While I was tig welding aluminum my welder went to full amps and blew up the part I was welding. After trying other things I discovered it will weld on the panel setting but as soon as you push the remote pedal it goes to the max amp setting , there is no control with the pedal. I sent the remote pedal to be checked and it is operating properly. My welder serial number is LG 030068L if this helps. Thanks for any assistance .. John
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If it welds fine on the panel setting...
Even though you have had the pedal checked... I would not rule it out... it is not uncommon for a pedal or cable to have an intermittant problem that may not show up all the time..
maybe some cut insulation.. overstretched wire.. break in the connector shell..??
They tend to lead a pretty tough life...
Have you tried another known good pedal and see how it acts.. just to be sure??Last edited by H80N; 09-14-2013, 07:45 AM..
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The more you know, The better you know, How little you know
“The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”
Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...
My Blue Stuff:
Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
Dynasty 200DX
Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
Millermatic 200
TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000
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I've been having the same problem on the same machine.
I re-installed my board after repairs from Radwell($675), and still welds like 500amps on AC.
Ordered a new remote and current transducer(Hall-LEM) today.
I'll check back if successful.
Plan B is the dumpster.Syncrowave 250 DX
MillerMatic 212
Hypertherm plaz
Coors light on tap
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If the machine is maxed out in local and remote then, yes its the LEM ALWAYS.
Now if it the remote plugged in, then and it goes to max, but not in local, and that local would be NON HF by the way Then the remote or remote cord is damaged. If the unit comes on, with HF & Gas via the remote but no control (ie weld power goes to where ever you have the local set to), its either the remote, or the 14 pin board behind the receptacle on the machine.
I don't believe that your remote was checked, least wise not properly. Tends to be everyone says that thier remote has been checked, but it turns out to be the remote. Its kinda irritating as I go through the wiring diagrams for you in this case.
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Cruizers word is gospel, I wish I had listened to him instead of my local Miller shop.(that would have saved me $675)(no evidence of repair from Radwell).
I'll still update when my LEM and pedal arrives.
Ironic that some of my work is going to Weatherford AL on Roper Rd. AB.Syncrowave 250 DX
MillerMatic 212
Hypertherm plaz
Coors light on tap
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250
Originally posted by cruizer View PostIf the machine is maxed out in local and remote then, yes its the LEM ALWAYS.
Now if it the remote plugged in, then and it goes to max, but not in local, and that local would be NON HF by the way Then the remote or remote cord is damaged. If the unit comes on, with HF & Gas via the remote but no control (ie weld power goes to where ever you have the local set to), its either the remote, or the 14 pin board behind the receptacle on the machine.
I don't believe that your remote was checked, least wise not properly. Tends to be everyone says that thier remote has been checked, but it turns out to be the remote. Its kinda irritating as I go through the wiring diagrams for you in this case.
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no control
Originally posted by cruizer View PostEXACTLY, the pins on the remote board that sits behind the remote amphenol has desoldered itself. Just resolder it.
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Originally posted by jhorton View PostI took the small circuit board off the pins and resoldered it, still have the problem. What are the functions of the 5 pins on the foot pedal ?
3-10. Remote 14 Receptacle Information
page # 14 of this manual..
Here is the manual for the RFC-14 Pedal
Diagram 7-1 shows pins also..
Last edited by H80N; 09-30-2013, 07:26 PM..
*******************************************
The more you know, The better you know, How little you know
“The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”
Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...
My Blue Stuff:
Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
Dynasty 200DX
Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
Millermatic 200
TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000
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New board from Miller installed. Works like a champ now.
New board came as an upgrade kit:
Resistor, and mounting plate
bridge rectifier
4 new wires, installed per instructions
wiring diagram update.Syncrowave 250 DX
MillerMatic 212
Hypertherm plaz
Coors light on tap
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