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3035 Spool Gun

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  • #16
    Pistol8,

    The setup is 5356 .035 wire with the machine on tap 7. It did not matter where we tried to set the wire speed although we tried several settings between 65 and max. We were welding 1/2" beveled plate to sch 80 pipe. Pull the trigger, melt the tip. That quick nearly every time. The tip info shows a max of 150 amps, yet the machine is capable of higher.

    I don't believe it is the machine since the 7 tap works well with carbon steel using the mig gun, which uses a much thicker tip.

    It's been a few weeks since we've tried it and no plans in the near future to weld thick alum. plate.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Moe
      Pistol8,

      The setup is 5356 .035 wire with the machine on tap 7. It did not matter where we tried to set the wire speed although we tried several settings between 65 and max. We were welding 1/2" beveled plate to sch 80 pipe. Pull the trigger, melt the tip. That quick nearly every time. The tip info shows a max of 150 amps, yet the machine is capable of higher.

      I don't believe it is the machine since the 7 tap works well with carbon steel using the mig gun, which uses a much thicker tip.

      It's been a few weeks since we've tried it and no plans in the near future to weld thick alum. plate.
      Moe

      150 amps is the guns 60% duty cycle rating which means that the gun is capable of being used at higher amperages then 150 amps at a lower duty cycle. Now as far as your burn back problem goes. How much stickout are you holding? You should be around 3/4" for spray arcing aluminum. If your stickout is to close the wire will burn back. The door chart on my MM 210 shows 7 and 80 for 3/8" aluminum when using 4043 filler wire. Since 5356 burns off quicker you need a wire speed setting higher then 80. Also, you might think about applying up to a 250 degree preheat on the material thickness that you were welding. Aluminum is a major heat sink and because of this the starts of a MIG weld on thicker sections of aluminum can actually have a total lack of fusion.Preheating helps eliminate this problem.

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      • #18
        hot tips(no pun intended moe)

        MOE ,DAN BRINGS UP ANOTHER GOOD POINT STICKOUT ON THE SPOOLGUN TENDS TO BE LONGER ON ALL MATERIALS. BUT THE SPOOLGUN TIPS ARE BURNING UP AT THE TIP I ASSUME,OR ARE THEY MELTING IN AT THE BASE? ARE THESE THE TAPERED KNURLED TIPS? I'M REALLY INTRESTED IN THIS PROBLEM SINCE I,M ABOUT TO WELD SOME 1/2" PLATE TO SOME 2" ROUND SCH 40 FOR PUSH BUMPERS ON OUR GOLF CARTS. I'M GOING TO SEE IF I CAN DUPLIUCATE YOUR PROBLEM THIS EVENING WHEN I GET HOME IF I CAN WE'LL SEE WHAT FIXS IT. I'LL LET YOU KNOW LATER TONIGHT. PISTOL 8



        ALSO ARE THE 210 MACHINES CARD CONTROLED ON THEIR TAPS? ANDY SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP US ON THAT OR MAYBE ROCK WOULD KNOW. COULD BE THE CARDS CAUSING A PROBLEM ON TAP#7. PISTOL8

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        • #19
          I believe we were ok with the stickout. The tips are the tapered type, and the package the tips come in say that they are rated for 150 amps.

          They melted from the tip of the tip on down. Some worse than others.

          Let me know how your push bumbers come out and the exact setting you used. I'll duplicate it at home and see if I can get those results...

          Like I said before, we beveled the plate and worked it out at using the 6 tap and a slowed the hand down a bit. The welds were not that pretty, but there was good fusion and I haven't pulled one off yet. And I'm subjecting the padeyes to considerable force on this boat.

          Thanks again to everyone who chimed in on this topic.

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          • #20
            BURNT TIPS

            OK MOE I DID GET TO BURN UP A FEW TIPS. I WAS ABLE TO GET SOME INPUT FROM MY MILLER DEALER. HE HAS A PIECE OF EQUIPMENT THAT TESTS OUTPUT AMPS ON EACH TAP. EVERY MACHINE WE TESTED ON #7 TAP PUT OUT 200 PLUS AMPS. THATS 50 MORE AMPS THAN THE TIPS CAN HANDLE COMFORTABLY. THATS WHAT HE SAYS. I WELDED THE BUMPERS AND PUSH PLATES AT #7 AND WIRE FEED OF 85 OR 86 GIVE OR TAKE BECAUSE THATS WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE ON MY MACHINE. I HAD PROBLEMS WHEN I LET THE ARGON PRESSURE DROP BELOW 35. IT SEEMS THAT 45CFM WAS THE BEST SETTING BUT BELOW 35 COST ME A TIP EVERYTIME!! IT IS ALMOST LIKE TRYING TO WELD WITH NO GAS OR A 40MPH HEAD WIND. UPED THE CFMS AND NO MORE BURNT TIPS. THAT SAID, I CAME UP WITH THE SAME RESULTS AS YOU A MUCH BETTER LOOKING WELD AND GOOD PENATRATION ON TAP #6 AND WE TRYED TO PULL THE PLATES OFF THE BUMPERS AND COULD NOT(WITHOUT DESTROYING THE GOLF CARTS).HOPE THIS HELPS MOE. YOU MIGHT SEE YOUR DEALER AND SEE WHAT YOUR #7 TAP IS PUTTING OUT. PISTOL8

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            • #21
              Thanks for that info.

              I recently replaced the "stock" factory (psi) regulator on the argon bottle with a high output (flow metered) ball regulator. I find that I get a MUCH better purge and MUCH cleaner welds with a higher flow. I'll try a higher flow on the 7 tap this weekend when I have some spare time and see how it works on the tips. Note: I now have over 30 tips on hand, so I'll try to burn up a few finding the machine's "sweet spot" on thicker material.

              By the way, the welds I made on my boat see the force created from an aircraft starter powered drum winch, which lifts over 1500 lbs dead weight out of the water. So far they are holding up great.

              Note, my first try at welding these padeyes was done on the 5 tap and 65 wire speed. ZERO fusion!!! The welds popped off the pipe like they were attached with cheap glue.. Not good!

              An pre-heating does help considerably on the 6 tap.

              Thanks again....

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