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  • HAWK
    replied
    Terence638,

    He removed some anodized with an angle grinder fitted a wire brush. Not all the material was anodized as this was a fresh water lake marina. Much of the aluminum around there is lacquered or something similar.

    You can extend your work leads and even your cooler leads. I extended a set of cooler hoses once for a mobile application and it worked fine. I used a hose and fitting shop to do the torch line work. Here is the kicker: It is a royal pain to maintain these little lines when back in the shop in confined quarters unless you were to install quick disconnects.

    I would prefer an power extension cord as Mike W suggested unless you are unable to move the machine around.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike W
    replied
    I don't see why not. You would just have to have the adapters to connect some more hoses and cables together.

    Leave a comment:


  • Terence638
    replied
    Mike,
    Ive git a 75' cord on the machine itswelf but when i pull a boat into the shop the machine has to be practicly next to the boat so I can get all the way around it to work . thats why im wonderiing if i can extend the leads and hoses
    Thanks
    Terence

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike W
    replied
    Terence638, would it not be easier to make a longer power cord?

    Leave a comment:


  • Terence638
    replied
    Xseabea
    welcome to the site it is a really informative site.
    sorry to jump on your thread about this q hope you dont mind
    Hanwk
    Im wondering about the spool gun your buddy used at the boat dock
    most marine aluminum is annodized was there a lot of cleaning on the pipe?
    is the spool gun sufficient enough to weld on the annodized pie or is there a lot of prep work invovled?
    I love my syncrowave 250 but it limits me to the shop and even then it limits me to be within 25' of the machine to work with. which brings me to another q can i extend my leades on the machine in order to have more radius to work with? IE the water cooled leads an the ground and work connections.
    You can email me a [email protected] if you dont want to keep jumping on this thread
    Terence

    Leave a comment:


  • Bulldog
    replied
    Engloid,
    Wow - what great pics! The welds look fantastic! I was showing my son the pics and he went wild. Now he says that he want's a tig setup... He's a good welder but he's not ready for tig just yet. Anyway GREAT JOB!
    Bulldog

    Leave a comment:


  • KB Fabrications
    replied
    Originally posted by xseabee
    hawk, does your tungston get comtaminated when you scratch start?
    Good question and as HAWK stated, there may be some MINIMAL contamination invloved. He also stated that it has been used for years which means that it is tried and true for its particular application.

    As for Lift-Arc, I have used this on my Dynasty 200DX with amazing results. I recently welded some very small stainless parts, small machined blocks joined to 1" x 3" x .045" blanks, that could have absolutely no arc marks on them. It was hard enough just to ground these things let alone have zero arc wander on start-up. After a few test pieces didn't go so well using HF start, I switched the Dynasty to Lift-Arc and the rest of the job went flawlessly. Also, after 40 of these things I only changed my tungsten once and it wasn't because of the Lift-Arc, if you know what I mean. It is a great feature for certain applications and another feature that sets the Dynasty apart from its transformer-based cousins.

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul Seaman
    replied
    Xseebee:
    Welcome aboard, I have been in welding classes for several years and have used many different machines and the syncwaves are formidable machines, but they are very heavy and draw alot of current. I have used Dynasty 300DX's and I really believe the sync's are good machines but a Dynasty can make me look good then it will make an accomplished welder oh sooooo much better. The waveshaping features and pulse make it a dream.

    I have only begun to learn the potential of my D200DX and love it. Oh by the way can we say its light, only 45 pounds+ accessories. It also has MVI technology{multi voltage input- 110v,230v,460v it will accept them all} its really plug and play!

    I think if you get a test drive on a Dynasty you'll be hooked.

    Weld well,

    ps, Your welcome to come north and I'll let you try mine.

    Leave a comment:


  • Engloid
    replied
    Hawk

    I just noticed you're in Knoxville, as am I.

    Please email me at EngloidATdespammed.com

    The board here says you're not accepting email from other users.

    Leave a comment:


  • HAWK
    replied
    I have friend who took a spoolgun, Hi Freq unit, tig torch, argon , and engine drive to a boat dock for a one customer job. He ended up working all day long on boat ladders, rails, cracks, etc. He made out like a bandit! ALL ALUMINUM!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • xseabee
    replied
    Iwould love to go portable but i don't know if there is enough business in my area..I was told by a few people that if i could weld alum, they would line up at my door. I guess I shouldn't talk about it I should just do it!!

    Leave a comment:


  • HAWK
    replied
    I'm sure there is some tungsten contamination from scratch starts and the base metal will also have some tungsten in it as well. The 301G Trailblazer has a dedicated "scratch start circuit" that helps to minimize the contamination. You can further minimize this by scratch starting on a "start block" ( a piece of metal the same as your base metal to be welded) and quickly transfering the arc to the welding base metal. I've never run any X-ray test to see the degree of contamination. I can't pick it up with my eyes. If it's a truly critical X-ray tested weld, then I would vote for a Hi Freq start with the proper tungsten for the particular weldment as called for in the certification procedure.

    Scratch starts have been done for years. Lift arc technology has not always been around. You can scratch start with just about any DC machine and a dry rig torch setup.

    Hope this helps.

    Leave a comment:


  • xseabee
    replied
    hawk, does your tungston get comtaminated when you scratch start?

    Leave a comment:


  • HAWK
    replied
    The Sync 250 is a nice machine. I don't have much experience with it. I TIG in a residential location and power input is limited. The Dynasty DX fits my power requirements and is very portable for mobile use. I have a Trailblazer 301G and do some scratch TIG on DC, but use the Dynasty for all my AC road work. It does not have the top end amperage of the Sync 250, but it serves my purpose well. Is it better? Just depends on your application. I need mobile portability and 230 single phase power drawing less than 30 amps. I have ordered a coolmate to use with the scratch start on my engine drive and a 300 amp torch with valve for the heavier DC work. I think the potential for the Dynasty 200 DX is incredible and have had no problems.

    Have a good day.

    Leave a comment:


  • xseabee
    replied
    Hawk, I am in crossville about 60 miles west of you . Why do you like the inverter? is it better? I used a syncrowave 250 ,at the pontoon boat shop ,and it worked great.

    Leave a comment:

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