Dynasty 200/Chem Sharp

[HAWK]

I prefer using a chemical sharpener for tungsten rather than grinding.
On other machines I set up for DCSP and short the tungsten to a piece of copper attached to my work lead and step on the HF foot pedal until the tungsten turns red, then release the pedal and insert tungsten into chem sharpener to achieve desired taper. I have not found a way to do this with the Dynasty. Does it have a short circuit protection circuit or something else I've overlooked. I can start an arc on a piece of scrap copper using HF and then dip the red hot tungsten into the chem sharp. However, this process requires my welding hood as the direct short method has no visible arc.

[ASKANDY]

Hawk,

Try the Lift arc setting or if you can get it to start with the blunt end, go for it. I use the chem sharp when I'm on the road with the Dynasty. All you need to do is get the tungsten to run and get hot. Shorting is not really required, it's just faster.

A-

[PISTOL8]

CHEM SHARP

HAWK OR ANDY , NOT TRYING TO BE DUMB BUT CAN YOU EXPLAIN HOW THE CHEM SHARP WORKS? PISTOL8

[HAWK]

PISTOL8,

Extend your tungsten about 1 3/4" past your torch cup and get it hot. You can short it to the work lead through a piece of copper or start an arc to achieve this. Then dip about 3/4" of the exposed tungsten into the jar of chem sharp. Work it up and down then round in circles. There is a chemical reaction that keeps the tungsten hot. Just keep working it in and out and in circles until the desired taper is achieved. It takes very little practice to achieve the desired results. One jar should give you about 500 sharpenings. Once the end is properly tapered remove from jar and let cool. Brush with a dedicated ss wire brush to clean chem residue. If desired you can blunt the end with sandpaper, etc particularly for inverter use. It's a nice, neat, quick process that produces no dust. The chem sharp lists for about 17 dollars and can be had for 10 - 13 dollars. Try it some time and let me know how you like it. IT MUST BE PRETTY GOOD BECAUSE ANDY USES IT WITH HIS DYNASTY ON THE ROAD. I WONDER WHY HE DOES NOT JUST PUT A DIAMOND WHEEL ON A CORDLESS DRILL. THIS SUGGESTION CAME FROM BERTRAM CHASE.

[ASKANDY]

'cause the chem-sharp doesn't need to stay charged as my cordless always seems to be dead when I need it. Funny how it always works for the rest of my guys!

A-

[HAWK]

I am with you on that one. A definite plus is no dust!

[PISTOL8]

THANKS HAWK & ANDY

THANKS GUYS I'VE GOT TO TRY THIS STUFF.

[HAWK]

PISTOL8,

It's good stuff. Just be sure to use a ss brush and then scotchbrite the tungsten after sharpening. Otherwise, there is a film or residue left behind. This process also seems to eat tungsten quicker. Either way it's time saver in certain situations.

[Flat-out]

So HAWK or others,

What is the latest method you have decided on for heating up the tungsten and not contaminating it? Shorting to copper or using lift-arc and letting it get red hot?

[fuzz8]

Hawk I also thank you for telling how to use Chem Sharp. I'm going to try it myself, I don't like the taste of tungton dust eithser. Show how little I know what does the SP stand for in the DCSP? I am picking up a lot from you guys
Thanks a Lot
Fuzz8

[jeffscarstrucks]

If you haven't tried chem-sharp before you will be amazed. Grinding aside, the quality of the arc is so much better at the low end of the spectrum. Hawk suggested this to me in response to a question I had a few weeks ago and it solved my problem like I could not have imagined. Thanks again to all who have helped me on this forum. JEFF

[HAWK]

Originally posted by fuzz8
Hawk I also thank you for telling how to use Chem Sharp. I'm going to try it myself, I don't like the taste of tungton dust eithser. Show how little I know what does the SP stand for in the DCSP? I am picking up a lot from you guys
Thanks a Lot
Fuzz8

I honestly forget where I heard about Chem Sharp, but I am glad you guys are enjoying it. ANDY once told me he uses a lot when traveling. Most DC GTAW is DCSP: Direct Current Straight Polarity
Basic meaning: electrode is negative
work lead (ground) is positive
also called DCEN DC electrode negative

DCRP: Direct Current Reverse Polarity
Basic meaning: electrode is positive
work lead (ground) is negative
also called DCEP DC elecgtrode positive

On AC GTAW you get both the above. The current wave alternates between the DCRP and DCSP (x) times per second. This is the AC frequency. On a transformer machine it is typically 60HZ. Inverter machines like the Dynasty have a totally adjustable AC frequency output. The higher the cycles/second (HZ: Hertz) the more tightly the arc is focused. The Dynasty also features adjustable electrode balance. The more time the AC stays on the negative side the greater the penetration. The greater time spent on the positive side the more cleaning action is acheived for metals that oxidize easily such as aluminum. On the Dynasty the higher the number (EN or electrode negative (DCSP) the greater the penetration. The lower the number, the greater the cleaning. Many AC machines have a fixed electrode balance.

I know I went farther than you asked. I am going to copy this to a new post because these questions have reared many times before. Have a great day!

[fuzz8]

Hawk
Thanks alot for answering that. When you are new and haven't done much in this line. All these tricks and knowledge on whats what sure does help and make a difference.
Thanks alot
Fuzz8

[orgalmeister]

Hawk, I just got some Chem-Sharp and haven't had the chance to try it yet. Should I have the gas turned on when heating the tungsten? Steve

[HAWK]

Originally posted by orgalmeister
Hawk, I just got some Chem-Sharp and haven't had the chance to try it yet. Should I have the gas turned on when heating the tungsten? Steve

Steve,

I think it keeps the amount of oxidation to a minimum . I always have the argon flowing because my amptrol activates the contactor solenoid and lets the gas "preflow".