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Dynasty 350 HF Troubleshooting

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  • wumpscut223
    started a topic Dynasty 350 HF Troubleshooting

    Dynasty 350 HF Troubleshooting

    I started a thread requesting a service manual that evolved into troubleshooting. I can't delete that thread, but I'd like to consolidate it into a "troubleshooting" thread. I'll paste the relevant parts into this first post and this way it will have an accurate title.

    ----
    Ok... I finally got the machine hooked up. For those of you who requested the usage stats they are - 415 hours and 135308 cycles. The Unit SN is LH500798L
    I completed a factory reset per the owners manual.

    Today I tested both AC and DC and found them to be functional using the Lift Arc method.

    I checked and cleaned the HF points and set them to .010. HF did not work at all no matter the pedal position or AC/DC. What is my next troubleshooting step?
    -------------------------------------------------------------------
    Cruizer
    I appear to be the only one with that info, but it won't help you.

    Only 2 checks to make

    RC1 check for 325VoltsDC bewteen RC1-1 to RC1-3, unit on at idle

    RC2 check for +15 volts DC between RC2-1 to RC2-2 HF off
    Check for 0 volts HF on

    Or 700HZ betwwen RC2-1 and RC2-2 HF on

    If that is there, all is happy and you need a new PC-7 Replacing parts on this board is probably NOT a good thing. as it may dynamite the rest of the machine.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------
    ME
    RESULTS
    I was finally home enough time to check the welder as requested. The results are below:

    RC1-1 to RC1-3: 321VDC stable
    RC2-1 to RC2-2: 0 volts pedal up or down
    RC2-1 to RC2-2: Frequency is unstable when pedal is down and reads in the Mhz (most likely induced voltage from RF)

    During testing the HF worked intermittently (for the first time) and gave both a very strong and sharp crackle for the first few minutes and later on it was about half as loud before stopping. DC voltage never showed on the RC2-1 to RC2-2. I wore rubber linesman gloves and welding gloves and wiggled the RC2 and RC1 wires while depressing the pedal to see if I had any loose connections. That did not change my results.

    If anyone knows how to troubleshoot further I appreciate the assist. Is there a component I should check on the PC-6 tracing it back to the RC14-1 and RC14-8 on the PC6 board? What outputs the 15VDC and 700Hz signals?
    Last edited by wumpscut223; 12-03-2013, 11:40 AM.

  • elvis
    replied
    Thanks for coming back and telling us the result. Wish more threads would have a closeout with solution.

    And now back to welding!

    Leave a comment:


  • wumpscut223
    replied
    This info is for anyone who has a similar problem. My original idea regarding the source that drives the HF board was correct. PC6 SENDS the signal to the PC7 board that tells the PC7 board how fast and when to make HF. The 700Hz signal that we couldn't find was not coming out of the PC6.

    I replaced my PC6 board with a brand new PC6. Problem solved. The initial info from the troubleshooting/service manual was good.

    Thanks for your help over those weeks Cruizer.

    Case closed.
    Last edited by wumpscut223; 01-19-2014, 04:07 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • wumpscut223
    replied
    Aww, this is just as I was beginning to have fun... I don't want to give up.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    Pay the piper, and take the unit in to a CST Miller tech. If they have no CST guys, take it, or send it somewhere else.

    Leave a comment:


  • wumpscut223
    replied
    The only two items you mentioned that I couldn't check are:

    Torch - I don't have a second one to test

    Relays - I don't see anything externally burnt, but I don't know which I need to check. I finished most of the Troubleshooting section last night:

    Pg 82 Schematic Test Values
    R1,R2 =.3Ohm
    R3,R4 = 198 and 200 ohm
    R5 = I couldn't find where to check
    R6 = I couldn't find where to check
    R7 = One of the contacts here is labeled HF-XFMR (High Frequency Transformer?) I don't know how to test R7 because of the C3 capacitor in series with BUS-CTR. It appears this is a winding on T1. T1 pins are unlabeled on the PC3 board. Do you know how the pins are assigned?
    R8 = .2Ohm
    R9 = .3Ohm
    R10 = .5Ohm

