Miller Matic 252 Slipping

[cope]

Unsure, though the last time I measured a M-25 it was 12', The extra 3' just kills the motor, ie, the use of a knurled roll.

A 4 roll is 15', 2 rolls are 12' as far as I know...

I put a 15' M25 on my MM210, and it feeds fine with the factory rollers. Actually, Miller sells the M25 in 10', 12' and 1`5' models.

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...s/migmatic.php

[cruizer]

I put a 15' M25 on my MM210, and it feeds fine with the factory rollers. Actually, Miller sells the M25 in 10', 12' and 1`5' models.

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...s/migmatic.php

Till ya twist the cord a little or something you have to get up and over, twists and turns. I deal with the industrial guys exclusively. And this is how I fix it. Zero problems. Just a thought.....

[aametalmaster]

Till ya twist the cord a little or something you have to get up and over, twists and turns. I deal with the industrial guys exclusively. And this is how I fix it. Zero problems. Just a thought.....

The worst engineered thing about the MM252 is the downward pointing cable. If you work on a bench or up in the air like i do it always has a kink where it comes from the machine no matter how long the lead is. Miller had a write up a while ago agout the easier to load wire because the of tilt and i think its harder. The MM251's we have are much better. We have close to 50 of each machine all with 15' guns and i would take a 251 any day. Pushing 15' of .045 gas flux core is quite a challenge on some jobs, lots of time wasted fixing wire stuck in the tip or birds nests on the wire in the drive with the 252 the 251's don't seem as bad. Just my rant...Bob

[Synchroman]

My new 252 came with a 15' M-25 gun. I use the .030 rollers with the 194-011 liner (.030/.035) that came with the machine and it feeds properly. I did have an issue when I first fired it up last month. I discovered that the rollers were not lined up. I adjusted them so that the notches were perfectly in line and the problem went away.

I presume that everyone here has seen the test in the manual for proper roller tension on page 22. That's the one where the gun is held near to a piece of wood on a slight angle and the trigger is pulled. The wire should coil up. I tried that and got the coil on the second try.

The downward angle of the gun mount isn't a problem for me. I have welded with a friend's 250 and it has the gun mount that goes into the front of the machine horizontally. Either way would be OK with me.

[kiwi]

Hey Guys,
Thanks for all the replies. I was aware of the "block of wood test" for setting the roller tension and that is exactly what my machine would not do even with the tensioner tightened all the way. I also realized that this would destroy the feed motor. I took the suggestions and started from there. When I adjusted the roller alignment I was able to back off the tension and still get proper feeding against a block of wood. So in this case the alignment was off and you could see that it was quite easily when viewing the roller from the top of the machine. Cruizer, the knurled roller makes sense, I will do some research and post the part number for anyone who might need it. As an aside my MM252 came with a 12' M-25 gun and I replaced it with a 15' Bernard 300 amp gun. Again thanks for the advice.
Nick

[Synchroman]

Hey Guys,
Thanks for all the replies. I was aware of the "block of wood test" for setting the roller tension and that is exactly what my machine would not do even with the tensioner tightened all the way. I also realized that this would destroy the feed motor. I took the suggestions and started from there. When I adjusted the roller alignment I was able to back off the tension and still get proper feeding against a block of wood. So in this case the alignment was off and you could see that it was quite easily when viewing the roller from the top of the machine. Cruizer, the knurled roller makes sense, I will do some research and post the part number for anyone who might need it. As an aside my MM252 came with a 12' M-25 gun and I replaced it with a 15' Bernard 300 amp gun. Again thanks for the advice.
Nick

I'm glad you got working! I sure like mine. I did about a half hour of welding on some brackets yesterday to hold steel tubing for a project that I'm doing. The machine welds beautifully and is a delight to operate. It's a keeper!

[kiwi]

I found the drive roller kit for 0.35 wire the number is 079-606. Please let me know if this is the correct part number. In addition Cruizer said to use just one roller, is it possible to just purchase a sinle knurled roller. If so does anyone know that part number?
Thanks,
Nick

[Synchroman]

I found the drive roller kit for 0.35 wire the number is 079-606. Please let me know if this is the correct part number. In addition Cruizer said to use just one roller, is it possible to just purchase a sinle knurled roller. If so does anyone know that part number?
Thanks,
Nick

Here is a link to Miller Mig machines. Somewhere around page 18 there is a chart showing that P/N 079-606 is a .035 V-knurled for hard shell cored wires. They give numbers for a 22A kit (079-606) and a 24A kit (046-792) but I don't know the difference. The roll kits come with two identical rollers.

Be patient when downloading the link. It takes a while.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...50723672,d.aWc

[BukitCase]

If you really want a single, v-knurled drive roll,

http://miller4less.com/advanced_sear...x=0&search.y=0

But, according to the manual for the 22a and 24a wire feeders (which use same drive rolls as the 252, at least on 2-drive rolls), the knurled rolls are for hard-shelled cored wires.

The wire feeder manual is here

http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o193472ab_mil.pdf

and has much more complete info on this @ page 33 or so... Steve

Oh, the 24A kit is for a FOUR roll feeder. The 22a feeder has 2 rolls, same as the 252.