Scared of it

[FusionKing]

I had pretty big torch on it with the vinyl leads. It was stiff and hard to do much with when it was cold in the shop. It was a Matheson knock off of a weldcraft. I believe it was rated 350 amp and took 17 gas lenses parts if memory serves me right.

I hate 17 style. I have used tons of it.
The CK230FX is a 300 amp torch that can actually take 300 amps with a stubby gas lens and flex nicely at the head and uses 20 style hardware.
I like the flex and eventually they fail from being bent back and forth. But I also like getting paid for show quality results. Being able to put the puddle where you need it is paramount in the repair business. it is our "go to" torch for everyday use and will do 99% of our work, day in, day out.
It does have a bigger, power cable that is unique to itself, to handle the higher amperage (that you can easily run) for general work we seldom consider duty cycle on this. When we do 300 amp jobs I make sure I have an extra torch on hand. One more on order doesn't hurt either. (High amperage tig work eats torches and tig gloves for breakfast !!)
I use the braided style cables. I haven't used the black nylon ones forever. This is what I run on the 700 which could zorch anything in about 5 minutes
We also use the Weldcraft WP-225 torch system with the interchangeable head set. It is a bit amperage limited but can get in some places nothing else will.

[sledsports]

I prefer the CK230FX above all else. So far it is the best compromise of high amperage and access to small spaces we have used at this day and time.
What do you presently use on your Sync ?

I had pretty big torch on it with the vinyl leads. It was stiff and hard to do much with when it was cold in the shop. It was a Matheson knock off of a weldcraft. I believe it was rated 350 amp and took 17 gas lenses parts if memory serves me right.

[FusionKing]

I prefer the CK230FX above all else. So far it is the best compromise of high amperage and access to small spaces we have used at this day and time.
What do you presently use on your Sync ?

[sledsports]

Something I found useful is to get a notebook and write down the settings for every program station. Starting with #1. Then if you make changes or find the holy grail you have an archive. If you totally mess up the machine(and I did early on and had to call Miller) you can do a default reset to get back to default settings. Basically it is holding a couple of buttons on the front while you flip the switch on the back. Once I learned to do it I did it often until I figured it out.

That is a good idea. I had a couple notes wrote on the side of the sycro. With this I'm sure I'll have to keep notes.

[sledsports]

Just set one thing at a time and you'll be fine.
I personally don't care for the default settings still even though I have used Dynasties for a decade, but they are close enough to get you going.
Syncrowave to dynasty really isn't all that big of a leap actually. The main difference (to ME) with an inverter is the driving arc at the center of the puddle. I just feel that inverters are much better at the initial stages of making a puddle, and then a bead compared to the old transformers.
All that said I strive to (at times) duplicate the old settings from a straight Sine-wave machine to weld on crappy cast....but with a new inverter style twist that suits my taste and maintains a sharp tungsten.
Did you get the Runner package, or are you setting it all up yourself?

I bought it by itself. I still have to get a cooler, pedal, torches, and cart. I'd like to have a dual cylinder rack so looks like I'll be building one. Speaking of torches im thinking one of those speedway 320 #9/20 style would be nice to have. Any of you guys messed with or used one? Probably go wireless on pedal too.

[shovelon]

Something I found useful is to get a notebook and write down the settings for every program station. Starting with #1. Then if you make changes or find the holy grail you have an archive. If you totally mess up the machine(and I did early on and had to call Miller) you can do a default reset to get back to default settings. Basically it is holding a couple of buttons on the front while you flip the switch on the back. Once I learned to do it I did it often until I figured it out.

[FusionKing]

Just set one thing at a time and you'll be fine.
I personally don't care for the default settings still even though I have used Dynasties for a decade, but they are close enough to get you going.
Syncrowave to dynasty really isn't all that big of a leap actually. The main difference (to ME) with an inverter is the driving arc at the center of the puddle. I just feel that inverters are much better at the initial stages of making a puddle, and then a bead compared to the old transformers.
All that said I strive to (at times) duplicate the old settings from a straight Sine-wave machine to weld on crappy cast....but with a new inverter style twist that suits my taste and maintains a sharp tungsten.
Did you get the Runner package, or are you setting it all up yourself?

[pgk]

Congrats on that new Dynasty 400! I'm jealous, still using a 300 DX been waiting for it to fail me but it keeps plugging away.

Pete

[sledsports]

The Dynasty process setup thread is back up as a sticky. A wealth of info is in there.

Thanks. I'll be reading the sticky. Probably make a direct like on my phone to it.

[pat h]

The dynastys are pretty simple and probably the easiest to set up they do have some advanced menus that 99%most won't use, but on aluminum I would say there hard to beat

[shovelon]

The Dynasty process setup thread is back up as a sticky. A wealth of info is in there.

[Grizzly1944]

Less than a year ago, I upgraded to a 210DX. It's a fantastic machine and does way more than I need it to. I just passed an Everlast 250EX down to my brother, except for a couple of really minor issues that were quick fixes, the machine has been bulletproof since 2011. I did get an SSC pedal for it and tossed the OEM torch and swapped in a CK 20 series for it. As far as welders from overseas are concerned they are very capable. The 250EX also does more than I need also. For an overseas welder product, the Everlast people work really hard on product and customer support. They are dedicated and committed. This isn't a shameless plug for Everlast on a Miller forum, but the truth is what it is. You will enjoy your new wel

[sledsports]

As far as the 400 I'm pretty sure the controls operate the same way as the other dynasty predecessors with the upgradeable port like the 280 came out with a couple years ago. I guess we will find out. The drool factor hasn't worn off yet. This is going to be a learning curve for sure. I may hate it after being transformer based so long.

[sledsports]

I purchased new. I can't say how it's going yet as I haven't got it set up yet. It replaced my Syncrowave 350lx. I too about went the everlast route but I just couldn't pull the trigger on green so I waited and saved... Jody Collier does a fine job with the green machines and I actually had one in my hands behind a hood a while back and to be honest it was a fine running machine. The electronics and operations are there... is the robust quality up to snuff??? That's the part I couldn't put my finger on. Some say junk, some say they hold up good. Sounds like a crap shoot so I couldn't.

[DougM]

SS, so how's it going with the new 400? It's not too complicated, is it? I have been drooling over some older syncrowaves, but they're a fracking power sink compared to the inverter types. A while ago I was just this close ( || ) to switching the flip and ordering an EverLost tig machine. I think I'll save for a while more for a Miller Dynasty. But anyway, I had viewed LOTS of instructional vids so that I could reasonably operate and test a newer inverter machine if I found a used unit somewhere. It didn't appear too daunting to learn the ins and outs.
Did you purchase new or used?