Bracing up for in a barn

[Kpack]

I have taken out 2 horse stalls 12x12 each. I'm going add about 5 inchs of dirt and PAC it level and make storage and shelves. I would like to take that middle post out but trying to figure out how to brace that single 2x12 its about a 24 ft span I was thinking to use sq tubing drop down about 2 ft on the side posts and meet in the middle of the 2x12 but just not sure if that would do it.
It would make it easier to make the turn with the tractor bucket to put the dirt in there or lift something out if I need to.

[Broccoli1]

Can you add another column on each end and then put up another beam that will span the distance?
Double up on the 2x12 ??

Gotta be some builders n the forum with the knowledge of what size beam would cover 24' or at least get you 18' - 20' opening.

[CharleyL]

That may or may not work. It will depend on where you are located. The snow load can be a big factor and you haven't told us where you are located. How about going to "My Profile" at the top of this screen and adding it. The town and state will do. Is that just the roof above or is there something else up there? Removing the post is possible, but proper calculations on loading need to be made before choosing the method of reinforcement and I'm not the one to do it. I would seek help too.

Charley

[BD1]

It's hard to see in picture, is that just a single 2x12 face nailed to the side of the wood post ? Are those 2x12 spliced in between the posts ? If it is only a series of singe 2x12's and flat on backside of splice, I would think you could buy a microllam beam. this may help.

http://www.tdfs.ac.ir/reshteha/wood/pdf/2020.pdf

[Kpack]

I'm in Bryan tx. Yes it is a single 2x12 that is sliced barn was built in the sixties. It is just a metal roof .

[Kpack]

I've got some 2 3/8 pipe I was thinking I could make a truss wide as the 2x12 . Top and bottom and saddle some short ones in between them and make some fittings for the ends and go the 24 ft From post to post . It would fit right against the 2x12 and try to secure to it with lag bolts .

[Cgotto6]

I would be looking to replace the 2x12 with a glulam, or paralam. You would need to build a temporary wall to support the roof while you remove, cut down the posts it will rest on and slide in then shim and reattach the new beam. I do this by putting a 2x4 flat against the bottom of the rafters, running perpendicular to the rafters, securing it with a small nail at each rafter. Then right under each rafter, pound in a 2x4 stud to take the load off the posts. I cut the rake of the rafters on the top of the studs then just toe screw the studs to the 2x4 that's on the rafters. Once you get the new beam installed just disassemble the temp wall.

That would be more sturdy and cheaper/easier than trying to build some sort of exoskeleton frame to attach to the existing 2x12. I don't know of an engineer or inspector that would design or approve a set up like you were describing.

[BD1]

Ok, my neighbor a farmer has the same construction, no real load except snow .
He uses it for big round bale storage. Well, years ago he knocked it out with skid steer and a bale on the forks. Roof sagged some not bad. It is still like that today. He said that dam post was always in the way. He's gonna fix it someday !

[Fireman]

Laminated beam........

[Arizona Joe]

I've got some 2 3/8 pipe I was thinking I could make a truss wide as the 2x12 . Top and bottom and saddle some short ones in between them and make some fittings for the ends and go the 24 ft From post to post . It would fit right against the 2x12 and try to secure to it with lag bolts .

From the picture it appears that the 2x12 joists are nailed or bolted onto the face of the poles and are spliced together by a simple lap joint.

If that is true, then I understand what you want to do namely, to leave the existing joists in place and just prop them up before you remove the middle pole. You will then make steel joist hangers that will accept either a welded steel truss or a laminated beam. Finally, you will bolt the joists to the truss. The only thing I would suggest is to add a bearing surface from the truss to the rafters. After that the existing joists are really just nailers and are not being depended upon to carry any load.

I would design welded joist hangers, shaped like inverted square U's with a bracked welded to the side, so that they go over the top of the poles to hang the joist. I would also lag bolt both legs of the U to side of the pole. This would ensure that the truss is in line with the center of the pole.

I would not fabricate a steel truss out of 2 1/2" steel pipe because in the end you would have a very strong, heavy truss attached to the side of wooden poles making for an unbalanced design. Instead, I would use either a laminated beam or, preferably, a wooden truss. The truss is something you can buy or make out of 2x4s or perhaps 4x2s. I guess it would have to be around 24" deep. Ask a wooden truss manufacturer to recommend the appropriate size. I think the wooden truss would be the cheapest and, possibly, the lightest solution. On the other hand I think that a laminated beam would more expensive but neat and pretty. However, in my opinion, the Danish modern look of the laminated beam would not harmonize with your barn's decor.

Good luck and post some pix when your done.

[Kpack]

Thanks everybody . I didn't want to buy any thing just wanted to use what I had on hand. Money's tight as with everybody.
I'll have to think on it awhile. I don't know if I can get the glulam locally . I check that and the price.
Ps I welded up a truss of out of the 2 3/8 pipe but it is heavy I'll post a pic of it tonite . I did not try to install it I just needed to weld something I havnt welded anything in awhile.

[Kpack]

Here's what I got local. Lvl laminated veneer lumber.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laminated_veneer_lumber

[Kpack]

Well I got the beam up its wider than the exiting it was a 2/10.

[Kpack]

Another picture it worked good didn't drop any when I pulled the middle brace.

[BD1]

Good job ! You gonna love that open area for sure. next you will be saying that I should have done that sooner .