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  • Bob Miller
    started a topic Lincoln SAE 300

    Lincoln SAE 300

    I had this SAE300 given to me because the engine is froze.
    So what I would like to know is:
    Does this machine weld like the SA-200s?
    Is there a interest in these machines like the SA-200s?
    The rest of the machine is in good condition, straight, no rust, fairly clean.
    Is it worth rebuilding the engine?
    Should I just get 10 cents a pound scrap?
    It has a 6 cyl. Continental engine.
    It's 7' long, I could put a complete SA-200 inside the frame work.
    I pulled the intake/exhaust manifold off and mud ran out of the exhaust ports and the intake ports had rust also but they where clean.
    I'll see what you guys say before I pull the head.
    Good Luck,
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob Miller; 10-04-2013, 02:34 PM. Reason: spelling and wording

  • D Auger
    replied
    Any luck on this one I know it's a old thread but I have my eye on a 1947 sae300 with a Hercules six?
    Did ya get it unstuck ?D

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  • Can You Weld This For Me?
    replied
    If you have the head off pour them standing full over the top of the piston and give them a love tap a couple of times a day.
    Originally posted by Bob Miller View Post
    I have not tried the white vinegar thing.
    I'll try that next.
    Thank you,
    Bob

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  • Sberry
    replied
    I think the guy drove from Iowa to get the last one. I should and could have got 500 more for it but it moved in a flash and had very few hrs on it. The one I have now has had a hew engine in it I believe. The hood is a replacement but all the workmanship is very good. I cleaned the fuel tank and added a shut off.
    Attached Files

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  • Bob Miller
    replied
    Originally posted by Sberry View Post
    If I was closer would give you an engine.
    If you were closer to me I'd buy your SA-200.
    Good Luck,
    Bob

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  • Sberry
    replied
    If I was closer would give you an engine.

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  • Bob Miller
    replied
    I have not tried the white vinegar thing.
    I'll try that next.
    Thank you,
    Bob

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  • Can You Weld This For Me?
    replied
    Bob, have you tried filling the cylinders with white vinegar and letting it sit a few days? Vinegar will eat rust pretty good.

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  • Tryagn5
    replied
    heat the walls not the oil.

    Simply fill the cylinder, heat the walls of the cylinder, oil will smoke, no need to stick the flame on the oil, it will not burn right away, trick is to expand the cylinder walls, while keeping piston slightly cooler, the heated oil will wick its way into the rings and down the cylinder. If cylinder walls are heavily rusted i would run a bead hone to knock it off before turning the engine over, heavily rusted walls will likely stop at the first or second ring, very easy for a stuck ring to break when it hits the rust wall. Cylinder will need to be cleaned with soap and water. Must be clean or the abrasives from the bead home will ruin the cylinder walls fast. Once free work the hone to elimate the rust from the cylinder. If all else fails get a large wooden cylinder slightly smaller then the engine bore and smack each piston, normally at this point the engine needs rebuilding,
    Kevin

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  • kiwi
    replied
    Originally posted by Tryagn5 View Post
    As someone who has rebuilt many engines, i can assure you that the rings even if you free the pistons are stuck completely to the pistons and will ruin this engine almost instantly if you manage to free it and fire it up. Have you tried the motor oil trick, with the propane torch? This has worked for me in the past. If the walls of the cylinder are completely rusted, use a flex hone first to knock off the rust then beat them out, also what model of contiental is this, most all of the older ones were wet sleeved engines.
    Kevin
    Kevin,
    I am not familiar with this technique. How is it done with a propane torch?
    Thanks,
    Nick

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  • Bob Miller
    replied
    227

    Originally posted by Tryagn5 View Post
    As someone who has rebuilt many engines, i can assure you that the rings even if you free the pistons are stuck completely to the pistons and will ruin this engine almost instantly if you manage to free it and fire it up. Have you tried the motor oil trick, with the propane torch? This has worked for me in the past. If the walls of the cylinder are completely rusted, use a flex hone first to knock off the rust then beat them out, also what model of contiental is this, most all of the older ones were wet sleeved engines.
    Kevin
    I think it's a 227. It has the late model oil filler cap. Half of the head bolts broke off in the block.
    Ok so I heat the motor oil with a torch. Like the flame right on the oil. Will the oil flash and burn.
    I got a quote of 2800 to over haul it.
    I think it is just like a SA-200 except smaller bore and 2 more pistons. If it had the same size bore as a 200 the CID would 244.
    Thank you,
    Good Luck,
    Bob

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  • Tryagn5
    replied
    try this...

    As someone who has rebuilt many engines, i can assure you that the rings even if you free the pistons are stuck completely to the pistons and will ruin this engine almost instantly if you manage to free it and fire it up. Have you tried the motor oil trick, with the propane torch? This has worked for me in the past. If the walls of the cylinder are completely rusted, use a flex hone first to knock off the rust then beat them out, also what model of contiental is this, most all of the older ones were wet sleeved engines.
    Kevin

    Leave a comment:


  • Dobermann
    replied
    Before you go to the heavy demolition procedures, try this one other thing. My father-in-law was a master at getting rusted things loose. His formula was to use a good penetrating oil--one of the "Blasters" or "Kroils" will do and then combine that with a rather gentle tapping of the subject parts. Nothing severe, but enough to get them to vibrate. You apply the "elixir" and tap the top of each piston for a little while. You then go away for the rest of the day and come back the next day and "tap, tap, tap." Go away, come back and some more tap, tap, tap. Causing the parts to vibrate allows the "elixir" to work its way into the joints between the parts.

    Given enough patience and enough of the magic juice, you should be able to get parts to move again.

    Now this assumes that the reason the engine is stuck is due to corrosion and not due to some sort of thermal melt-down caused by running the engine out of oil or coolant. If it's seized because of that sort of stuff, it probably can't be made to turn.

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Well then, you have to remove the oil pan, remove the connecting rod caps, and pound the pistons out. However, the pistons are now destroyed

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  • Bob Miller
    replied
    Still Frozen

    This is my second time to write this post. I must have worded the other post incorrectly as the web master would not post it?

    I poured diesel in the cylinders and stuff red rags down the cylinders.
    I then set it on fire all the while trying to break it loose with 2 ft' long wrench.
    All I did was tighten the pulley bolt. I burned for over an hour.
    So I covered the pistons with PB Blaster penetrating oil.
    2 weeks later still nothing. In fact the oil is still on top of the pistons.
    The crankshaft is in a position so the 1 and 6 cylinders are down a about 2''.
    Should I try an air hammer on piece of shaft the same size as the piston?
    Again with the big wrench at the same time?
    Thanks again,
    Good Luck,
    Bob

    Leave a comment:

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