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**HAWK** · 12-06-2003, 02:59 PM

Flat-Out,

Nice kitchen plan! I read your post thouroughly, but let me start with what really caught my eye. STAY AWAY FROM THERMAL DYNAMICS AND THERMAL ARC! I have personal experience with the TD38. I would rather have a Bosch Jig Saw.

The Bosch 1587AVS is a heck of a little tool. It is rated up to 3/8" A36 steel. I have used mine on 1/8" and 1/4" mild steel and 3/16" ss. It tends to eat blades on the upper end without a good coolant.

I rented a brand new TD38 from a local dealer. It was maxed out on 1/8" on a 30 amp 230 volt circuit. It is not much of a machine. I also owned a TD Pak-Master 100 ( 70 amp machine) and it did well up to 5/8" or so, but nowhere near it 1.25" rated capacity.

I was recently priveledged to a plasma cutter demo on the following machines: Miller 625, Hypertherm Powermax 600, Powermax 1650 G3 series, ESAB 550(made in Europe), ESAB 875 (Made in the USA), and the new Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster. The Miller 625 is a nice machine and cuts 3/8" mild steel like butter. It is a very clean, thin kerf, fast cutting plasma machine. The Hypertherm Powermax 600 is another overated machine, but does fair up to 3/8". You do have to go slow with it. The Powermax 1650 is an awesome 3 phase machine and will pierce 1.25" 304 ss no problem. It will also clean cut this same material with ease. Yes, it's more machine than you are looking for, but I wanted to say it is an awesome machine for those looking for a larger industrial type cutter. The ESAB 550 does fine, but consumables will eat you alive at $50 per torch head guts replacement and $12 or so just for tips. Also, it is contact start only. The ESAB 875 is a nice machine if running off shop power. Forget running from a generator! It is a 7/8" machine and does well. The Thermal Cutmaster 70 does better than machines past, but still lacks that good clean, fast cut. My local dealer has a Miller 375 in stock because the customer returned it. It is just somewhat of an over rated machine. The Miller line is good stuff in the 625 and up. If I had not seen the shop try this 375, I would have called them less than justified in their review of the 375.

The Miller Spectrum can be had for around $1550 and I believe is the way to go for 3/8" steel and ss. You won't go wrong. It's only a few hundred more dollars in the mortgage. This is a small price to pay for all the future artwork.

The Dynasty 200DX is an awesome machine. I own one and would not let it go. Yes, the TA 185 is tempting considering the $2000 tag includes all the goodies: torch, amptrol, regulator, etc. Take a good look at both machines: The 185 is very light duty and somewhat chintzy in a side by side eyeball comparison. My wife's cousin, who stuck a 6010 in my hand and said run it some years back, is an industrial contractor and favors the big TA machines-400 amp inverters. However, he has nothing good to say about the TA 185. He has been at this for 45 years. What kind if reference do you want? I'll bet you'll be tickled blue with the Dynasty. Get the DX full featured model-only $200 extra bucks over the SD.

With all the above rhetoric I forgot to say I have owned all the major brands: Lincoln, Miller, and Thermal Arc/Dynamics. I am not machine predjudiced. I feel like my answers are for the most part objective. I now own all Miller, but that's a personal thing.

Consumables: Just order enough off the net to keep you going. One more thing on the 625: It does not use high frequency, but has a pilot arc that will jump to the work surface. No drag starting here.

The cheapest way out for reasonably dry air is a water separator from sears at $20 or so. The toilet paper air dryers are under $50 bucks and make a nice secondary line filter. All I use is the basic water separator and do fine plasma cutting and arc gouging.

Thoriated tungsten does fine on the the new inverters. The ceriated or lanthanated seems to provide a somewhat "cleaner" arc with less spitting and hold a point longer. I use all three. Miller actually supplies 2% thoriated in the contractor kit. If you like, I'll be glad to give you a source for all types of tungsten at about $3-$4 per stick.

The Speedglass 9000 is a nice helmet, However, no matter what they say, the Optrel Satellite is the best welding helmet on the market today bar none! It can be had for around $250 to $350 depending on you shopping skills. I paid $245. It is fully adjustable in delay, sensitivity, 5-9 shade range for low amp tig, 9-13 shade range for standard 1/8" and up rod, and the 13 works well for CAC. It has a golden arc oppossed the green arc of most hoods. It is also compatible with all types of optical cheater, etc. BTW, I appreciate the compliment.

Good Luck

**Flat-out** · 12-08-2003, 12:48 PM

Hawk,

Thorough response as usual, thanks!

