12/3 so p 123-72-msha

[Hardrock40]

Got about 200' of this for 20 bucks. A friend had it in his shop and never used it due to the weight and length.

Running from an engine drive to a 211, how long would I be able to make an extension cord? I have seen post about this but not finding out enough.

Here in the manual for the 211, page 22

When calculating max. cord length, remember to include conductor length from line disconnect device to input power receptacle.
Input Voltage
Input Power
Phase Hertz Conductor Size Max. Cord Length
120 V 1 60 14 AWG 27 ft (8 m)
230 V 1 60 14 AWG 53 ft (16 m)

http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o239988j_mil.pdf

And that's 14 gage that you can run 230v twice as far as a 120v?

Anyway, What would be the max length with 12/3 SO from the engine drive 230V receptacle? if possible?

I have made a few extension cords but always thought 12/3 was too small so I figured I would ask if this can be used with 230 for the 211.

[Broccoli1]

You could run it out 100'

You'll get some voltage drop but the 211mvp can handle the drop in voltage-and due to the duty cycle of the machine you won't burn up the cord.


You'll need to adjust settings as it may not weld the same as what the door chart reads but we adjust anyway.

You also have consider that the 14g in the manual is for RATED output 150amps.

The only problemo with 12g is that it doesn't fit very well in 6-50 connectors- just so small.

But it was free

[Hardrock40]

This cord is huge compared to 12/3 from Lowes. I mounted them to install on e track, easy to move into the trailer. But the SO is a bit heavy for that even and probably wont get moved around much unless I can cut it down and use it to run the 211.

[Hardrock40]

100' is more than I thought. I might give it a go.
Thanks

[Broccoli1]

This cord is huge compared to 12/3 from Lowes. I mounted them to install on e track, easy to move into the trailer. But the SO is a bit heavy for that even and probably wont get moved around much unless I can cut it down and use it to run the 211.


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Don't use it coiled up like that- run it out or loop it in figure 8's on the ground.

We keep ours at 50' lengths- 100 is just a PIA

[Hardrock40]

Don't use it coiled up like that- run it out or loop it in figure 8's on the ground.

We keep ours at 50' lengths- 100 is just a PIA

OK, good deal. Thanks

[elvis]

Don't use it coiled up like that- run it out or loop it in figure 8's on the ground.

We keep ours at 50' lengths- 100 is just a PIA

I've never heard that on the ac side. So why?

[USMCPOP]

It can get very hot if it's coiled up and you have a heavy load. I've seen pics of cords on reels that melted and caught fire.

[elvis]

Copy that! That would be cool to see, but not in my shop... I know I have gotten things pretty warm when really cranking. I wouldn't want to start a fire. Thanks!

[USMCPOP]

Here is a thread about a reel that melted and burned - an electric heater was the load.

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=201381

[Hardrock40]

Well shorter lengths for me now. Good information. Those cords was meant to hang on the wall of the shop or trailer and only play out what was needed.

I'll have stay aware of anything that will be a heavy load on them and unwrap when that is the case.

I never bought an extension cord on a retractable reel but they sell a lot of them. Surely the instructions don't state to pull the whole thing out.

I bet the cord reel that melted in the pic was way overloaded for a long period and would have probably failed even stretched out, the fact it was on a reel probably greatly reduced the time it took to do so.

Had a waterbed heater cord burn through the wood underneath the mattress and never tripped the breaker nor burn a hole in the rubber water bed.

[Broccoli1]

I've never heard that on the ac side. So why?

The Techy stuff:

Household alternating current sets up a weak magnetic field and collapses it 60 times every second. Setting up and collapsing that magnetic field results in heat. A single cord by itself won’t create enough heat to be a problem. However, if you coil the cord so you have multiple strands running together, constructive interference increases the amount of heat generated. Coil a cord enough times, and run enough current through it and you can create enough heat to ignite household furnishings.

Retractable cords are usually used on tools that are not a constant load but if you were to connect a heater or high wattage worklight you do risk overloading the cord.

For Hardrock- he also wants to pretty much run the 12/3 right at it's limit, if not over iffin' he runs his MM211 on it @ 150amps.

[Broccoli1]

10g and bigger or 12/3 with a heavy jacket and 100' lengths:

When coiling up the cord at the end of the day, stand with your feet slightly apart and pull the cord toward you coiling up the cord between your legs.

For heavier cords you start in the middle of the run and coil up half the cord/cable, flip it over and then pull in the other half of the run.

[Broccoli1]

One more tip:

put some mason line on each end so you can tie up the cord neatly

[Hardrock40]

Good tips, I tried it this evening and it works pretty good.

I also decided to make a cord 65' instead of 100. Haven't tried it out but I think it will work fine.