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  • Un Weldable transmission.

    A customer brought me a Lincoln MKS and the trans got cracked from road debris, Its out in the open all by itself, The crack is about a 1/4" off the bottom and travels upward about 2".

    The trans is still in the car so I drained the oil, When I put it up on the hoist I picked it up on a angle to make sure residual oil would not be in this area.

    I was able to get 1" of good weld at the top but oil just wont quit coming out of the crack, Its almost like the heat is wicking residual oil down from above.

    Its been sitting for a day without oil prior to me starting to weld and yes I know you can never completely drain a automatic transmission.

    What Pi$$es me off is this is a 10 minute job if the oil would quit coming out.

    I'm gonna let it set for a while before I try again.

    My next option is to pull out the mig aluminum gun and gob the weld on.

    Any Ideas.

  • #2
    Un Weldable transmission.

    6010-or 6011 to seal it up

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Portable Welder View Post
      A customer brought me a Lincoln MKS and the trans got cracked from road debris, Its out in the open all by itself, The crack is about a 1/4" off the bottom and travels upward about 2".

      The trans is still in the car so I drained the oil, When I put it up on the hoist I picked it up on a angle to make sure residual oil would not be in this area.

      I was able to get 1" of good weld at the top but oil just wont quit coming out of the crack, Its almost like the heat is wicking residual oil down from above.

      Its been sitting for a day without oil prior to me starting to weld and yes I know you can never completely drain a automatic transmission.

      What Pi$$es me off is this is a 10 minute job if the oil would quit coming out.

      I'm gonna let it set for a while before I try again.

      My next option is to pull out the mig aluminum gun and gob the weld on.

      Any Ideas.
      Those oil soaked porous aluminum castings are a bugger...

      I feel for you..

      spoolgun might let you get in and get out fast.... but am not so sure..

      fraid... probably no easy answer... (not one you will like..)

      sounds like one of those quickie jobs that you as a favor for cheap or free.... that turns around and bites you...
      .

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Rhinox View Post
        6010-or 6011 to seal it up
        On aluminum????????????

        Griff

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        • #5
          Un Weldable transmission.

          loll..oups !!

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          • #6
            Un Weldable transmission.

            brain fart!!!!

            dont use 6010-6011 lolll that wont work!

            but on aluminum casting one day had same prob and what i did is punched in with a chiesel where is was still leaked and rewelded it with spoolgun after the fact!
            got lucky it worked!!!

            sorry again for my brainfart..lolll..wow

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            • #7
              Un Weldable transmission.

              make sure everytime you do interpass you clean it down...and clean it ...and clean it..and...cleanit

              till yougot it!!

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              • #8
                i had an aluminum oil tank, about 30 gallons worth, with a vw bug engine mounted on top of it, it was a pump for concrete cutting, the customer hit a huge bump, sent it airborn in his box truck, when it came down, almost all of the top welds on the tank cracked, it was a disaster, when it hit the floor, a crow bar landed on the battery, shorting it out, now its on fire, he brought it to me to fix, i used stick rod , it works great, it burnt the oil away before it could get into the puddle, had a few pin holes. i think the trick with opily alu is not to care about, just get in there and do it, run it hot and fast

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                • #9
                  I had a similiar repair one time

                  I feel your pain, I did a crack on the bottom of a honda motorcycle engine that still had the oil in it, Actually the guy hit a curb and it puked all the oil out so he filled it with 80/90 gear oil so it didnt drain immediately and got it off the highway. Ended up draining all we could and flushing the casing out with varsol still assembled on the bike. I found the heat of trying to weld caused the residual oil and solvent to weep right out of the weld, contaminating it horribly, it was all over head welding right on the bottom. tried to weld kind of a snotter pass with the tig. was difficult but i got kind of a root pass in, then very carefully ground out the porosity with a die grinder, and was able to then add more passes grinding out any defect as i went. I dunno if any of this is relevant to your repair, I had the bung out of the sump and the oil filler cap removed, so it vented it somewhat without pressurizing the Crankcase bottom. The several pass method probably burned what ever oil residue was left, and eventually seemed to enable a decent weld to seal it completely, I had to do a pass then let cool and then grind out any poop as it was necessary to avoid burning any seals or damaging the casting by war-page or burning the aluminum. it was a time consuming job , but its been five years and the guy is still riding the motorcycle. Actually turned out to be a decent repair given how horrible it was when it rolled into the shop. He says he has never had a leak or issues. I guess if your situation cant be welded due to the oil issues maybe devcon aluminum repair or JB weld might be the only other option if really welding it isnt.
                  I have a welding addiction

                  ...the only stupid question is the one you didn't ask

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                  • #10
                    Having done nothing ever on a transmission take my suggestion as only a guess.

                    When welding dirty tanks, etc. I have had good luck cleaning first, then heating with a torch to burn any contaminants away. I just keep heating & cleaning until no more oil is seen. Sometimes you need to heat adjacent to the weld zone to give you time to weld before the oil/crap is drawn in. Maybe heat, then weld a small section, clean, re-heat, weld another small section until it's sealed. Then carefully run passes as needed to completely fill. You may have to only do short welds the entire time letting cool in between. Make sure it is vented cause even the slightest pressure can blow it out. I have also had luck using mig (spool gun) on something I couldn't tig. The "quickness" of the weld was the key to sealing it up before it would suck oil into it. I just made a series of tacks to get it sealed.
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                    • #11
                      I was hoping that the oil would drain over night, I checked at 6 am before I go to coffee and there was still oil coming out, sprayed with break cleaner and its still coming out, so now I'm going to switch to mig alum. and try gobbing it on.

                      As far as cleaning, I weld for 4 seconds and clean for 30 seconds, I've been doing this for a couple of hrs.

                      Thanks for every ones input.

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                      • #12
                        pull it

                        Some trans will never stop weeping, the cases hold oil, only way is to turn the case..ie pull trans. Sucks but only way. Becareful heating to burn the oil out to hot can burn the trans inside, if your leaking oil your into a passage.
                        Kevin
                        Lincoln ranger 305g x2
                        Ln25
                        Miller spectrum 625
                        Miller 30a spoolgun
                        Wc115a
                        Lincoln 210mp
                        F550 imt service truck

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                        • #13
                          Not a good idea to use "Break Cleaner". The heat of the arc breaks it down in to some really toxic compounds. Using "Carb Cleaner" is way safer.

                          Might want to read this. http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm
                          Last edited by 4956; 03-16-2014, 07:31 AM.
                          Will Argue for Beer (any issue, either side)

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                          • #14
                            do you have a bolt threader if so try drilling holes in the crack then thread them. then take some aluminum round bar and thread it .after that screw the round bar into the holes in the crackthen cut off with a metabo blade .do this for the full length of the crack this should seal it up pretty good. then clean it up really good and spot tack it with the mig til you have it all covered . then you can clean it up better and hopefully stop oil from seeping out.when it's sealed up and cleaned then you can run a better pass over it to ensure it's welded and sealed.i have done this on engine blocks and it has never failed so it should work on aluminum too . the only bad thing about aluminum is finding bolts or all thread rod that's why you'll have to make your own out of aluminum round bar.

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                            • #15
                              Grind, heat, burn out the oil, weld, grind and do it again if its still seeping and making holes in the weld. Sometimes you have to do it 2 or 3 times until its right. I have been doing them for almost 40 years and nothing has changed. I did do a HD cycle engine once that was perfect the first time but it spent the winter soaking in a cleaner. Same thing welding an alum wheel. You still smell tire and JB weld after 2 or 3 times....Bob
                              Bob Wright

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