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I am wanting to start to weld on body panels for auto body, butt weld would be it.
right now I am welding on 1/8th mild steel with a 3/32 gas lens and 3/32 collet and I am getting fair results and starting to really like this diversion 180.
I thought the diversion had a quick setup right from the front panel? You'll probably want to switch to a 1/16" tungsten though. Straight polarity. And i would guess 40-50 amps, but I haven't run the diversion so I don't know how it welds. Do you have a pedal?
MillerMatic 251
Maxstar 150 STH
Cutmaster 42
Victor Journeyman OA
I would choose the tungsten you have, sharpen to a needle point, stay away from pure tungsten. 20 CFH argon. Set heat to where you burn through a scrap piece in 4 seconds, then use your pedal to avoid burn through. You are at a slight disadvantage with TIG in that it gives a larger heat affected zone than MIG. Minimize this by using quick heat, then get off it. A series of tacks alternating across the patch, keep the patch as small as practical. On a jeep you have flat surfaces, when the weld seam shrinks, it leaves the field puckered. Heat shrink these, and hammer and dolly on the seam.
Congratulations you have a great machine for thin steel. If you don't have a pedal, get one.
Dynasty 280DX
Bobcat 250
MM252
Spool gun
Twentieth Century 295
Twentieth Century 295 AC
Marquette spot welder
Smith torches
the TIG technique would be similar to what they showed w/MIG...
but much shorter stitches.. skipping around to minimize warpage
Take some time and practice on some scrap until you are confident with the technique...
for amperage... start out @ approx 1amp per thousandth thickness to get into the ballpark and adjust from there..
work that out on your practice pieces NOT on something that matters...
do not expect warp free sheet metal TIG butts overnight... it can take years of diligence to get there... and still require planishing with a hammer and dolly
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