What kind of blades (can you send a link?) do you use for the jig saw?

I have had some bad luck with burning up blades on SS, and for cutting thin stuff it really vibrates. I did purchase some fairly exotic blades for SS at work ($20-30 for two I think) but I have not tried them.

What kind of coolant and how do you apply? I have tried this and made a mess!

Do you or does someone like Rock know the 120V cutting capacity of the 375? If I do get the 625 (gulp) I will only be able to use it in my shop due to input voltage.

How would you compare the total time, including any grinding for clean-up, between the jig saw and the 625? Does this vary with thickness?

Is this the filter/separator you are talking about?

Attention Required! | Cloudflare

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00916008000

(if the link doesn't work it is part # 16008)

I have had trouble locating the "toilet paper filter" on the web, do you have a link?

RE tungsten - so what kind do you use and does it vary with mat'l?

Do you have any suggestions for a starters "pack" as far as tungsten diameters go?

Can anyone comment on whether brwelder.com is as good as cyberweld? It looks like they are a bit cheaper and they have the Optrel helmet.

**mowjunk** · 12-08-2003, 02:12 PM

Originally posted by Flat-out
Can anyone comment on whether brwelder.com is as good as cyberweld? It looks like they are a bit cheaper and they have the Optrel helmet.

I have ordered machines from both. I got my Optrel from BR and my MM210 from Cyberweld. Both are good, but I found that Bob at BR seems to always be in a hurry. While I know that time is money, he needs to slow down just a bit. When I ordered the Optrel, he forgot to include the cheater lens and the bag I ordered with it. It was no problem. He sent it right out when I called, but there was a delay in getting all the stuff I ordered.

Along the same lines, I ordered my MM210 package from Cyberweld and they forgot to ship the cover. They sent it FEDEX and I got it on saturday. You can email Cyberweld and get a response. I had no such luck with BR. Never got an email response from him. And although he has a link to check on your order, it's hard to find and I couldn't ever make it work.

I'll order from Cyberweld before BR if they both have what I'm looking for. But, as in the case of the Optrel, if BR has it and Cyberweld doesn't, I'll order from BR without reservation.

Hope this helps you on your decision.....

Mow

**HAWK** · 12-22-2003, 06:54 AM

Jerry,

Yes, I am back up and at it. However, the weather here is cool (in the 20’s) and I am still moving slow. Congratulations on your new purchase. You will not be disappointed! Perhaps the learning curve for all the Dynasty’s features will frustrate you, but otherwise smooth sailing. Maybe you can help me when you get set up. I had thought about the circle cutting attachment, but have not pursued it. Let me know if you like it. Here’s little hint in the straight cutting: Clamp a 1” or so piece of 1/8” or 3/16” steel flat bar the required length of the cut on to your plate metal that is to be cut. Then use the drag tip on the 625 and pull or push the torch at a fairly slow, steady speed using the clamped metal as a guide for the tip to run against. Keep the torch at a 90 degree angle to your work for better cuts and less arc outages. You can also use the roller wheels that attach to the torch head (like I think you are buying). They work well, but take some practice.

Miller has a TIG CD, but I do not have it or know anything of it personally. I have heard it is good and I am sure it would not hurt me to order and review. Face it: Technology changes and we can always learn something new. I am always willing to listen and learn from the 12 year old boy with his first stick welder to the retired 85 year old man who made this his living since WWII. Check out www.millerwelds.com under resources for the TIG CD.

I still cannot confidently give you a thumbs up on the 375 plasma cutter. I think you’ll be happy with the 625 and have no regrets other than power requirements-not a 120v machine. The jig saw blades I use the most are the Bosch T118B and the T123X. The 123 cuts much faster, but burns up quick. It is a side set and ground blade that will rip on through the metal, but have plenty on hand! The T118B is a wavy set and milled blade. It cuts a little slower and takes a little more care in making the curves, but it is the best blade I have ever found. I mix antifreeze and thread cutting oil for the coolant. Add a few drops every ½” or so and your blades will love you lots. The Bosch T118EHM is a strip set carbide tipped blade that Bosch recommends for stainless steel. I have never used it. If you do not own a Bosch, they make most of these blades with a U prefix for all jig saws using a universal blade.

I can no longer find the toilet paper dryers. MAC tools has an excellent dryer filter that I use on my shop compressor. It is a kit with filter and threaded base. It just goes inline with your air supply after leaving the compressor. It is made by WATEGUARD FILTERS out of Houston Texas: 1-713-450-5900. Give them a call. Let me know how it goes.

