Help!

[hankj]

I haven't been welding long enough to be a novice yet, but I'm hooked. I bought an old OAW rig and found out I love the puddle. When I got feisty, the local dealer let me run a Lincoln, a Hobart and a Miller MIG unit - I fell for the "Blue" one big time and bought the MM135. Now, from what I read in the forum and from what I hear from others, it looks like I'll need to go bigger if I want to do any AL welding of material thicker that 14ga. I'd appreciate your comments on wether or not I would be wise to get the SGA 100 and Spoolmate gun for my MM135.

Thanks from "Darth Weldor"

[SoCalTA]

From the answers I have been given and my own research, it seems that MM175 will do AL in an ok manner but the MM210 with the spoolgun is the ticket. It's what I just purchased. Guys like Hawk will be able to give you a really good answer and some detail to support it. I basically followed his and others lead to pick my machine

[hankj]

Help!

Thanks, SOCALITA. I'll hang in for more feedback, but if I'm going to jump to a bigger machine, I thing a move just to a 175 would be a waste of $$.

Hank (Darth Weldor)

[Paul Seaman]

hankj: I started on a similar machine about 7 years ago and finally bought my mm210w/spoolgun just last year. You can do alot of learning and practice with what you have. Compare the price of the attachments to the cost of the mm210w/spool gun. If the difference is going dig into your pocket too much, then you will either have to be patient and do multi-pass with the smaller unit or wait until your funds match your desires. If you wont miss the $$ go for it but practice is the key to it all. Good luck and happy welding. pjs

[hankj]

Thanks, guys.

Sorry for the delay in respondiong - I've been out of town, but I'm back to trying to stick stuff together out in the Gadget Garage.

Can anybody tell me how to get a weld coupon tested? I'd like to know if I'm actually welding, or if it just looks good.

Thanks,

Hank (Darth Weldor)

[HAWK]

hankj,

Welcome,

Go for the MM210 spoolgun package. It should do almost anything a hobby or professional welder needs within reason. How large aluminum are you looking to weld? DON'T BUY THE SGA, ETC FOR THE MM135. WASTE OF $$$. Let me know what you think you are wanting to do and I'll help point you in the proper direction with the reasons that support my answers. Ball in you court.

[hankj]

Hawk,

Thanks for the input. I was thinking like you say. I can think of a lot better ways to spend the 800 bucks - like saving them till I get 1800 and buy a Syncrowave SD 180.

As for what I wnat to do, I don't know yet - I'm that new to this. But I can't think of any projects I'd want to build using larger than 1/8" AL stock right now.

I did make a chimney cap for a neighbor out of some 16ga. and expanded metal last night. It looked good, but I don't really know if its welded, or just looks good!

Like the folks keep saying - practice, practice, practice.

Thanks again,

Hank (Darth Weldor)

[HAWK]

Too Cool!,

New blood keeps the industry alive. I am gettin older and slower as the years go by. I still love the work and learn something new every week. I urge you do do the same-keep learning all you can. If you fail, so what. That means you are trying. That's how we learn!
Best of luck this new year!

[Paul Seaman]

hankj:

If you are a beginner tig is a harder process because you have multiple eye and hand coordinations to balance. Not that you can't learn it but the frustration level is higher, I have been welding for 7 years and tig gives me trouble but I am not giving up I just need more skill and time.

Mig is a more beginner friendly process and it helps build confidence in yourself. If you decide to go tig then get into a class at the local tech college, it has helped me a tremendous amount.

By the way I start stick 2 tomorrow night I am still working hard to learn more skill, the teachers often see desire and will help with extra instruction.

Keep learning, keep asking questions, never quit learning, if you get frustrated step back take time, then start again. We all do it- practice. weld well pjs

[hankj]

Help!

Thanks, guys.

Wow - it's commin' faster than I can keep up...

My buddy from the local irrigation district brought me an old 300 series Sears buzz-box today. The labels are illegible, but it had a 30 amp plug on it, so I stuck it in the outlet I use for my planer (woodworking tool - sorry!) and after many frustrating attempts, I actually struck an arc - briefly! The breaker tripped. I had the dial set at 180 amps. If I'm right, the arc voltage ought to be around 40 - 50 volts. If so, I have a 50 amp breaker in my junk box - I'm gonna wire it up to a new outlet tomorrow and try it again. I picked up 5 lbs. each of 6011 and 6013 (1/8") rod. Sound OK?

Hank (Darth Weldor)

[Jerome]

hey help or hank

180 amps w/ 6011,is for 3/16 rod--180 amps w/6013,is for 5/32 rod.
1/8 rod a/c or d/c 6011 is 90-115 amps,6013 is 90-130 amps??
im just an ol rod burner,some of these real live welders maybe have
better ideas?? im getting my info from a lincoln electrodes selection guide,its only about 40yrs old!!my welder is licn.ac225 Amp
buzz box. on 1/4 in plate you strike an arc by dragging the end across
the metal,when the rod starts,hold an arc length about the dia. of the rod 1/8in rod,1/8in arc length.if it sticks,your arc is usually
too short.if arc is too long,sometimes it goes out,melts a hole,or it blows slag al around.this is just to confuse the issue.
Anyone else got some ideas??

[HAWK]

hankj,

Good luck with the "new" buxx box. First be safe and get the correct breaker and wire size installed. The 6011's are a true AC counterpart to the 6010. The 6013's also run well on AC. However, if you have a DC option, you can try running either rod DCSP or DCRP. These are two types of rods that never seem to burn correctly on DC according to the manufacturer's specifications. Here's a word to the wise from a welder who got his start as a "rod burner". Be careful welding on AC. If you contact your workpiece while welding, even with a damp glove, the bite can be bad.

[hankj]

Help!

Thanks, Hawk, and Hiya, Jerome.

I found the info Jerome supplied on the rod boxes. I was trying to run way too hot. As for the electrical safety, that's the ONLY place here I'm sure of my abilities! Per the code, #8's will do fine, and I have plenty of wire, EMT, boxes, etc. in the Gadget garage. I'll talk to you guys as soon as I have a new development.

Your help and insights have been invaluable to me, and I thank you greatly!!

Hank (Darth Weldor)

[Jerome]

Hank;HAWK

I think HAWK was refering to PLUGING YOURSELF in to the welding circuit,i.e., acting as a connection between rod holder and gnd clamp!Which I've done a time or two,and not only w/ AC welders.I was an Electrical Systems Tech(fancy name for a wire chaser)on A-4's in the USMC and I can remember more times than I'd care to admit to,of trouble shooting during launches,and reaching into the engine compartment(engine bay)where you cant see, and grabing holt of a cannon plug to wiggle it, and finding out that YES! there is 3phases,400 cps,some odd voltage present! And no, I dont check for pwr with my tongue.just trying to give everybody a little more background on me.Ive seen several experianced(i cant spell either!)welders or electricians electrocuted by worn,melted,etc..cables and sometimes its DCV,of course most of the time its a fairly mild ZAPP,not to much burned flesh.

[HAWK]

Jerome,

My dad used to work on high tension 13.8K power lines. He was on a tower down from his buddy and thought he heard dynamite. Somehow is buddy has gotten his hand to elbow across the HTP line to ground and boom. Miraculously he lived. No forearm though. I also had an aquaintance who said his partner melted a gold wedding band into his hand welding with AC on a wet work piece. I did not see that one, but have heard of it before. Electricity and welding can be dangeous stuff. HERE'S TO ALL WHO POSTED ON SAFETY SEVERAL MONTHS AGO!