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Trailblazer 250g help

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  • thomas1
    replied
    cruizer, I would just like to say thank you, for trying to help me get this thing going. I'm sorry for all the stupid questions and I appreciate you taking the time to answer them over and over.

    Should I order anything else (156289, 173069, 035704, 130515, 097353) while I'm at it?

    I will report back after the new board is installed.

    Leave a comment:


  • thomas1
    replied
    Originally posted by cruizer View Post
    Yes, inexpensive board like I mentioned, why screw around with the old one?
    Because buying a board will nearly double what I have invested in the machine? By attempting to replace the components on the old board I'm out like $3, it would have been great if it worked, but I think the risk was worth it.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    Yes, inexpensive board like I mentioned, why screw around with the old one?

    Leave a comment:


  • walker
    replied
    Board is $228 at miller 4 less. http://miller4less.com/advanced_sear...x=0&search.y=0

    Leave a comment:


  • thomas1
    replied
    What's the best source for boards? Am I better off to replace other components at the same time?

    Thank you.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    Well of course its a neutral bond circuit,ie the neutral and ground are bonded to the frame. Again no field board no go go power....

    Leave a comment:


  • thomas1
    replied
    Resistor and cap replaced on the board, no change. Surprise.

    The man at Miller mentioned the field needing to be recharged as this particular machine could lose the charge if it had sat for an extended period. He said to apply 12v to the capacitor with the unit running. I did that by running jumper wires from the battery terminals to the cap. I noticed no change after doing so.

    I did notice that all of the terminals of the receptacles have continuity to ground, any thoughts on this?

    Any advice on the next steps to take? I will try giving Miller a call again on Monday.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    You could try, but the board isn't all that expensive. And it won't work anyways as a linear would be damaged as well. Resistors generally don't up and blow without a direct reason. and that would be something in the control of that circuit.

    Leave a comment:


  • thomas1
    replied
    Originally posted by cruizer View Post
    No field board, no go go power. It turns into a #159150, might want to replace it before you continue on. Why it blew is anyones guess, likely though its just old age and conditions where the machine was kept.
    I thought the man at Miller told me that board controlled the DC circuit and would not affect the AC output. Maybe I misunderstood?

    Are you saying the current part number for the board is 159150?

    Any reason not to attempt to fit a new resistor and cap to my existing board? Can't hurt it any more, correct?

    Thanks for your input.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    No field board, no go go power. It turns into a #159150, might want to replace it before you continue on. Why it blew is anyones guess, likely though its just old age and conditions where the machine was kept.

    Leave a comment:


  • thomas1
    replied
    I spoke with Miller, their first suggestion was flashing the cap to re-energize the exciter field (I think that's correct).

    I tried flashing the cap by putting battery voltage to the capacitor while the machine was running, per their suggestion, no change.

    Would having the brushes improperly adjusted contribute to the no power problem? Looking through the tech manual the brass sleeves should be 3/32" off of the slip rings, I don't think mine are that close, I will have to readjust them next session.
    Last edited by thomas1; 03-14-2013, 09:33 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • welding insp.48
    replied
    tuff one

    they are good machines. looks like you have a disconnect somewere? wish i could tell you more,but sometimes it's hard to figure?
    i will say this always look for someting simple. we all look for something hard to fine and normally it's simple,like broken wire or along that line.

    Leave a comment:


  • thomas1
    replied
    On the board, C10 and R23 seem to have released their magic smoke. Definitely R23, C10 may have just had its' jacket cooked in the process.







    1. Could that be the cause of my generator/welder issues?
    2. What would have caused those components to fry?
    3. Any point in trying to solder new resistors to the board or better to just buy a new one?
    4. Am I even remotely on the right path?

    Leave a comment:


  • thomas1
    replied
    Originally posted by cruizer View Post
    Unless your a tech, its unlikely that Miller is going to get you a tech manual.
    Fair enough, I guess I'll find out for sure on Monday.

    Any advice on the other issues? From searching the older posts, you seem to be the go to guy for these questions.

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    Originally posted by thomas1 View Post
    Thank you, I think that's for an earlier machine, but I think I got the correct one. That's the owner's manual, I think I need to call Miller for the tech manual.
    Unless your a tech, its unlikely that Miller is going to get you a tech manual.

    Leave a comment:

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