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Blowing TIG hoses

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  • metalslayer
    started a topic Blowing TIG hoses

    Blowing TIG hoses

    Anyone have issues with their TIG powerlead blowing holes near the machine, spewing coolant everywhere? Just breached my fourth hose in two weeks, no idea whats going on. Cleaned the coolant strainer, going to pull the whole reseviour/ radiator today to clean, troubleshoot. Been running pretty high amperage lately but never had a problem with it before. Syncrowave 250DX/CK200/CK300
    Not stoked! Any help will be much appreciated, thanks.

  • MATC Mike
    replied
    My 250 DX I have in my shop was developing leaks with the rubber hoses that came with the machine. When I purchased a replacement hose, I bought the vinyl hose instead of rubber and that cured the problem for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • metalslayer
    replied
    Originally posted by shovelon View Post
    It's been so long, I really can't answer that.
    Cheers, thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • shovelon
    replied
    Originally posted by metalslayer View Post
    Nice, thanks. Any high-heat resistant properties to the rubber hose as opposesd to the vinyl?
    It's been so long, I really can't answer that.

    Leave a comment:


  • metalslayer
    replied
    Originally posted by shovelon View Post
    I use the rubber hoses with the braided sheath. I love them and is worth running because of the flexibility. But beware, the braided sheath breaks down right where they come out of the torch handle from rubbing. I beef them up with fray-check or shoe-goo.
    Nice, thanks. Any high-heat resistant properties to the rubber hose as opposesd to the vinyl?

    Leave a comment:


  • shovelon
    replied
    Originally posted by metalslayer View Post
    Anyone have experience with using a 'braided rubber' power lead? I think I've got my flow issues worked out, but I'm still running pretty high heat (310A) and don't want to buy anymore vinyl hoses. Seems the braided rubber may be a bit tougher... or is there something better?

    Also, the clear housing for the coolant strainer recently turned milky white. I'm at a loss...? Anyone? Only thing I changed was going from Low-Conductive coolant to Distilled water. Weird.

    Thanks for everyones help.
    I use the rubber hoses with the braided sheath. I love them and is worth running because of the flexibility. But beware, the braided sheath breaks down right where they come out of the torch handle from rubbing. I beef them up with fray-check or shoe-goo.

    Leave a comment:


  • metalslayer
    replied
    Anyone have experience with using a 'braided rubber' power lead? I think I've got my flow issues worked out, but I'm still running pretty high heat (310A) and don't want to buy anymore vinyl hoses. Seems the braided rubber may be a bit tougher... or is there something better?

    Also, the clear housing for the coolant strainer recently turned milky white. I'm at a loss...? Anyone? Only thing I changed was going from Low-Conductive coolant to Distilled water. Weird.

    Thanks for everyones help.

    Leave a comment:


  • metalslayer
    replied
    Originally posted by mikesystem View Post
    I could not see why it would blow if it was backwards flow is flow right ? As long as it don't stop ? Sorry to jack your thread
    No worries!

    Leave a comment:


  • metalslayer
    replied
    Originally posted by shovelon View Post
    You could unscrew the big power cable nut at the machine, and turn on.

    The only way to confirm if the pump motor is overheating is to watch for it. Are there fan louvers to tape strands of paper over?
    Think I've got it figured out, flushed the whole system multiple times. Lots of algae and flakes of crusty hose fittings that plug into the top of the reseviour. Everything seems to be flowing normally now. Dave @ Miller tech was a big help.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    Well, the idea is to cool the head first and arc cable second. If you try to cool the arc cable first, the water has to sit there get super heated before it gets to the torch head due the resistance of the water entering the cable with the current carrying cable. Where as if the cables are connected right, the return pressure is at the torch head.

    Leave a comment:


  • mikesystem
    replied
    Blowing TIG hoses

    Jrscgsr has that happened to your coolmate ? When I first hooked mine up I did the same thing as jrscgsr said with return line and see what happens should work like a dream on the other hand I have seen some pretty dirty coolent before I had melted one line my self and

    Leave a comment:


  • jrscgsr
    replied
    Unhook the return at the cooler and turn it on with the return held over the refill on the cooler. If its slow something is restricting flow. I've had coolmate 4's oxidize the copper heat sinc tubing inside and flake off which reduced flow considerably, have also had algae build up do the same thing

    Leave a comment:


  • mikesystem
    replied
    Blowing TIG hoses

    I could not see why it would blow if it was backwards flow is flow right ? As long as it don't stop ? Sorry to jack your thread

    Leave a comment:


  • shovelon
    replied
    Originally posted by cruizer View Post
    That or you have them hooked up backwards which is more likely. Both waters have the same thread, though one is high pressure and one is drain. If you get em backwards. the hoses will blow...
    I always wondered about that.

    Why would they blow?

    Leave a comment:


  • shovelon
    replied
    Originally posted by metalslayer View Post
    How would you suggest I check the flow, unplug the return and turn the machine on? Not sure..
    And how can I confirm the motor is over heating?
    Thanks.
    You could unscrew the big power cable nut at the machine, and turn on.

    The only way to confirm if the pump motor is overheating is to watch for it. Are there fan louvers to tape strands of paper over?

    Leave a comment:

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