    V1 = 16.1
    V2 = I don't know where to check. I don't see violet wires as labeled. This appears to be on T2, the main torriod transformer. I don't see any violet wires leaving it.
    V3 = 234
    V4 = 116.6
    V5 = 18.9
    V6 = 18.9
    V7 = 676
    V8 = 25V? Why is this low?
    V9 = 468
    V10 = 468
    V11 = Not checked
    V12 = -15
    V13 = +15
    V15 = No Voltage This should read +24, right?
    V16 = No Voltage This should read +24, right?
    V17 = +15
    V18 = +10
    V19 = +12 and waveform is good.


    PC1 Test Point Values
    RC1-1 to RC1-2 = 3.7
    RC2-1 to RC2-4 = 934
    RC6-3 to RC6-7 = 3.7
    RC6-5 = 14.7
    RC6-9 = 5
    RC6-11 = 5
    RC6-12 = 5 - The description says this means I have a Primary error? No help codes are displayed, do you agree this should read 0? If so what should I check?
    RC6-13 = 18.8
    RC7-1 = 15
    RC7-2 = 15
    RC8-1 to RC8-2 = 15
    RC8-3 to RC8-2 = 4.8

    LEDS ALL OFF

    PC3 Test Point Values
    RC20 to RC21 = .6? This voltage is out of limits
    RC25-1 to RC25-3 = .4 Is this OK?
    RC26-1 to RC26-2 = 16
    RC26-4 to RC26-5 = 16

    PC5 Test Point Values
    RC1 Checks = Tested as per PG 86
    RC2 Checks = Tested as per PG 86
    RC5 Checks = Tested as per PG 86
    RC7-1 to RC7-2 = 15
    RC7-9 to RC7-2 = No Wire, No volts noted - This isn't correct is it?
    RC7-16 to RC7-10 = 935
    RC8-1 to RC8-3 = 321.6
    RC9-1 to RC9-6 = 16
    RC9-3 to RC9-10 = No Wire Present (Do I need a probe that will fit deeply into the socket?)
    RC9-4 to RC9-5 = No Wire Present
    RC9-8 to RC9-10 = 18.8
    RC9-9 to RC9-5 = Not Checked
    RC10-1 = Not Checked
    RC10-2 = Not Checked
    RC11-1 = Not Checked
    RC11-2 = Not Checked
    RC11-4 = Not Checked
    RC11-5 = Not Checked
    RC11-6 = 25 Is this OK?

    LED1 = OFF


    PC6 Test Point Values
    RC1-1 = 0
    RC1-2 = 0
    RC1-3 = 0
    RC11-1 = 3.6
    RC11-2 = 3.7
    RC11-3 = No Wire
    RC11-7=4.9
    RC11-14 = 5
    RC11-15 = 5
    RC11-16 = 14.7
    RC13-22 = 15
    RC14-1 to RC-14-8 = Erratic with Amphenol A-B jumpered or not.
    RC14-3 = 25
    RC15-2 = 14.6
    RC15-3 = 4.9
    RC15-4 = 4.9
    RC15-6 = 4.2
    RC15-12 = 4.9
    RC15-14 = 4.9
    RC15-17 = 4.9 Does this seem high?
    RC15-18 = 4.9 Does this seem high?
    RC16-1 = +15
    RC16-2 = -15
    RC16-3 = =25
    RC16-4 = -25
    RC17-2 = 4.9
    RC18-6 = 10
    RC18-8 = 15

    PC7 Test Point Values
    RC1-1 to RC1-3 = 321.6
    RC2-1 to RC2-2 = Erratic. No appreciable voltage, no steady ~700hz.

    PC8 Test Point Values
    RC1-1 to RC1-2 = 16
    RC1-3 to RC1-6 = 4.9
    RC1-4 to RC1-5 = 16.1
    RC1-9 to RC1-8 = No Wire at RC1-8
    RC2-1 to RC2-4 = 935


    What do you think?

