Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Guide me to bumping technique.

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • steph
    started a topic Guide me to bumping technique.

    Guide me to bumping technique.

    Hi all,
    Tried the bumping tech yesterday, the material is a broken car velg, anodized like a mirror, thickness about 5-6mm. I used Syncrowave 250DX, the settings are: 8LPM 100% Argon, 3/32 1,5% Lant tung, gas lens with cup #6, WP18, 150Amps, balance at 4 (balanced?), wiped with thinner (got no acetone here). I can get a puddle in about 2-3secs, it's a clean puddle.
    The problem is when I dab the filler (4043) for the second time. The puddle will soon contaminated (looks skinny). No problem when first time dab. The cleaning area not seen.
    The question is what did I do wrong? Is it normal not to have a cleaning area when bumping the anodized? Maybe the cup was to small? Amp not hi enough?
    Any information and suggestion is greatly appreciated. Thank you all in advance.

  • steph
    replied
    Ok, a little strange way.. here's the link to the pict..

    http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto...39865363_n.jpg

    dont know it'll work or not.

    Still wait for your opinions and suggestion.

    Thank you,
    Steph.

    Leave a comment:


  • FusionKing
    replied
    You should be able to tell pretty easily by the way the burning heat effects it. If it is cast....it doesnt mean crap anyways.
    Burnt black edges would indicate clear coat to me.
    Post some pics so we can actually see something. PLEASE

    Leave a comment:


  • steph
    replied
    Thanks Andrew and FusionKing, do you guys have any tricks to know whether it is a clear coat or anodized, because dont know how. I just scrape it with knife and it wont peeled so i called it anodized.

    Leave a comment:


  • FusionKing
    replied
    I agree....poor choice for bumping technique practice. Way too thick. Not gonna get much learned from welding a big casting. Most wheels I have seen here are clear coated over machining/polish. Could easily be mistaken for anodize. Been fixing wheels for many years and don't recall any as anodize. Doesn't mean they aren't out there. Down under may be different.
    Instead, get a big sledge and bust off a big chunk
    Then practice your cast welding instead Just my opinion. Peace

    Leave a comment:


  • awill4x4
    replied
    When Sundown111 explained the process he said not to use a foot pedal but a momentary switch on the gun.
    No upslope or downslope, instant maximum heat to move the anodising and form a weld pool, dab the filler and stop then repeat till the weld was done.
    I think your material thickness is going to be your problem as you can't get a weld pool forming instantly and at 200 amps you will still be too cold to get it started.
    I also think that wheels are one thing you don't want to be using the bump weld technique for.
    Bump weld is fine certain structures but in my opinion wheels need to have the anodising mechanically removed around the area to be welded and then weld it from there.
    Regards Andrew from Oz.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gaby
    replied
    Steph i am doing this on my phone and I cant send pic's. I will get on my lap top and try to send you some.

    Leave a comment:


  • steph
    replied
    I used 2% Lant, dont have pure in stock. I'll try it next time. Thanks Gaby.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gaby
    replied
    Steph try a pure tungston "green " 3/32 that will give you a wider bead. I use that time to time when needed to give a wide bead. Call ETECH i miami and they have every thing you need to weld anodized aluminum. Paint your welds with there paint it looks really good. Give them a call they are great there.

    Leave a comment:


  • steph
    replied
    @Gaby: I can lay beads now with Sync250DX but still not perfect, the beads looks cold at its edge. I think Sync250DX can do that okay, it's just me don't have enough skill.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gaby
    replied
    Did you ever get the weld done with the 250 synchrowave?

    Leave a comment:


  • steph
    replied
    Ok, changed the setting: cup #8 (before was #6), flow 15LPM, amps 200, balance at 6, postflow 15secs, get better result,I can lay several beads (before only 1bead). But the weld look cold. Did you guys after getting it puddled move your torch arround to get bigger puddle? The puddle didnt flow easily.
    Crrection: the wheel is 8mm thick.
    Took a pic but dont know how to upload. Im using windows phone, Lumia900 Nokia.
    Last edited by steph; 10-26-2012, 09:21 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • steph
    replied
    Hi Gaby, where's the pic?

    Leave a comment:


  • Gaby
    replied
    Steph try 5356 rod they work better on anodized aluminum or contaminated aluminum. Here is a pix of o t-top i just did with 5356 rods, all anodized

    Leave a comment:


  • steph
    replied
    @FusionKing: yes, I only practice, this is not a real weld. The wheel was badly broke and the owner has left it for more than 3 years in my shop, so I count it as a scrape and use it for practice. Without adding filler rod there's no contamination. The contamination only appears on second, third, and the next dab. I'll try upload a pic when I have free time.

    @Gaby: thank you, I'll try higher amps and bigger (#8) cup. #8 is the biggest I have.

    @Go2building: yes, it's a pain thinner. Is denatured alcohol is 70% alcohol they used in medical/hospital??

    @Mcostello:Few minutes before I weld the anodized, I tried to weld a cast alum, it's a 3" elbow with no problem. Laid a ..maybe 3" long beads. With the same thinner wipe and no stainless brushed. Or something I've missed here??

    Thank you guys.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X