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  • aametalmaster
    replied
    Mike, I would not be afraid to use my Miller 185 mig on your car turner. I don't know what size mig you have but I would not go smaller than a 185 Miller. Let me know how it works out I have a 64' Fairlane also. I built car haulers for over 10 years all welded with Miller migs..Bob www.tracksoverhead.com

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Rotisserie

    Mike I built a roto with the 4/4 for 49 Merc!The beast works beautiful! But it is a bear to rotate!If I were to do it again I use the 4/4 for outside frame work and heavy wall 2/2 to attach car to roto!Other than being to heavy My roto works Great! I have pretty much rebuilt car 8incs up 18 gauge in the floor,rocker boxs and rockers!The roto was the only way to go!
    Big Chevy Goin Fast on Pump Gas!

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  • Mike Kopmanis
    replied
    Cobra / T-Bolt

    You're not by chance the guy that I bought a red '64 Fairlane from are you? The log-in seems familiar. If you are, I'm building another '64 and using the red one for parts as anticipated. Shock tower alterations, air pan and battery tray are completed as are replacement of flooring.

    I did recently build a 427 side-oiler powered Cobra, so I'm probably the guy you're thinking of. Cobra's since been sold to pursue drag racing the '64. you can e-mail me at work [email protected].

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  • H80N
    replied
    have a bet that your last project was having a cobra replica built..
    thanks
    Heiti

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  • H80N
    replied
    Mike
    yep just as i figured another Thunderbolt clone project... the links were provided for design information...the roto2000 being a pretty good one (should have left it at that) and of course i was not advocating brazing or bolting... as I weld for a living.. and know better..and would "NEVER" advocate using engine stands for a rotis..
    good luck
    Heiti

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  • Mike Kopmanis
    replied
    Rotisserie Welding Update

    After talking to one of the welders (40yrs experience), he felt that I'd be just fine with 1/8" 7018 running a triple pass. My Miller MIG is a smaller 150 amp unit, so from Hawk's response, I think that it would be a little overtaxed. I have no problem welding stick. I fabbed the main uprights together Tuesday night and they came out beautiful.

    On the selection of 4" heavy wall tubing: I see many people get away with much less. One of the posted websites shows a guy that made a three legged rotisserie for a Jaguar and BRAZED it together. I won't comment on the quality of the brazing beads, see for yourself. I Like to build something that I know is 100% safe. Some of the "1000 lb rated" engine stands are scary with a small block on them.

    Losing my car or much worse, my life is not worth it to me. I've got a good contact for a steel supplier who gives me what I consider a really fair price on material. I'll have about $400 invested, but I'll be able to put anything on it. I'll post some pics when the project's finished. It is a '64 T-Bolt clone, powered by a 534 cu/in 870hp stroked 460 Ford. Thanks for all the help everyone.

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  • H80N
    replied
    Mike
    here are some links that you may find helpful in planning this project. http://www.theroto2000.com/id6.html

    http://www.prostreetcar.com/body_rotisserie.html

    http://www.employees.org/~bmckenna/xke/jag6.htm

    http://classicbroncos.com/rotisserie.shtml

    just some more food for thought..
    good luck

    Heiti

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  • HAWK
    replied
    Mike,

    I like the idea of 3/8" heavy wall tubing. I just spent several days with my engineer and welding buddy designing aand bidding a dock platform extension 12 feet by 20 feet to hold 15K LBS. We blew off the weight requirement and shot for overkill using W10 beams and 3/8" wall x 4" x4" Sq tube. The final design will hold 15 tons (30K LBS). If you can move it , then go for it.

    A good hot mig with .035 ER70S-6 will do just fine. Given enough voltage and wire speed you can easily weld 3/8" in a single pass. Run some test pieces and crank it up. If you are a fan of SMAW and concerned your mig won't do the job on 3/8" wall, then make your root pass with 6010 on DCRP and hot pass with 7018 DCRP within 5 minutes of your root pass. Use a grinder with a brush to thouroughly clean the slag from your 6010 welds. Use 1/8" rods for this. The 6010/7018 is a standard pipe cert and in many instances is required for 3/4" and thicker plate. However, I believe it is a time killer for you unless your mig is anything less than a MM210 or equivalent.

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  • H80N
    replied
    Mike
    3/8 wall tube is awfully heavy to support a car... have built and used them for race car and restoration projects... and were of 1/8 or 3/16 tube.... assuming that you are just going to mount a bare tub to do structural work... the lighter stuff will be fine.. and i would mig it.. just personal preference.. as both methods would work fine... save the money and go lighter.. plus once this project is complete.. the lighter stuff is much easier to move and store until the next project comes calling... sounds like you might be building a "THUNDERBOLT" replica????
    good luck
    and hope this helps
    Heiti

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  • garcia
    replied
    A "whatshumacallit"

    that you can attach a vehicle to it, lock it in place, lift it, and slowly turn it to a determined angle.
    Nice to get to the underside of a car, but warning: might start seeing oils and other fluids leaking out.
    G.

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  • qualls
    replied
    What's a car rotisserie?

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  • garcia
    replied
    90-angle's

    reinforcements on the weak points should be able to help support the weight. (JMO)
    G.

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  • Mike Kopmanis
    started a topic Car Rotisserie

    Car Rotisserie

    I'm in the process of fabricating a car rotisserie for a '64 Fairlane. The uprights are to consist of 4" box tube, with 3/8" wall. I have MIG and stick DC capability. I'm thinking that the heavy wall thickness would be better addressed by using the stick with a 7018 DC 1/8" electrode using reverse polarity. The MIG is currently set up with .030" wire. Any other opinions or recommendations?
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