My sincerest apologizes for dropping off for a while. As mentioned earlier, I have been sick and working like a dog,

BEST OF LUCK

**Flat-out** · 12-22-2003, 07:57 AM

HAWK,

Thanks for the reply. Certainly no need to apologize.

I will certainly be playing w/ all the buttons since I’m an engineer/scientist, so I’ll let you know.

I think the strip method should work good for cutting. That is a good way to cut wood w/ a circular saw and should work well w/ metal IMO.

I have purchased the student kit and the CD so we shall see. I’ll let you know.

I saved so much cash by going with BRWelder that I bought the 625. Hope it works well and isn’t overkill. As usual, having more capabilities is never regretted. So do you keep the plasma cutting settings the same regardless of mat’l and thickness or do you back off on thin stuff to save the tips? Also which settings do you play with?

How do you decide to choose the jig saw over the plasma cutter? Just wondering if I need the jig saw now?

AS far as dryers go, I thought you just have the little filter/separator (I mentioned the part number in my post)?

I purchased some 1/16 and 3/32 WCe and some 3/32 W1.5La. I have now come across some old posts on Hobart (there certainly are a lot more users there) that state that the ceriated stuff can’t take heat. It sounds like the 1.5 lanthanated can be used for DC and AC w/ the Dynasty. How many thicknesses do you use practically (ever hear of anyone using the 0.020 for hand use?) and which alloys do you use?

From the Hobart board I found this cheap-o blade grinding device from Plasplugs for grinding tungsten. Still wondering if just chucking something up in a drill will work since my space (and wife’s patience for the outgoing cash flow) is limited.

Any idea when any of the Miller guys will be back on the board?

Flat-out

**HAWK** · 12-22-2003, 08:28 PM

Flat-out,

I usually run my 2050 around 47 amps for most materials from 1/4" up to 1" thickness. Even though it will push 55 amps output I don't because it really drags my Trailbazer down and actually reduces the effective cutting thickness. For 3/16" and less I tune it down around 30 amps. I like to run the output as high as possible while still getting a good quality cut.

My neighbor's shop runs a 625 wide open for everything except 1/8" and under. Just experiment. Be sure to check your air pressure with the air flowing through the torch. Once you are getting a clean cut, then vary the amperage up and down 3-5 amps and see where your cleanest cut is achieved.

Tips are not that expensive and last fairly well unless you are cutting lots of aluminum. I like to clean the aluminum "needles" out of my tip every few linear feet of cutting. This greatly improves performance and tip life. Don't over tighten your torch nozzle assembly-finger tight only-not even hand tight. Over tightening can close up the gap necessary for establishing the pilot arc and create headaches you don't need. Most manufacturers recommend changing the electrode and the head parts when replacing the tip. I don't do it. That's not to say I'm correct, but it costs several dollars and I have not seen any performance benefits. I usually change the head guts when they look crusty and or can' get a good cut.

I do only have the water separater on my pontoon compressor in the field. I have a water separator and the Waterguard dessicant filter on my shop compressor. It seems to spit a lot more moisture. Well I had both until I recently broke my water separater.

I use a plasma cutter when there is a lot to be done or the metal is over 1/4" or thicker. I guess it depends on my mood.

**Flat-out** · 12-24-2003, 11:22 AM

Hawk,

Still wondering about tungsten types and diameters for the Dynasty.

See my previous post near the bottom.

Happy holidays

Flat-out

**mowjunk** · 12-24-2003, 03:11 PM

Flat-out,

I don't know if you've been here, but it may answer a few of your questions about different types of tungsten. It seems to be geared more toward the inverter type machines and not the Syncrowave type like I have...

http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/gtawbook.pdf

You can see more pamphlets here:

http://www.millerwelds.com/education/bookspamphlets.html

Hope this helps you....

And Merry Christmas to all!

Mow

**Flat-out** · 12-25-2003, 01:52 PM

Gracias MOW,

I hadn't seen that one.

I'm still wondering from those on the board whether folks actually use the really small diameters, or do most just use the 1/16 or 3/32 and turn it down for real thin stuff.

Flat-out

ps - went on a great hike today w/ the new dog - one of my first projects will be a "barrier" in the back of my Blazer to keep the mud and hair back there. They charge $70+ for those at Petsmart.

**mowjunk** · 12-25-2003, 03:52 PM

Flat, I have used a .040" tungsten, but I think the 1/16" and 3/32" would do for just about anything I weld. I don't have an inverter machine so I'm not sure if the smaller tungsten would be an advantage or disadvantage on the inverters. I have about three of the .040", just in case I would ever find a need.

