel failure.

    Thanks in Advance,

    Avery
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