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I have got my Dynasty up and running, it's a nice machine, my welds are looking good, except for I always get craters at the end of my welds. Currently I'm playing around on some scrap steel that I have lying around in the garage, I have tried easing off the heat at the end, but that almost seems to make it worse. Post flow is set for 3 seconds. What am I doing wrong?
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Try setting your post flow to 30 seconds. This will keep both the tungsten and weld pool from being contaminated during the cooling process. Are you pulling your filler rod out before the end of the weld? Keep your torch at the end of the weld until the post flow shuts off. If you lifting your torch before the weld pool solidifies, you will get craters. Carbon steel requires generous amounts of filler to keep from undercutting and cratering out.
If this does not cure the problem, post again. Maybe take a look at free hand and adding filler as required versus walking the cup and keeping the filler in the puddle. -
Increasing the post flow didn't do anything. At the end of my welds, it seems like the crater area bubbles, then bursts. If it doesn't burst, it still bubbles, and a light tap with a hammer will burst the bubble once it's cooled. I have tried bringing the heat down gradually, I dunno what's going on. What kinds of things will cause craters?Comment
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What is the
Frequency set to and what is the balance set to? Try reducing the balance so the arc doesn't dig so hard.Mike. R
Dynasty 300dx tig runner w/ 3 torch Versa-Tig torch changer {wt-20f, wt-24f, mt-125}
MM 251/30a/4015 roughneck
Miller portable spot welder
Inferno >>> Big Window EliteComment
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You may have some settings out of wack. Check your manual,around page 27, and reset the machine to factory defaults. I understand from your original post you are working with carbon steel. If you are working with aluminum on AC, then check your balance and frequency settings as Blackplauge suggested.
Good LuckComment
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yup carbon steel... I'll play around with it tomorrow again, going to clean everything again, and start from square one.Comment
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It's hard to get a pic of the problem, but maybe this will help?Comment
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I don't know what i was thinking
about when i made the post about the frequency setting. Looks like i didn't read the first post good enough. Those bubbles can be caused by a lot of things {moisture in the argon bottle, low argon flow or too much flow , low grade steel}. I get that when my torch angle or torch height is off. Try moving in with the torch a little more and try bringing the torch angle up and see if that helps.Mike. R
Dynasty 300dx tig runner w/ 3 torch Versa-Tig torch changer {wt-20f, wt-24f, mt-125}
MM 251/30a/4015 roughneck
Miller portable spot welder
Inferno >>> Big Window EliteComment
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Welcome to the forum newbiematt.....You are going to need some practice with those tig welds *chuckles*...To solve the problem with the craters is kind of lay off the foot pedal and adjust the fine tuning amperage to a good setting for the type of thickness of the material.Make sure your tungsten is never contaminated before welding any project because you WILL notice flaws in your welds such as these.BTW make sure you use the correct tungsten and filler as well.Use correct gas flow.Those are some tips.Enjoywhoomp there it isComment
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Matt,
Those craters or what I call volcanos ('cause they pop at the end) is usually cause by contamination in the material, gas or tungsten/cup. Mostly I see this with bad material. Rusty, oxidized, hot rolled mill scale, oil, etc...
Flow rates too high can cause this too. Try a 15-20 CFH flow and 10-15 sec post flow.
AndyComment
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