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Iim a weldor not a mechanic

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  • #16
    Check the pick up in the fuel tank. It was a flimsy set up in the older machines. It may be losing its prime.


    • #17
      if you changed your fuel filter make sure you have the flow arrow in the right direction or it will run for a minute or two then shut down


      • #18
        Try a double dose of Seafoam in the tank. Most "Drygas" is nothing more than ethanol The same stuff you are trying to get rid of. You can also get some Seafoam spray and spray the carb throat. As far as draining the gas in the tank use a hose and siphon it out add fresh gas. Pull your plugs DRY them gap them reinstall and try again.


        • #19
          This has all been good advice and Im glad to see you got it running right.

          This is for anyone else in trouble.

          When you check the plugs for spark, it has to be a BLUE spark. If the spark is orange, that indicates that your coil is likely bad. An orange spark will not jump the gap and light a fire under compression.
          Who do you call when the lawmakers ignore the law?

          Miller AC/DC Thunderbolt 225
          Miller 180 w/Autoset
          Old cutting torch on LPG


          • #20
            STA-BIL is your friend for all small engines this time of year, or when they sit for prolonged periods. I've used it for many years (motorcycles, mowers, cars, trucks, my spare fuel in jerrycans) and it saves much suffering. I ignore the directions and use much more than recommended. Run the engine so your treated fuel makes it to the carb or injectors, depending on the engine.

            I don't get paid to clean my own carbs and the rebuild kits aren't cheap any more.

            BTW you can dip carbs in Pine-Sol (don't use generic pine oil, something in Pine-Sol works even better) and it works better than all other carb dips I've tried over decades. Doesn't munch plastic either, and you can do carbs in the kitchen sink which helps with convenient hot water for flushing. Smells like a "G.I. Party" so vets may get nostalgic.


            • #21
              "Dry Gas" is not ethanol. The good stuff is isopropyl alcohol. The cheap stuff is methanol and should be avoided at all costs. I've had success with fixing water issues in gasoline with Dry Gas even though most of the gasolines available these days have 10% ethanol in them. You'd think that the ethanol would help with water issues but it doesn't and seems to make almost everything worse.

              A little bottle of Dry Gas will only cost a couple of bucks, it won't hurt anything, and it may actually make the thing run.

              See if you can find gasoline without ethanol in it. It's nearly impossible in some states but as a last resort, try to find an airport which has "MoGas" available. It's non-ethanol unleaded gasoline for airplanes and most places will sell it to you in your gas can even if you don't drive up in your airplane. Expect to pay $4.00 to $5.00 a gallon for it but it's well worth it. Carburetors for small engines cost $100 to $200 or more and the good fuel is well worth the cost.


              • #22
                Am I the only one (besides Flying Pig) that noticed the change of title back on post # 15??

                "I had the carbureator cleaned properly by an expert and it runs like new"

                Rather than additives, I've just gone to straight gas for all but my cars and trucks, this link may help.


                It's typically as much as a buck more a gallon, but I'm sick and tired of trying to get a saw or weed eater to run with that "congressional" gas crap
                so it's cheap peace of mind IMO... Steve
                Last edited by BukitCase; 12-01-2013, 12:42 AM.


                • #23
                  I had a bobcat like yours it got wet one time and the water got down in the carb and stopped up the idle jet. Seems like it was on the back side of the carb pretty hard to get too. Opened it up and blew it out with light air pressure was good to go after that.