18 Ga. Newbee?

[Chopshopchopper]

I got sick of working for a cheap medical suply company and decided to start my own thing. I maxed out my credit card and purchaced a SW180, english wheel, bev. shear, and other misc. hand tools. Before I started I thought forming the metal would be the hard part but I was mistaken. Welding is the hard part. I took some welding classes at Polaris Career Center so I know the technical side, my experiance is just real low. I have had my new welder for two weeks now and am in the process of making my first motorcycle gas tank in 18 gauge cold rolled steel. What would you folks recomend my settings be? And or is thear any hidden tecnique that works, so I do not blow holes every three to four inches? Any help would be greatly apreachiated.

Thanks Michael...

[Paul Seaman]

At your weld supply you should be able to get a slid guage that gives amps and metal thickness on opposing grids. I have one of these for mig and stick but not for tig. Try finding one of these it will help alot. Good luck in your new venture, and happy welding. pjs

[HAWK]

Concerning amperage: try using 1 amp per .001" of metal thickness. For example .065" thickness try 65 amps of welding current. You will probably have to tinker. It's just a starting point.

[Paul Seaman]

Hawk, that is a good rule, easy to remember, but is that just for cold roll or will that work on other formats? pjs

[Chopshopchopper]

Thanks all...

I have the slide thing that came with the welder. And I understand the 1/8 inch .125, onehundread twenty five amp thing, to a dagree. What else can be recomended? What about that dial for penitration or cleaning, what should that be set at for 18 gauge? I figure the green would be good??? But then agen I have little to no experiance.

Thanks for your help.

[Paul Seaman]

Try cutting some 6" by 3" rectangles mark the plates with the setup being tested and the techinques for weave or travel and experiment with several different setups. I've been welding for over 7 years and am enrolled in a class for polishing techinque at the local community college. Keep practicing and you will get it, this is not cooking hotdogs. It takes practice, it is not a natural talent and takes time to master.

Good luck and happy welding, pjs

[Chopshopchopper]

Thanks.

..

[Chopshopchopper]

Any thing else?

Circle motion, paralell with joint? Dont stop for any time at all, worck the pettal??? Learn to spell? Amps higher move faster? Amps lower move 12" per min. Or is this someting that id diferent with every TIG?

Thanks...

Any responce is apreachiated.?

[Blondie_486]

I would also recommend using the back step method of welding the joint to reduce warpage and distortion of the metal. I'm working with 20 guage right now at work and I've been having good results by back stepping the joint. Back stepping is simple, start with a short weld then depending on whether you're right or left handed go an inch or two from where you just welded and start another bead and bring it back to where you started with your first weld. I learned this technique a long time ago doing body work with an acetelyne torch and it works well with MIG, TIG and even stick welding also.

Good luck
Blondie_486

[HAWK]

Originally posted by pjseaman
Hawk, that is a good rule, easy to remember, but is that just for cold roll or will that work on other formats? pjs

pj,


It's a good starting point for cold roll, hot roll, aluminum, sheet and plate. It will get you in the ball park on most metals. Also Blondie_486 is on the money back stepping. I run lots of thin aluminum that way. The sample cutting and trial testing is always best for critcal work. I do it a lot even in the field. After a while you will learn your machine amd know what settings will do what, but until then use test samples. Again the back stepping is good. Also work from opposite ends and the middle alternating weld areas of the entire piece to reduce heat input.

[Chopshopchopper]

Thanks...

I will give it a shot on Saturday.
Thanks for your responces.

Michael

[Blondie_486]

Michael,

Where did you find an english wheel. I live in Hartville Oh and work in Maple Hts. at a job shop there. The other day I was in Parma at Production Tool and asked there about an english wheel, they hadn't a clue what one was. Also their selection of sheet metal working tools and equipment was pretty lame also. I'm looking to start collecting some small scale sheet metal equipment myself for fabricating body repair panels and also I'm hoping to get into custom motorcycle fabrication and hopefully have a shop that builds choppers on the same scale as the Tetul's and Jesse James. I have the talent just need the equipment they have to work with. If you're still having problems welding the light guage stuff then maybe sometime I can give you a few pointers in person since we live so close. Let me know and if you like I'll send you my e-mail address.

Good luck
Blondie_486

[mowjunk]

Re: Thanks all...

Originally posted by Chopshopchopper
What else can be recomended? What about that dial for penitration or cleaning, what should that be set at for 18 gauge? I figure the green would be good??? But then agen I have little to no experiance.

Thanks for your help.

If you are talking about the AC Balance control, it would only be used when using AC. It is not used when Tig welding steel.

[Chopshopchopper]

Blondie_486

If you want to hook up I am availible on 01/10/04, or 01/11/04, all day. You can e-mail me at [email protected] or call my cell at 216-780-2688. HHelp in person is always better then in words printed on the screen. Let me know.

Michael...

[Brian C]

If any of the Ohio guys find some decently stocked tool places pass it on. I'm down in Canton, and it's dry down here also. Thank God for the internet, I have to order online most of what I need, or make it myself. I figured Cleveland would have all kinds of places. Brian