Andy,
I will be helping a friend install a roll cage in his 1993 Mustang coupe. We have a few questions about the welding of the cage (mild steel). We will be using .030” ER70-S6 and an AutoArc (Miller) 170 Amp machine.
As this is a coupe, there will be no easy way to reinstall the headliner if it is removed before welding. How can we protect the headliner while leaving it in the car during welding? I have heard of people using wet cardboard and aluminum sheets.
I want the beads to look nice. I’m sure I’ll be able to weld attractive beads in this amperage range, but I’m a little worried that the bead may start a little high and rope like before the joint gets hot. Would it be worthwhile to preheat the joint with a propane torch, and how warm should we get it?
The roll cage is a factory built/notched unit. After hours of work, it fits well and can hardly be seen from out side the car. The only problem is how do I weld in the tight areas (near the windshield and where the rear bars attach to the main hoop)? The only option we see is hole-sawing holes into the floor, so we can drop the cage 3”-5”. Any other tips you can offer?
Regards,
Gus
I will be helping a friend install a roll cage in his 1993 Mustang coupe. We have a few questions about the welding of the cage (mild steel). We will be using .030” ER70-S6 and an AutoArc (Miller) 170 Amp machine.
As this is a coupe, there will be no easy way to reinstall the headliner if it is removed before welding. How can we protect the headliner while leaving it in the car during welding? I have heard of people using wet cardboard and aluminum sheets.
I want the beads to look nice. I’m sure I’ll be able to weld attractive beads in this amperage range, but I’m a little worried that the bead may start a little high and rope like before the joint gets hot. Would it be worthwhile to preheat the joint with a propane torch, and how warm should we get it?
The roll cage is a factory built/notched unit. After hours of work, it fits well and can hardly be seen from out side the car. The only problem is how do I weld in the tight areas (near the windshield and where the rear bars attach to the main hoop)? The only option we see is hole-sawing holes into the floor, so we can drop the cage 3”-5”. Any other tips you can offer?
Regards,
Gus
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