No announcement yet.

Splicing anchor chain

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Splicing anchor chain

    I just purchased another 100' of 3/8" anchor chain for my boat which i want to splice in with the chain i currently have. I know they make chain coupler which are basically two halfs which you put together and hammer these tabs (kind of like a rivet) to hold the two halves together. But what about cutting open one link of the chain and tig welding it back shut? Is there any reason why this can't be done? Seems stronger and cleaner then using one of these couplers. How would you guys splice chain? Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    Since you said boat, not ship... im gona assume that its not gona hold the weight that it is made to hold. I would just weld it with 70s6 filler, bevel it well so you get full pen.


    • #3
      How about using a SS rapid link and hit the threads with some red loctight.


      • #4
        Hi, here's a couple of u tube videos that will help.

        Nothing to it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


        • #5
          First post here. Figured I'd reply on something I have some experience.

          I work for a distributor of all sorts of marine products. Primarily, anchors and chain. While I work in the machine shop, we have a few fabricators that have to join chain on a fairly regular basis.

          Basically, you cut the link on one side allowing you to insert the end of the second chain. We use a few techniques, but basically, heavily bevel one side and weld. The opposite side is then beveled and welded. We are after a 100% weld. This is true of all chains we join to preserve the rated strength of the chain. A word of caution. Some smaller chain that may be used through a windlass will require the weld to be aligned on one side of the chain. Some windlass heads can't handle the width change.

          Also, the proper way to join anchor chain without welding is with the use of a chain connection link or a kenter link. The kenter links come in various grades and are largely an import product making them somewhat more economical than the chain connecting link.

          And regarding grades. If it is stud link chain, a stud that is not welded is considered grade 2 or mill, stud welded one side is grade 3, and stud welded both sides will be grade 4 or oil rig.

          And to further muddy the waters, we sometimes wrap weld chain for use in the mining industry as chain curtain for the rock crushers, grizzly bar setups.

          We have stuff from jack chain through 4"links. At hundreds of pounds per link. We even have anchors over 20k pounds for oil rigs. So I apologize if it's a bit TMI!

          Last edited by Fishin2deep4u; 05-07-2013, 09:07 PM.


          • #6
            Good info fishinm thanks


            • #7
              Thanks for the chain tutorial. I guess pictures would be getting greedy. It's never TMI if it is interesting. Thanks again


              • #8
                To answer the original question, if you're confident in your welding abilities then yes it can be done. For what you are describing it will be used for it should be fine.

                I would not recommend this for any lifting chains & if you do weld it together it should be marked somehow so that in the future it does not get used for lifting. Not saying this chain is rated for that in the first place.

                Why wouldn't you spend a couple bucks on a splice link? A lot less time involved & better corrosion resistence than something that has been welded.
                Last edited by MMW; 05-08-2013, 07:59 AM.
                Trailblazer 250g
                22a feeder
                Lincoln ac/dc 225
                Victor O/A
                MM200 black face
                Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
                Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
                Arco roto-phase model M
                Vectrax 7x12 band saw
                Miller spectrum 875
                30a spoolgun w/wc-24
                Syncrowave 250


                • #9
                  I tried finding installing a kinter link up on youtube and only found out how to take one apart. See pictures of them on google.


                  • #10
                    Here's a link that will give you some basic specs.




                    • #11
                      Those links are for big chain, are their links for smaller chain and for making up DOT approved 5/16 load chain?

                      MMW, good idea on marking the link and chain so it won't be used for lifting.


                      • #12
                        No. They are meant for anchor use only. They comply with most testing houses, ABS, LLOYDS, DNV, ect.

                        Load our transport chain is like overhead lifting. They are not meant to be spliced and must be replaced when deformed, damaged or worn.

                        A hook can be added, but I prefer not to join chains this way and some states will flag it every time.

                        Anchor chain can be welded, but as stated above, lifting chain should never be welded. Most of the industry had gone to grade 100 allot and simple hammer locks can be used to join chain and stay compliant. Font forget overhead lifting must have a tag and requires annual inspection/replacement.