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    We never measure to frame ground from the hots, mostly because it means NOTHING. Anyway, just reopened the online manual, and that is correct.

    So have a looksee at the other stuff I mentioned. I'm leaving for the day and don't answer posts at home.

    Leave a comment:


  • wumpscut223
    replied
    The two hot wires from the breaker (Black and white) are hooked to the two top lugs of the switch in the welder. I am running it single phase. Measured between them is a perfect 239VAC. Measured between either one and the ground is 120VAC.
    Last edited by wumpscut223; 12-02-2013, 03:44 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    Did you use the Black and the white wires for the welder, or did you use the red.

    Don't really care much where the panel is, The ground rod is kinda pointless unless you know exactly what the soil conditions are

    Leave a comment:


  • wumpscut223
    replied
    The correct SN is - LH500798L. I do understand that HF is not continuous 100%, but with my torch isolated from the workpiece and pedal depressed or A-B jumpered the HF spark gap should be continuious until a weld arc is sensed by the machine.

    The outlet I plug my welder into is a NEMA6-50 wired into a subpanel for the garage. The garage subpanel has a good ground rod driven into the ground about 4 feet from the panel. The welder outlet wiring runs straight into the subpanel and is tied into the ground bus. There are no other active circuits in that panel while I'm welding.
    Last edited by wumpscut223; 12-02-2013, 01:02 PM.

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  • cruizer
    replied
    maybe get me the correct serial# too

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Now the HF only starts the arc, doesn't matter if its AL or steel. The inverter monitors the arc after starting, so thats all your after. But you realize this right.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    [QUOTE=wumpscut223;314689]Cruizer,

    I appreciate you playing the game with me...I can reason through most of those...

    Bad Relay? Very possible

    Bad Remote? Possible but if A to B engages HF, when the remote is working, everything should be working and it is not. So - I think this is highly unlikely.
    Still possible if the pedals control cable has shorted into the potententiometer leads

    Bad torch conduit/short - It could be possible, but HF would be running strong on the PC7 card all the time. When HF isnt running on the torch end, the spark gap isn't running on the torch end. I think also unlikely. If the torch cable conduit is bad you'll still get some output but hf will not travel throughit well and back feed

    Working on a table with a non-isolated plug? I'm not sure what you mean by this. A lot of my welding is done on the ground, cement floor. Alot of people weld on a outlet box, with non isolated receptacles, this mkes the table live, The machine doesn't like it much.

    Primary wrong? I'm not sure what you mean there. 3 phse machine. If you use the red on single phase, there isn't much auxillary, and bad things will occur.

    What relays are you concerned with? Which relay is controlling the +15VDC that goes to the PC7? I will be with the machine the next 6 hours and can check for you as needed

    Leave a comment:


  • wumpscut223
    replied
    Cruizer,

    I appreciate you playing the game with me...I can reason through most of those...

    Bad Relay? Very possible

    Bad Remote? Possible but if A to B engages HF, when the remote is working, everything should be working and it is not. So - I think this is highly unlikely.

    Bad torch conduit/short - It could be possible, but HF would be running strong on the PC7 card all the time. When HF isnt running on the torch end, the spark gap isn't running on the torch end. I think also unlikely.

    Working on a table with a non-isolated plug? I'm not sure what you mean by this. A lot of my welding is done on the ground, cement floor.

    Primary wrong? I'm not sure what you mean there.

    What relays are you concerned with? Which relay is controlling the +15VDC that goes to the PC7? I will be with the machine the next 6 hours and can check for you as needed.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    See the problem is that everything test fine, and your HF should be working, A & B jumpered runs the contactor, HF, Gas and such.

    Do we have a bad relay" (relays are board mounted)

    Do we have a failed relay in the pedal. possible, bad remote all together? possible.

    Bad conduit in the torch, possible, Short to frame ground? possible,

    Working on a table with a non osolated grinder plug? possible

    Primary cable hooked up wrong by using the red lead? Possible

    Just too many variables. This machine is extremely error sensitive, but its not pulling any.

    I just don't know unless it was sitting in my shop.

    Leave a comment:

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