has anyone had any troubles with their machine recently with heat? also how is it on pipe?
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My tb325 is in the shop with 4 hours on it.
i called miller when it was happening, they told me that it was a fuel something something board, and that a lot of machines where having this issue.
In the auto speed position, it would run crappy for about a minute(after it was hot) then die.
in the run position it would run for about 5 minutes.
also in the run position in mig welded aluminum better( I was repairing a pontoon boat when mine started acting up).
Miller said the machine was starving for fuel at idle, and that's why it didn't weld good in the auto run position.
Hope it all gets fixing.
Btw, I bought mine strictly as a just in case I get canned from my oilfield job.i would have something to fall back onto.thats why I've had it for 5 months and only 4 hours.
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Here is his thread on the overheating. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...hlight=cruizer
The solution to the fuel cap issue is to drill a very small hole into it for a vent.
There were also some issues using the AUX power for a grinder at idle, don't remember what that was about exactly.
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Nope, that cap and vent thing was for the Ranger 305's. The 325s are having problems with Pc1 and the fuel modulator. Big time summer heat issues as well. If your replacing the fuel modulator, its best to reset the engine ecu as well. and not by removing the bat cable, cause that does nothing.
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Originally posted by cruizer View PostIf your replacing the fuel modulator, its best to reset the engine ecu as well. and not by removing the bat cable, cause that does nothing.at home:
2012 325 Trailblazer EFI with Excel power
2007 302 Trailblazer with the Robin SOLD
2008 Suitcase 12RC
Spoolmatic 30A
WC-24
2009 Dynasty 200DX
2000 XMT 304
2008 Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52
Sold:MM130XP
Sold:MM 251
Sold:CST 280
at work:
Invision 350MP
Dynasty 350
Millermatic 350P
Retired:Shopmaster 300 with a HF-251
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right side you'll see a yellow topped plug, jumper the white and black leads together
Turn the start switch from off to run, then run to off 3 times wait 10 seconds before every cycle
Remove the jumper, start the unit and with your hand, force the encoder to idle roughly 1500 rpm. for a further 10 seconds You could remove the encoder arm, but then you have a bunch of measurements. This method works just as well
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Awesome, thanks!at home:
2012 325 Trailblazer EFI with Excel power
2007 302 Trailblazer with the Robin SOLD
2008 Suitcase 12RC
Spoolmatic 30A
WC-24
2009 Dynasty 200DX
2000 XMT 304
2008 Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52
Sold:MM130XP
Sold:MM 251
Sold:CST 280
at work:
Invision 350MP
Dynasty 350
Millermatic 350P
Retired:Shopmaster 300 with a HF-251
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