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synchrowave 300 problem

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  • synchrowave 300 problem

    It goes (seemingly) full blast when I start a weld, intermittently. Doesn't matter where the amp control is, whether starting amperage is engaged or not, whether or not I'm in high or low range. I've cycled every switch on the machine to no avail. It does only seem to happen when the machine has been on a while (even though the duty cycle is EXTREMELY low - as I spend a lot of time repositioning and such).

    Any techies here? Where do I start troubleshooting this problem? I have the manual, the troubleshooting section doesn't address any problem of this sort, and I will print out the schematic as soon as I can in hopes of at least isolating the control board that is presumably causing this problem.

    The pedal has been verified to work alright and it doesn't matter whether or not I'm in remote or panel...

    Thanks in advance!


  • #2
    I am betting on trouble in the Hall amplifier circuitry...


    • #3
      Cool, thanks, I'll start looking there. I remember seeing a circuit diagram for a Hall amplifier.

      I just tried it again after letting it cool down. It seems to be related to how long the unit is actually on, not what the duty cycle is for the welding period. I'm welding 1/8 wall stainless tubing set at about 130 amps with the pedal about half throttle for what it's worth.

      It starts to happen intermittently at about 30 mins and quickly it's where it won't strike a normal arc at all (within a few minutes of the first event). It will happen the first time in the middle of a bead (I'm only doing beads 2" long at most as it's 2" square tubing). I haven't had it go full bore and then settle down ever (once it happens once, I grab a scrap and start changing things to see if I can find a correlation).

      When it goes "full bore" it's as if I just rapidly pressed the pedal full down but to a setting higher than what I have selected. It isn't a huge "flash" but rather a rapid advance towards it's max capacity if that makes any sense. Works GREAT for spot welding!

      Thanks for the quick reply, I'll still keep monitoring and if I figure it out before getting a definitive answer here, I'll let ya'll know.



      • #4
        When a Hall goes bad, its generally ALWAYS bad, I'd more think that it's connection to the circuit board has corroded. merely pull and reinsert the nolex plugs


        • #5
          Novice here, but I have had the same problem intermittedly where I've had no current control and it's been on full. What I've done is to unplug and simply re-plug the connector to the hall effect sensor. This works but I have had repeated events so still need to root cause.