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Syncrowave SD180 - machine reset/AC

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  • Syncrowave SD180 - machine reset/AC

    Got my welder two weeks ago and everything worked just fine. Ran some stick to build a weld table and welded some steel and aluminum (TIG). Tried to weld some more aluminum today, but the machine insisted on reseting itself after about 10 minutes of welding. Machine never got warm enough to have the fan turn on. The arc and gas flow would stop after 10 - 30 seconds and the machine would shut off and come back on, as if I have powered up the machine using the switch. Checked the wiring all the way back to the box, line voltage is 240, and plugs are all new and checked out find. The machine will TIG weld set at DC, but will not run more than 10 - 30 seconds set at AC.

    Any body got any suggestions?

    I would hate to think that need to take it in for service already.

    Thanks for any help....

  • #2
    WOLFMAN........ HAVE YOU GOT YOUR PROBLEM RESOLVED YET......... SORRY I'VE BEEN ON VACATION..... WHEN YOU SAY RESET YOUR TALKING ABOUT STARTING THEN STOPPING IS THAT CORRECT......... WILL IT DO DC TIG AND DO THE SAME THING OR IS THIS APPLICATION OK......... CERTAINLY SHOULD NOT NEED TO VISIT A SERVICE STATION JUST YET......... IF WERE STILL HAVEING A PROBLEM PLEASE CONTACT MYSELF VIA E-MAIL OR I WILL HAVE DAVE FISHER CONTACT YOU HERE FOR SERVICE........ BE SAFE AND HANG IN THERE WE CAN HELP YOU HERE...............ROCK.............
    [email protected]
    ROCK

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    • #3
      When the machine "RESETS", its as if you turned off the power using the switch on the welder and turned it back on. It will do DC TIG as long as I want and it will do AC stick as well. The AC TIG problem is inconsistant, in that it will "RESET" as soon as I press down on the pedal or it may run for a minute or so before it "RESETS" and the amount of amps doesn't seem to make any difference. I pulled the covers of the machine to look for something obvious, but it looked just fine except for a little dust. I did do a bunch of grinding on some rusty plate when building the weld table, but there didn't seem to be much of that if any in the machine. How sensitive is the spark-gap to contamination or an effectively smaller gap do to some debris?

      Thanks for your time.

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      • #4
        WO1FM4N.......... Dave (from Tig) and I were just talking about your delima here. I think if you call 920-954-3620 and speak to Jeff or Robin either of them should be able to help......... Hey tell them Rock and Dave have been talking about your problem. These folks will be able to assist........... If they tell you Rock and Dave (from
        tig) are the problem just laugh.............Let us know what they come up with.............Rock..........

        [email protected]
        ROCK

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        • #5
          ROCK,

          Talked to Jeff at the TIG SERVICE GROUP at MILLER ELECTRIC about my problem. He gave me numbers for a couple of places that could provide service. He said it could be the board or some other things, but the only way to tell, would be to take it in. I wasn't ready to throw in the towel just yet. I asked about the effect of "Spark-Gap" on HF and he said, .008" is enough gap, but it would reduce the HF energy some. Today I set the "Spark-Gap" to .008" and fired up the welder. Guess what, the welder works great, no reseting and it starts an arc just fine. One added benefit, the lites don't flicker anymore like they did when I was having trouble.

          Keep you posted....

          KURT

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