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waterpump for a dialarc 350

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  • waterpump for a dialarc 350

    I purchased this machine used from a guy that was using it in his garage. He was just running the water from his sink faucet into the welder and letting the return run down the driveway. I initially used a flowjet pulse type pump for about 3 years attached to a water container out of a Falcon corporate jet. It finally gave up after multiple patch jobs. When I took it to the local flowjet retailer, it was a discontinued model. They were unable to supply me with a pump because I had no specifications. To replace that pump I used a GM fuel injection pump out of a Corvette. That worked for about a year and then it pitched also. I don't think those fuel pumps like pumping water (too heavy for them I think). Lately I've been running Kawasaki Vulcan fuel injection pumps, but their life span isn't the greatest but like all the other pumps I've been running, they are free. My question is: what are the specs for the water pump needed to keep this welder in operation? The price of the usual cooling system is more than I would like to spend. I don't use this welder that much, probably not more than 5~10 minutes at a time. I've been sniffing around the McMaster-Carr website but I don't know what kind of pump I need, hate to waste money on a pump that will blow up soon.
    Thanks for your help.

  • #2
    A simple sump pump like those used in parts washers will work just fine. You should not need much pressure, just flow. If you use tig torch antifreeze instead of water the lubricity of the coolant will make the pumps you where using last longer. You shouldn't used automotive antifreeze because it is much more conductive and will "bleed" the high-freq to ground.(I found out the hard way.)
    Happy welding!
    Welding is hot and it's the coolest job you'll ever have.


    • #3
      I agree with weldteacher on the sump pump. I've found that Grainger typcially has better prices on these pumps. I have a small sump that I used for pumping out photographic darkroom chemicals. It has lasted for years with out fail. Miller has a good tig torch antifreeze available.


      • #4
        You can also find those pumps in the Northern Tool and Equipment catalog and web site. They are always less expencive than Grainger.
        Welding is hot and it's the coolest job you'll ever have.


        • #5

          I used a fountain display type pump from Grainger. It was about $35,but when I switched to a HW20 torch with smaller lines it did'nt
          have enough pressure.I too used several fuel injection pumps but they did'nt last long. I ended up with a carbonator pump from a soft drink setup,it has an adjustable pressure regulator built in and works great.

          What sort of problem did you have with auto antifreeze?I have used it for years; will there be a subtle degradation of arc quality or a catastrophic short?I will switch to the miller stuff,but I'll bet not one welding store will have it in my town.



          • #6
            Thank you for your speedy replys. I have never heard of Tig Antifreeze but I will be looking into it now. I was considering using some water soluble oil also to keep the pumps from corroding but was concerned about adding more weight to the liquid. One more question: They offer those parts washer pumps in different outputs and HP ratings and how high they will pump. Any suggestions on which one I should get? At McMaster-Carr the parts washers pumps are listed as 1/150hp, 1/125hp and 1/40 hp. The G.P.M. are listed as 3.4, 2.8, and 5.0. The shutoff is listed as 7~11ft for the 1/40hp pump.
            One other question as long as I have your attention. This machine doesn't hold a stable arc in the low range (AC or DC) unless you hold the pedal down about 90% of max. Makes welding the thin stuff hard as that usually blows a nice hole in the metal. The arc scatters like it has a bad ground until you put the pedal down. This something that's common on this machine or do I have a problem? Thank again.


            • #7
              The problem with automotive antifreeze is it is conductive. It tends to bleed the high frequency voltage from the torch to ground. So you may have hard arc starts. I have also used it for years at high currents. But, I've often feared the it would clog up the tiny lines in the torch head. If anyone is using straight water, distilled is the best, because, it is the least conductive.

              RPM's suggestion on the carbonator pump is the best one as they are a positive pressure(240psi max)vane pump. The motor size that drives my Bernard cooler(with carbonator pump) is approximately 1/4hp which also spins the fan. You will invest $200+ to build this type of pump but it'll be a copy of the standard. If cash is an issue, the bigger the better on the parts washer pumps. Just be sure you know that there is flow thru the torch before welding with it.
              Now your stable arc problem. First, the Dialarc simply does not like to provide current under 30amps.
              I have to assume that you preset the amperage on the panel of the machine to just above the amps needed to weld the part. Right? If so you may already know that amps knob on the machine acts as a limiter within the travel of the peddal. With that said, always size the tungsten to the work. The thinner the metal the smaller the tungsten. Also on thin aluminum I will sharpen the tungsten, just let it ball back to where it wants to. Arc wondering can also be created be the way that you sharpen the tungsten. Always sharpen the tip with tungsten pointed up not horizontally. The grind lines should follow the length of the tungsten electrode not go a round it. And, use a fine grit wheel.
              Best to all! Kevin.
              Welding is hot and it's the coolest job you'll ever have.


              • #8
                This may sound odd, but here it is. Is there any reason I can't weld ferrous metal (steel-etc) with AC with the HF on? I have noticed that this machine will hold a better arc in the low range with the current set on ACHF or DCSP with the HF on. I've had people tell me that heat is heat and doesn't matter, but I would like to hear from somebody else on the subject. Is there a better type of tungsten to help the lower current setting? I use an .040 sharpened as you recommended except that I sharpen it on a medium grit wheel. Will that make much difference switching to a fine wheel? On a different note, when I worked on airplanes the company weldor used a gas lens cup that was shaped like half a sphere (looked like an umbrella opened up). The guy was a grumpy old curmudgeon and if you asked him any technical questions he figured you were after his job. That being said, he is the best weldor and fabricator I've ever seen to date. Any ideas on where I could get one of those? Last question: I haven't found anybody yet that has that tig antifreeze that you spoke of. Does Miller or Lincoln or ? sell that product? The couple of welding supply houses I called had no idea what I was talking about. Thanks again weldteacher, you're a warehouse of information.


                • #9

                  Sorry for the caps bad habit of typing and not looking at the screen.

                  About the water pump Procon was used by many water circulator container folks for years..........And they are still in business. They manufacturer a pump for this process.............Be safe

                  Rock.... [email protected]


                  • #10
                    Sounds like after all this experimenting, you all could have bought a dedicated MILLER Coolmate3 for around $500. I've seen used ones for $200-$300.


                    We did all the engineering for you already