If you build the barrier, don't forget to post a few pictures of it. We like pictures....

mow

**HAWK** · 12-26-2003, 12:36 AM

Flat-out,

In response to:

I purchased some 1/16 and 3/32 WCe and some 3/32 W1.5La. I have now come across some old posts on Hobart (there certainly are a lot more users there) that state that the ceriated stuff can’t take heat. It sounds like the 1.5 lanthanated can be used for DC and AC w/ the Dynasty. How many thicknesses do you use practically (ever hear of anyone using the 0.020 for hand use?) and which alloys do you use?

Tungsten alloys are available down to 1.0mm and 0.40inches. There may be smaller sizes that I am not familiar with. Here's a color code chart to identify types.

1% Thoriated (Yellow Tip)

2% THORIATED TUNGSTEN ELECTRODES (Red Tip)

PURE (Green Tip)

0.5 % ZIRCONIATED (Brown Tip)

1% ZIRCONIATED (White Tip)

1% LANTHINEATED (Black Tip)

1.5% LANTHINEATED (Gold Tip)

2% LANTHINEATED (Blue Tip)

2% CERIATED (Grey Tip)

3/32" and1/8" will do 90% of my work.

0.40, 1/16, 5/64" are my next choice for very fine work.

Ceriated won't take the heat on DCSP. However, it does fine for aluminum. I am sure specific prodeures for GTAW certs are written with specified diameters, %alloys, amps/voltage range, etc.I don't know all the parameters and reasons. Give me a procedure your in question of and I'll have my CWI take a look if you want. I use 1.5% lanthineated, and 1/8" ceriated in most cases. I have accumulated many alloys: mostly in 3/32" and 1/8". 5/32" and 3/16" are out there for heavier work. You won't need anything over 1/8" for the Dynasty 200DX unless you are playing with 50%/50% helium/argon or a hotter gas(more helium and less argon-i.e. 90%/10%.
I do like 2% thoriated for DCSP steel tig, but use "Chem-Sharp" or grind out of doors. I takes the heat well and likes the negative side of the wave-sine or square. Keep in mind I am speaking from my operating the Dynasty 200DX. The Syncrowaves and other machines perform different with these alloys due to their different arcs-non inverter type machines.

I hope your Christmas was great and Happy New Year!

**DEA** · 12-26-2003, 06:25 AM

Hawk or anyone
What kind of a difference will the 1.5% compared to the 2% make in the tungsten of
either lanth or ceri.?
Also do you have any pulser settings for the Dynasty 200 dx I could start out with?
And how well do the chem. sharpners work?Do you put a point on the tungsten and soak it in the chemical to resharpen it?
Thanks
DEA

**Flat-out** · 12-26-2003, 05:24 PM

HAWK and DEA,

It looks like I'll try the lanthanated (as in lanthanum, check spelling) and ceriated and see how it goes. The 1/16th and 3/32 should suit me for a while. I'll have to buy collets (right?) for the thinner stuff so I'll probably wait on that. Perhaps I'll try to buy one stick of thoriated for comparison.

I have the same questions about chem-sharp.

DEA - the 1.5% La is used since it's resisitance most closely matches 2% thoriated, and thus those that have used that for a while would not have to tweak thier settings when doing the "non-radioactive switch" to lanth. How the 2% compares in absolute performance I'm not sure.

My Dynasty has not shipped yet, but I'm trying to be patient...

I'll have plenty of pictures later, you guys won't believe what I'm doing w/ my new house and "Monster Carport" (hint - suspended workbench w/ hoist)

Flat-out

**H80N** · 12-26-2003, 06:02 PM

Guys
on the toilet paper filters... they used to be quite an item at county fairs and in the back of magazines during the 50's and early 60's.. for cars that did not come with an oe filter..(intended for motor oil but work wonderfully well at removing water from compressed air). made by a company called "FRANTZ" i believe... see them quite often at garage sales and flea markets...for a couple of bucks.. keep your eyes open.. ones that i have seen are usually chromed... will try to see if they are still made by someone.. and let you know
thanks
Heiti

Additional info: yep they are still being made.. but would probably still opt for one at a garage sale... here is a link to links with more than you ever wanted to know about them

frantz filter - Yahoo Search Results

http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=frantz+filter&ei=UTF-8&fr=fp-tab-web-t&cop=mss&tab=

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Plasma 375 120 V output, Dynasty DX

Plasma 375 120 V output, Dynasty DX

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